From 1789alpine at gmail.com Sun Oct 5 08:52:04 2025 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2025 10:52:04 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld Message-ID: My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8004.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80577 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8005.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 57146 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? Thanks, PaG, aka Jim From shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org Sun Oct 5 18:40:16 2025 From: shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org (Ian McFetridge) Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2025 20:40:16 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: You're probably right that they were solvent welded, that's fairly common with acrylic pieces (what I see my wife's clips appear to be). Maybe buy a couple test clips that appear to be there same material for testing as solvent welding can deform really if not done in just there right way. Here's there AI scoop on welding the two plastics I see clips are mostly made from: Both cellulose acetate and acrylic can be solvent welded , but they require different solvents to fuse the plastic together. The solvent essentially melts the surfaces of the plastic pieces, which then bond to form a seamless, single piece as the solvent evaporates. Solvent welding cellulose acetate - *Solvents:* The most common and accessible solvent for welding cellulose acetate is pure acetone. Nail polish remover is not recommended as it contains emollients and other additives that interfere with the welding process. - *Method:* A thin coat of acetone is applied to the clean surfaces of the cellulose acetate. The pieces are then pressed together and held firmly while the solvent evaporates. - *Considerations:* The process for welding cellulose acetate can be slow and requires significant pressure for a successful bond. - *Best for:* Eyeglass frames, tool handles, and film materials. Solvent welding acrylic - *Solvents:* Acrylic solvent cements, such as Weld-On #3 and #4, are specifically designed for bonding acrylic. These cements are typically a fast-drying, water-thin liquid based on chemicals like methylene chloride. - *Method:* The process relies on capillary action. With the pieces held together, a small amount of the liquid cement is applied along the seam. The solvent is drawn into the joint, melting the two surfaces together. - *Considerations:* It is crucial to have perfectly flat, smooth, and clean edges, as the watery solvent will not fill gaps. Clamping or taping the pieces together beforehand is recommended for precision. - *Best for:* Projects requiring a strong, clear, and seamless joint, such as display cases, signs, and aquariums. Key differences between the two Feature Cellulose Acetate Acrylic *Common Solvent* Pure Acetone Specialized acrylic cements (e.g., Weld-On #3) *Bond Speed* Slow, requiring hours and pressure to cure Very fast, with an initial set in minutes and a full cure in 24?48 hours *Bond Clarity* Can be clear, but is prone to blemishes if not done carefully. Excellent, capable of producing very clear, seamless, and bubble-free joints. *Application* Acetone can be brushed or sprayed on, but careful application is needed to avoid damaging the finish. Typically applied with a needle-nosed applicator to let capillary action draw the cement into the joint. If you just want to try glue....From my experience I would rule out super glue (cyanoacrylate) as it is better for static adhesion, like a figurine, not loads. Polyurethane glues like Gorilla glue are tougher (absorb stress by flexing a little more). I'd definitely rough up the surfaces and ideally if you could drill holes for small pins to couple them like dowels, you'd get the strongest combination with mechanical and chemical bonding. Best Ian On Sun, Oct 5, 2025 at 6:43?PM Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote: > My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to > keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be > under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, > decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to > me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. > > > > I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent > welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough > plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the > two pieces and keep my reputation intact? > > Thanks, > > PaG, aka Jim_______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/shop-talk2 at mcfetridge.org > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dhlocker at protonmail.com Mon Oct 6 16:51:39 2025 From: dhlocker at protonmail.com (dhlocker) Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2025 22:51:39 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: [Apologies to Jim for the duplicate response; I forget that I have to Reply to List for autox posts. Resending to list so all can jump on and criticise my response.] The pieces are likely acrylic for which solvent welding is the cat's pyjamas (dog's nuts; some other animal's PPE) https://www.acmeplastics.com/content/a-guide-to-gluing-acrylic-plastic-to-plastic/ has good advice. I don't trust any artificial plagiarism answers, FWIW. Donald. On 10/5/25 10:52, Jim Stone wrote: > My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. > > I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? > > Thanks, > > PaG, aka Jim > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at protonmail.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8004.