[Oletrucks] RUST

[Gale Gorman]

There are lots of rust removers on the market. One I found to work well is the gel from Eastwood. You might try filling the gap with this acid, let it set a while, and then rinse with water. It will leave a phosphorous coating that will resist rust for months with no coating. Then you can use POR15 or just about any good primer. I haven't used POR15 so I prefer a good primer and I don't think it will rust again in your lifetime.

I've tried a few other acid products that require you submerge the rusty part or somehow keep it wet for an extended period. Evapo-Rust is one of these and it just doesn't seem practical for use on stuff you can't readily dip. The gel keeps the rust wet while the acid does its work. Naval Jelly is a similar product and it's readily available in the paint section of any Home Depot or Ace Hardware. Probably an expensive choice since it's only sold in small bottles. The gel from Eastwood comes in gallon jugs and works better.

I have a heavily rusted frame on a '67 that I'll use mechanical means to get rid of the rust and then follow up with the gel just to get it bright. Mechanical for me is a pneumatic needle scaler and a wire brush on a grinder. The rusted out body parts will just get new panels welded in.
-- 
Gale Gorman
Houston

On Sep 4, 2010, at 6:27 PM, Bob Keeland wrote:

The body of an AD pickup has inner and outer sheetmetal, especially for the
upper portions of the cab. Without dipping the cab in a type of bath, how do
you eliminate the rust in between the two layers of sheetmetal? Even a sand
blaster would be difficult to get into that area. I can use POR15 after I've
knocked off the loose rust.
BobK
51 AD 3100
54 AD 3600 (in pieces)
Arnaudville, LA
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