[Shop-talk] Water heater quality

old dirtbeard dirtbeard at pacbell.net
Fri Dec 13 07:11:04 MST 2013


Hi Wayne,

Once you have it out and replace it, I wrap the threads in pipe
tape so it comes out easy the next time, but that will not help on the first
removal.

I don't recall having that much trouble breaking it loose the first
time, though, I do have a large 3/4" breaker bar that provides a good deal of
leverage.  I am surprised that a impact wrench wouldn't break it loose.  Can
you get a couple extra lengths of air hose to reach it, or borrow a portable
compressor?  

I would have to believe that a 1/2" impact wrench on a portable
compressor would back it out easily, or get a long 3/4" drive breaker bar, or
use a piece of galv. or iron water pipe over the handle of your current
breaker bar to increase your torque. 

Again, though, I am a little surprised
that it is so tight/frozen...
 
best,

doug

________________________________
From: w <wc5813 at gmail.com>
To: shop-talk at autox.team.net 
Sent: Thursday,
December 12, 2013 8:28 PM
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Water heater quality
 

On
12/12/2013 10:03 PM, old dirtbeard wrote:
> More important than the price or
the warranty on the heater is that
> you need to change out the sacrificial
anode rod every five years if you do
> not soften your water, and every three
years if you have a water softener.

Doug, any suggestions on how to unscrew
stubborn rods? Need to swap out the ones at my Mom's and my own. 1 1/16"
socket seems pretty standard for them. Mom's won't budge with an 18" breaker
bar on it. No compressed air; I filled my little portable tank and tried the
1/2" impact on it, but couldn't get enough run time to do any good.

-Wayne
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