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 80577 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_8005.jpeg Type: image/jpeg Size: 57146 bytes Desc: not available URL: From markmiller at threeboysfarm.com Mon Oct 6 18:22:00 2025 From: markmiller at threeboysfarm.com (Mark Miller) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 17:22:00 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld (Jim Stone In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1c7aa220-89fd-4720-b821-d9aa819e2780@threeboysfarm.com> I'd consider going to a local plastic shop? and ask them for recommendations and/or to do it (bring donuts and/or a five dollar bill in case they offer this....). Locally we have a Tap Plastics and they have always been super friendly and helpful. Their solvent info: https://www.tapplastics.com/repair_products/plastic_adhesives?srsltid=ARcRdnozESFT-zR_f00FYSgu7nDSGwQygKkungKzHnqwhdifNt0M0X-c Regards, Mark Miller 707-490-5834 markmiller at threeboysfarm.com On 10/5/2025 7:52 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Send Shop-talk mailing list submissions to > shop-talk at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > shop-talk-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > shop-talk-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Shop-talk digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Plastic epoxy/solvent weld (Jim Stone) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2025 10:52:04 -0400 > From: Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> > To: Shop Talk > Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. > > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_8004.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 80577 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > A non-text attachment was scrubbed... > Name: IMG_8005.jpeg > Type: image/jpeg > Size: 57146 bytes > Desc: not available > URL: > -------------- next part -------------- > > > I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? > > Thanks, > > PaG, aka Jim > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > Shop-talk mailing list > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk > > > ------------------------------ > > End of Shop-talk Digest, Vol 19, Issue 147 > ****************************************** > From 1789alpine at gmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:43:11 2025 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 20:43:11 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks, guys. I think it is acrylic, too and will give it a try. I can always try glue if solvent doesn?t work, but it is unlikely to work the other way around. Something new for my arsenal! > On Oct 6, 2025, at 6:51?PM, dhlocker wrote: > > [Apologies to Jim for the duplicate response; I forget that I have to Reply to List for autox posts. Resending to list so all can jump on and criticise my response.] > > The pieces are likely acrylic for which solvent welding is the cat's pyjamas (dog's nuts; some other animal's PPE) https://www.acmeplastics.com/content/a-guide-to-gluing-acrylic-plastic-to-plastic/ has good advice. > > I don't trust any artificial plagiarism answers, FWIW. > > Donald. > > On 10/5/25 10:52, Jim Stone wrote: >> My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. >> >> >> >> >> >> I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? >> >> Thanks, >> >> PaG, aka Jim >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/dhlocker at protonmail.com >> >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From bk13 at earthlink.net Mon Oct 6 18:54:12 2025 From: bk13 at earthlink.net (Brian Kemp) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 17:54:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7161deb4-cccd-4555-b0b3-a802f2762791@earthlink.net> I've had my fix-it reputation saved many times with E6000 adhesive. Sample: https://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-2-oz-Clear-Adhesive-800432/333376257 Fixed multiple special kid things.? Even reattached the bumper cover on my wife's car after she hit a pipe and tour the mounting tabs. Brian On 10/5/2025 7:52 AM, Jim Stone wrote: > My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. > > > > I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? > > Thanks, > > PaG, aka Jim > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net > From 1789alpine at gmail.com Mon Oct 6 18:59:18 2025 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 20:59:18 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: <7161deb4-cccd-4555-b0b3-a802f2762791@earthlink.net> References: <7161deb4-cccd-4555-b0b3-a802f2762791@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <477653FB-652D-4ADE-A3D3-956D5951B4CB@gmail.com> I?ve got E6000 in my arsenal, too, but I don?t think it would hold up to the spring pressure of the clip. But, it might be worth trying if the solvent doesn?t hold. I will report back shortly. > On Oct 6, 2025, at 8:54?PM, Brian Kemp wrote: > > I've had my fix-it reputation saved many times with E6000 adhesive. > > Sample: https://www.homedepot.com/p/E6000-2-oz-Clear-Adhesive-800432/333376257 > > Fixed multiple special kid things. Even reattached the bumper cover on my wife's car after she hit a pipe and tour the mounting tabs. > > Brian > > > On 10/5/2025 7:52 AM, Jim Stone wrote: >> My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. >> >> >> >> I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? >> >> Thanks, >> >> PaG, aka Jim >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $12.96 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive >> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/bk13 at earthlink.net >> > From 1789alpine at gmail.com Mon Oct 6 19:04:03 2025 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2025 21:04:03 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld (Jim Stone In-Reply-To: <1c7aa220-89fd-4720-b821-d9aa819e2780@threeboysfarm.com> References: <1c7aa220-89fd-4720-b821-d9aa819e2780@threeboysfarm.com> Message-ID: <5631C03F-C369-409E-88A7-9528A8B150A9@gmail.com> Sadly, no plastic shops anywhere near me and Tap charges $20 for delivery. I?ve ordered some from Amazon. We'll see... > On Oct 6, 2025, at 8:22?PM, Mark Miller wrote: > > I'd consider going to a local plastic shop and ask them for recommendations and/or to do it (bring donuts and/or a five dollar bill in case they offer this....). Locally we have a Tap Plastics and they have always been super friendly and helpful. > Their solvent info: https://www.tapplastics.com/repair_products/plastic_adhesives?srsltid=ARcRdnozESFT-zR_f00FYSgu7nDSGwQygKkungKzHnqwhdifNt0M0X-c > > Regards, > > Mark Miller 707-490-5834 > markmiller at threeboysfarm.com > > On 10/5/2025 7:52 AM, shop-talk-request at autox.team.net wrote: >> Send Shop-talk mailing list submissions to >> shop-talk at autox.team.net >> >> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk >> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to >> shop-talk-request at autox.team.net >> >> You can reach the person managing the list at >> shop-talk-owner at autox.team.net >> >> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific >> than "Re: Contents of Shop-talk digest..." >> >> >> Today's Topics: >> >> 1. Plastic epoxy/solvent weld (Jim Stone) >> >> >> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2025 10:52:04 -0400 >> From: Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> >> To: Shop Talk >> Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld >> Message-ID: >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. >> >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_8004.jpeg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 80577 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> A non-text attachment was scrubbed... >> Name: IMG_8005.jpeg >> Type: image/jpeg >> Size: 57146 bytes >> Desc: not available >> URL: >> -------------- next part -------------- >> >> >> I have never had tremendous luck gluing plastic but never tried solvent welding. Does anyone here have a recommendations for either a strong enough plastic glue or a readily available solvent that I could use to bond the two pieces and keep my reputation intact? >> >> Thanks, >> >> PaG, aka Jim >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> Subject: Digest Footer >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Shop-talk mailing list >> Shop-talk at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shop-talk >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> >> End of Shop-talk Digest, Vol 19, Issue 147 >> ****************************************** >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/1789alpine at gmail.com > From dmscheidt at gmail.com Tue Oct 7 12:18:30 2025 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2025 13:18:30 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Oct 5, 2025, at 17:50, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote: ?My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. Methylene chloride is the traditional solvent for acrylic welding. It is now banned for most uses, so newer forulmulations use something else. I have not used any of them, as I don?t work with acrylic. But I did do some in the mists of time. There were two types we used. One was a thin liquid (straight methylene chloride, or very nearly, I think) that was used for fabricating stuff with tightly fitted gap free joints. The other was a gel that would work for joints with a gap, it had acrylic in it, I think, which is what gave it gap filling power. Pick the right sort, based on how well your parts go back together. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From cspalding360 at gmail.com Wed Oct 8 12:38:10 2025 From: cspalding360 at gmail.com (Chuck Spalding) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2025 11:38:10 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This discussion has been very interesting, because I have struggled with glueing plastics. However the key point, to me, has not been mentioned: How to identify the *type* of plastic. Can somebody provide clues? Another challenging question (for me): What product works well on polyethylene and polypropylene, *and* has a good shelf life. I have used "Loctite Super Glue All Plastics", which works well but is expensive and has a short shelf life after being opened. Chuck On Wed, Oct 8, 2025 at 11:17?AM wrote: > > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2025 13:18:30 -0500 > From: David Scheidt > To: Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> > Cc: Shop Talk > Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld > > [snip] > > Methylene chloride is the traditional solvent for acrylic welding. It is > now banned for most uses, so newer forulmulations use something else. I > have not used any of them, as I don?t work with acrylic. But I did do some > in the mists of time. There were two types we used. One was a thin liquid > (straight methylene chloride, or very nearly, I think) that was used for > fabricating stuff with tightly fitted gap free joints. The other was a gel > that would work for joints with a gap, it had acrylic in it, I think, which > is what gave it gap filling power. Pick the right sort, based on how well > your parts go back together. > > [snip] > > End of Shop-talk Digest, Vol 19, Issue 151 > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Wed Oct 8 14:10:22 2025 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2025 16:10:22 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I keep my CA (super glue) in a ziploc bag in the refrigerator. I've had a little tube last years like that. On Wed, Oct 8, 2025 at 3:06?PM Chuck Spalding wrote: > This discussion has been very interesting, because I have struggled with > glueing plastics. > > However the key point, to me, has not been mentioned: How to identify the > *type* of plastic. Can somebody provide clues? > > Another challenging question (for me): What product works well > on polyethylene and polypropylene, *and* has a good shelf life. I have > used "Loctite Super Glue All Plastics", which works well but is expensive > and has a short shelf life after being opened. > > Chuck > > On Wed, Oct 8, 2025 at 11:17?AM wrote: > >> >> Message: 1 >> Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2025 13:18:30 -0500 >> From: David Scheidt >> To: Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> >> Cc: Shop Talk >> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld >> >> [snip] >> >> Methylene chloride is the traditional solvent for acrylic welding. It is >> now banned for most uses, so newer forulmulations use something else. I >> have not used any of them, as I don?t work with acrylic. But I did do some >> in the mists of time. There were two types we used. One was a thin >> liquid >> (straight methylene chloride, or very nearly, I think) that was used for >> fabricating stuff with tightly fitted gap free joints. The other was a >> gel >> that would work for joints with a gap, it had acrylic in it, I think, >> which >> is what gave it gap filling power. Pick the right sort, based on how well >> your parts go back together. >> >> [snip] >> >> End of Shop-talk Digest, Vol 19, Issue 151 >> > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/fishplate at gmail.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From 1789alpine at gmail.com Fri Oct 10 16:25:20 2025 From: 1789alpine at gmail.com (Jim Stone) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2025 18:25:20 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Just to update - and hopefully close - this thread, I bought this solvent from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DS69HMN6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title. It was a little less expensive than the Weld-On and I figured it was probably the same formulation. And, even this was probably more than the hair clip cost to begin with. As many of the reviewers had noted, the solvent poured pretty readily out of the applicator, but it seemed to do its job just fine. I ?glued? the hair clip back together and left it lightly clamped for 72 hours. I just tested it and it seems to be holding well. The package says that the bond continues to strengthen for several weeks so I will wait a bit longer to give it back to my granddaughter. I will re-weld it and add in a small stainless screw and nut, should ?hurricane Ellie? break it again. My thanks to all here for helping me keep my Grandpa Fixit status intact just a little longer. Jim > On Oct 7, 2025, at 2:18?PM, David Scheidt wrote: > > > >> On Oct 5, 2025, at 17:50, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com > wrote: >> >> ?My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. > > > Methylene chloride is the traditional solvent for acrylic welding. It is now banned for most uses, so newer forulmulations use something else. I have not used any of them, as I don?t work with acrylic. But I did do some in the mists of time. There were two types we used. One was a thin liquid (straight methylene chloride, or very nearly, I think) that was used for fabricating stuff with tightly fitted gap free joints. The other was a gel that would work for joints with a gap, it had acrylic in it, I think, which is what gave it gap filling power. Pick the right sort, based on how well your parts go back together. > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From watsonm05 at comcast.net Fri Oct 10 17:41:23 2025 From: watsonm05 at comcast.net (watsonm05 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2025 23:41:23 +0000 Subject: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim **HA!** I just bought the exact same product based on the info from this thread. I have some transparent acrylic windows on my son's special needs bed that have gotten cracked over the years and I really appreciate all the excellent input for everyone. Thanks, all! Mark Watson P.s. Garage input: I'll be using this product in the garage so I don't fume up the house ;-) ________________________________ From: Shop-talk on behalf of Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> Sent: Friday, October 10, 2025 6:25 PM To: Shop Talk Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Plastic epoxy/solvent weld Just to update - and hopefully close - this thread, I bought this solvent from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DS69HMN6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title. It was a little less expensive than the Weld-On and I figured it was probably the same formulation. And, even this was probably more than the hair clip cost to begin with. As many of the reviewers had noted, the solvent poured pretty readily out of the applicator, but it seemed to do its job just fine. I ?glued? the hair clip back together and left it lightly clamped for 72 hours. I just tested it and it seems to be holding well. The package says that the bond continues to strengthen for several weeks so I will wait a bit longer to give it back to my granddaughter. I will re-weld it and add in a small stainless screw and nut, should ?hurricane Ellie? break it again. My thanks to all here for helping me keep my Grandpa Fixit status intact just a little longer. Jim On Oct 7, 2025, at 2:18?PM, David Scheidt wrote: On Oct 5, 2025, at 17:50, Jim Stone <1789alpine at gmail.com> wrote: ?My granddaughter asked me to fix her favorite hair clip and I?d like to keep my reputation as Grandpa Fixit intact. The part that came off will be under stress when the clip is used. The plastic didn?t break; the larger, decorative part of the clip came loose from the spring clip. It looks to me like it was originally solvent welded, not glued. Methylene chloride is the traditional solvent for acrylic welding. It is now banned for most uses, so newer forulmulations use something else. I have not used any of them, as I don?t work with acrylic. But I did do some in the mists of time. There were two types we used. One was a thin liquid (straight methylene chloride, or very nearly, I think) that was used for fabricating stuff with tightly fitted gap free joints. The other was a gel that would work for joints with a gap, it had acrylic in it, I think, which is what gave it gap filling power. Pick the right sort, based on how well your parts go back together. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jniolon at att.net Mon Oct 20 12:33:10 2025 From: jniolon at att.net (john niolon) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2025 13:33:10 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] flexible tubing References: <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ.ref@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ@johns-desktop> OK... time to educate the old man... I have a need to replace a section of flexible air tubing on a air bag jack. I fabricated a new handle to give the jack more reach and the original tubing is too short I tried replacing original with H.D. stuff but it was too stiff to slip over the fitting... The original tubing is amber colored and very pliable...squeezes easily between your fingers.. the H.D. stuff was stiff It press fits over a fitting with a holding nut keeping it in place. I would imagine the working pressure would be around 100#s since most compressors put out that much It's i.d. is 3/26 and o.d. is 5/16 or its metric equivalent. Only markings on the orig is "013M" but I don't think that means `13mm' so first question ? what type tubing do I need vinyl ??? PVC ??? Polyethylene ???? second question ? where to find it """ pics attached thanks john -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1319.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823935 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1321.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 336574 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1325.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 370332 bytes Desc: not available URL: From patintexas at icloud.com Mon Oct 20 16:16:46 2025 From: patintexas at icloud.com (Pat Horne) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2025 17:16:46 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] flexible tubing In-Reply-To: <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ@johns-desktop> References: <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <85D9DB9F-C473-46EC-BFCB-68474A00A51C@icloud.com> Can?t help you with what type of tubing to use but you should be able to find ?it? @ McMaster-Carr. Depending on the temperature range you use your jacks in Will help determine what type of tubing to use. Did you check w/a repair shop? I?d suspect nylon but it?s white & not very flexible. Did you try using a heat gun on the HD stuff to put it on? Pat Horne We support Habitat for Humanity On Oct 20, 2025, at 1:47?PM, john niolon wrote: ? OK... time to educate the old man... I have a need to replace a section of flexible air tubing on a air bag jack. I fabricated a new handle to give the jack more reach and the original tubing is too short I tried replacing original with H.D. stuff but it was too stiff to slip over the fitting... The original tubing is amber colored and very pliable...squeezes easily between your fingers.. the H.D. stuff was stiff It press fits over a fitting with a holding nut keeping it in place. I would imagine the working pressure would be around 100#s since most compressors put out that much It's i.d. is 3/26 and o.d. is 5/16 or its metric equivalent. Only markings on the orig is "013M" but I don't think that means `13mm' so first question ? what type tubing do I need vinyl ??? PVC ??? Polyethylene ???? second question ? where to find it """ pics attached thanks john _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/patintexas at icloud.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Mon Oct 20 17:01:32 2025 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T Blair) Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2025 23:01:32 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] flexible tubing In-Reply-To: <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ@johns-desktop> References: <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ.ref@johns-desktop> <1UkUZ58SSh.A8bdxsU3XaZ@johns-desktop> Message-ID: <1307754829.2726112.1761001292649@mail.yahoo.com> On Monday, October 20, 2025 at 02:42:52 PM EDT, john niolon? wrote: >OK... time to educate the old man...? I have a need to replace a section of?>flexible air tubing on aair bag jack.? I fabricated a new handle to give the?>jack more reach and the original tubing is too short >I tried replacing original with H.D. stuff but it was too stiff to? slip over the?>fitting... The original tubing is amber colored and very pliable...squeezes?>easily between your fingers.. the H.D. stuff was stiff John, You should have some sort of Truck Stop shop around your area.? Take you old piece there, and know what length you want, and ask them what they have like that for air brakes. The Bricklin uses that to lift the the doors (about 100# ea).? You onboard compressors use a pressure switch that comes on about 110 and off at 150psi. Never had a problem with that.? Depending on the dia you are using you'll want to get the right fittings, again ask the counter person at the truck stop.? There are 2 types that I know of, one with the penis in the fitting and one where you have to purchase the metal insert for the dia. hose you are using.? If you don't have either of these metal inserts for the hose, the hose will collapse when you tighten the? nut on the ferrel.?? I'll send you pictures of the 2 connectors in another email. JohnT | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From mbarre at juno.com Tue Oct 21 04:57:46 2025 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2025 10:57:46 GMT Subject: [Shop-talk] flexible tubing Message-ID: <20251021.065746.16978.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Have you tried reaching out to the equipment manufacturer? They may be able to provide a longer tube or identify the spec and potential source Please note: message attached From: "john niolon" To: "shop-talk" Subject: [Shop-talk] flexible tubing Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2025 13:33:10 -0500 -------------- next part -------------- OK... time to educate the old man... I have a need to replace a section of flexible air tubing on a air bag jack. I fabricated a new handle to give the jack more reach and the original tubing is too short I tried replacing original with H.D. stuff but it was too stiff to slip over the fitting... The original tubing is amber colored and very pliable...squeezes easily between your fingers.. the H.D. stuff was stiff It press fits over a fitting with a holding nut keeping it in place. I would imagine the working pressure would be around 100#s since most compressors put out that much It's i.d. is 3/26 and o.d. is 5/16 or its metric equivalent. Only markings on the orig is "013M" but I don't think that means `13mm' so first question ? what type tubing do I need vinyl ??? PVC ??? Polyethylene ???? second question ? where to find it """ pics attached thanks john -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1319.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 823935 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1321.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 336574 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: IMG_1325.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 370332 bytes Desc: not available URL: -------------- next part -------------- _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/mbarre at juno.com From jblair1948 at cox.net Wed Oct 22 21:06:46 2025 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T Blair) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2025 03:06:46 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> I've just run into this problem twice now in the last month.? I have a ODB II scanner, a Actron CP9680 I bought back in 2021.? A couple of weeks ago I tried to read the codes on a late model KIA and to day on a 2018 Cadillac.? When I plugged the scanner in to both cars, it displayed turn the engine off. Well both of these cars had keyless ignitions.? So does anyone know how do you turn off the ignition on a keyless system? JohnT, John T. Blair? WA4OHZ???? email:? jblair1948 at cox.netVa. Beach, Va????????????????? Phone:? (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800??? 48 #4 Midget??? 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) ???? 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887)??? 77 Spitfire??? 71 Saab Sonett III ?????????????????????? 65 Rambler Classic Morgan:??? http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin:???? http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this???????????? - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! >From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: ???? e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." ???? In God We Trust ???? Liberty - the? power? of? choosing,? thinking,? and? acting? for? ????????????????? oneself; freedom? from? control? or? restriction? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Wed Oct 22 21:49:07 2025 From: eric at megageek.com (Moose) Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2025 23:49:07 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, If I'm understanding what you are asking, you need to run the car in 'accessory mode' only. That means all systems on, but the engine isn't running. Normally, in keyless cars, you just hit the 'start' button without pressing the brake. The same thing to shut off this mode. I don't know if that is what you are asking, if not, let me know. Moose From: John T Blair To: "shop-talk at autox.team.net" Date: 10/22/2025 23:11 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off Sent by: "Shop-talk" I've just run into this problem twice now in the last month. I have a ODB II scanner, a Actron CP9680 I bought back in 2021. A couple of weeks ago I tried to read the codes on a late model KIA and to day on a 2018 Cadillac. When I plugged the scanner in to both cars, it displayed turn the engine off. Well both of these cars had keyless ignitions. So does anyone know how do you turn off the ignition on a keyless system? JohnT, John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229 48 TR1800 48 #4 Midget 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) 77 Spitfire 71 Saab Sonett III 65 Rambler Classic Morgan: http://autox.team.net/morgan/ Bricklin: http://www.bricklin.org If you can read this - Thank a teacher! If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! >From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." In God We Trust Liberty - the power of choosing, thinking, and acting for oneself; freedom from control or restriction _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From dmscheidt at gmail.com Thu Oct 23 06:41:51 2025 From: dmscheidt at gmail.com (David Scheidt) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2025 07:41:51 -0500 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From jblair1948 at cox.net Thu Oct 23 08:24:13 2025 From: jblair1948 at cox.net (John T Blair) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2025 14:24:13 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1578544709.3334743.1761229453075@mail.yahoo.com> On Wednesday, October 22, 2025 at 11:49:09 PM EDT, Moose wrote: >If I'm understanding what you are asking,you need to run the car in?>'accessory mode' only. ?That means allsystems on, but the engine isn't?>running.> >Normally, in keyless cars, you justhit the 'start' button without pressing the>brake. ?The same thingto shut off this mode. >I don't know if that is what you areasking, if not, let me know. Moose, Great answer.? Thanks,? I think that is what I was asking.? I've never driven a keyless car.? It's hard to imagine a car without a key.?? ? At least for me. The person that owned the Cady had stopped by to show me the new-to-her? new car.? As an after thought she said she had an appointment with the dealership to have the check engine light checked.? She told me the story about the 1st time she rented a keyless car.? She went to an out of town friend house.? When she got the, she got out of the car and went inside.? No Key.? So she didn't think a think about it.? Then next morning she went out there and the car was out of gas.? It ran from about 5 pm till some time in the morning when it ran out of gas. Thanks again.? I'll try to remember that next time I run into that. JohnT, | | Virus-free. www.avast.com | -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From doug at dougbraun.com Thu Oct 23 08:40:28 2025 From: doug at dougbraun.com (Doug Braun) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2025 17:40:28 +0300 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: > > In recent Subarus with push button ignition, if you turn off the engine in > neutral, the radio, etc. will remain on. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From james.f.juhas at snet.net Thu Oct 23 08:59:55 2025 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2025 10:59:55 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John, That is how I did it with our 2024 Mazda 3 when attempting to program new TPMS sensors. As an aside, at least some cars stay in this accessory mode for a limited time. We once took an earlier Mazda to a drive in movie (Remember those? A few do still exist!)? and the modern technique is to play the sound on your car's FM radio. When the system times out, the system needs to be recycled, and the automatic lights and the interior lights come on. Kind of kills the mood and annoys your neighbors. Jim On 10/22/2025 11:49 PM, Moose wrote: > John, > > If I'm understanding what you are asking, you need to run the car in > 'accessory mode' only. ?That means all systems on, but the engine > isn't running. > > Normally, in keyless cars, you just hit the 'start' button without > pressing the brake. ?The same thing to shut off this mode. > > I don't know if that is what you are asking, if not, let me know. > > Moose > > > > From: John T Blair > To: "shop-talk at autox.team.net" > Date: 10/22/2025 23:11 > Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off > Sent by: "Shop-talk" > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > I've just run into this problem twice now in the last month. ?I have a > ODB II scanner, a Actron CP9680 I bought back in 2021. ?A couple of > weeks ago I tried to read the codes on a late model KIA and to day on > a 2018 Cadillac. > > When I plugged the scanner in to both cars, it displayed turn the > engine off. > > Well both of these cars had keyless ignitions. ?So does anyone know > how do you turn off the ignition on a keyless system? > > JohnT, > > > > John T. Blair ?WA4OHZ email: jblair1948 at cox.net > Va. Beach, Va ? ? ? ? ?Phone: ?(757) 495-8229 > > 48 TR1800 ? ?48 #4 Midget ? ?65 Morgan 4/4 Series V (B1106) > ? ? 75 Bricklin SV1 (#0887) ? ?77 Spitfire ?71 Saab Sonett III > ? 65 Rambler Classic > > Morgan: _http://autox.team.net/morgan/ > _ > Bricklin: _http://www.bricklin.org > _ > If you can read this ? ? ? ? ? ? - Thank a teacher! > If you are reading it in English - Thank a Vet!! > > From Dennis Prager - The American Trilogy: > ? ? e pluribus Unum, "from many, one." > ? ? In God We Trust > ? ? Liberty - the ?power ?of ?choosing, ?thinking, ?and ?acting ?for > ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?oneself; freedom ?from ?control ?or ?restriction > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation ?$12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate:http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/james.f.juhas at snet.net > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: -------------- next part -------------- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: MGA_311_LRP_2.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 40896 bytes Desc: not available URL: From fishplate at gmail.com Fri Oct 24 09:44:13 2025 From: fishplate at gmail.com (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2025 11:44:13 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Oct 23, 2025 at 11:09?AM Jim Juhas wrote: > We once took an earlier Mazda to a drive in movie (Remember those? A few > do still exist!) and the modern technique is to play the sound on your > car's FM radio. When the system times out, the system needs to be recycled, > and the automatic lights and the interior lights come on. Kind of kills the > mood and annoys your neighbors. > I made this mistake once. Never again. -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From eric at megageek.com Fri Oct 24 10:49:50 2025 From: eric at megageek.com (Moose) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2025 12:49:50 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off In-Reply-To: References: <558442810.3271529.1761188806462.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <558442810.3271529.1761188806462@mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You know, I have a funny story about that. I have a ford explorer and we have a great drive-in theater here. The first couple times I dealt with the light staying on for like 10 mins since I had the back door open (way better way to watch the movie.) Once the light was off, if we opened another door, it came on for another 10 mins. I spent the whole time thinking about how I was going to put manual switches on the lights (more than one light stays on.) I was really aggravated. Then, as life happens, I forgot all about it till the next time I went to the drive-in. Again, it bugged me. The next day I spent a ton of time researching this, if there was a by-pass, etc. TONS of people complained about it, but even Ford's official answer was "there is no override." Then, this past summer, the SO and I were spending a nice evening at a lake in TN in the truck, again dealing with that dang light! I got an idea! I just need to find the little button to make the truck think the door is shut. Aw, success would be mine, except I could find NO such switch! I was beaten again. Then, when I got home, I started to tear into that door, only to find out that the switch for the open door was in the latch. All I needed to do, was to 'trip' the latch with a screwdriver when the door was open and 'viola'! No light. (And I had to remember to 'unlatch' it before shutting it.) I still don't know why a company would think that making products so inflexible is a good idea! moose From: Jeff Scarbrough To: Cc: shop-talk at autox.team.net Date: 10/24/2025 11:49 Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Turn the engine off Sent by: "Shop-talk" On Thu, Oct 23, 2025 at 11:09?AM Jim Juhas wrote: We once took an earlier Mazda to a drive in movie (Remember those? A few do still exist!) and the modern technique is to play the sound on your car's FM radio. When the system times out, the system needs to be recycled, and the automatic lights and the interior lights come on. Kind of kills the mood and annoys your neighbors. I made this mistake once. Never again. _______________________________________________ Shop-talk at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $12.96 Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk http://autox.team.net/archive Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/eric at megageek.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From tjcora at icloud.com Fri Oct 24 17:02:20 2025 From: tjcora at icloud.com (Thomas Coradeschi) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2025 19:02:20 -0400 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic parts cleaners Message-ID: <4FEFB204-1F1B-4D76-8756-F7D7E11E88AB@icloud.com> Good evening, all. Looking to acquire a small parts cleaner, and seeking the collective wisdom as to what I might look for or look out for. I am thinking a unit I would be able drop something like a small engine carburetor into. In addition to hardware, thoughts on what to put in it would be welcome. Thanks! Tom Coradeschi tjcora at icloud.com From bspidell at comcast.net Fri Oct 24 19:09:49 2025 From: bspidell at comcast.net (Bob Spidell) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2025 18:09:49 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic parts cleaners In-Reply-To: <4FEFB204-1F1B-4D76-8756-F7D7E11E88AB@icloud.com> References: <4FEFB204-1F1B-4D76-8756-F7D7E11E88AB@icloud.com> Message-ID: I got this from HF and it's worked adequately (though I think it was about $15 less when I bought it). I use it to clean small screens on my irrigation valve controllers with a mix of about 20% CLR. Carburetors I soak in lacquer thinner. Bob On 10/24/2025 4:02 PM, Thomas Coradeschi wrote: > Good evening, all. > > Looking to acquire a small parts cleaner, and seeking the collective wisdom as to what I might look for or look out for. I am thinking a unit I would be able drop something like a small engine carburetor into. > > In addition to hardware, thoughts on what to put in it would be welcome. > > Thanks! > > Tom Coradeschi > tjcora at icloud.com > _______________________________________________ > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: From miq at bigllama.com Fri Oct 24 20:25:12 2025 From: miq at bigllama.com (MIQ MILLMAN) Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2025 19:25:12 -0700 Subject: [Shop-talk] Ultrasonic parts cleaners In-Reply-To: <4FEFB204-1F1B-4D76-8756-F7D7E11E88AB@icloud.com> References: <4FEFB204-1F1B-4D76-8756-F7D7E11E88AB@icloud.com> Message-ID: some pointers: 1) get the larger size than you are thinking of. I bought a 10L capacity, then immediately found that I should have instead selected the 22L version 2) put distilled water in the tank, and use either glass jars or ziptop bags with cleaning solution (e.g. undiluted zep or simply green degreaser) inside for really grungy bits--squeeze out all the air from the ziptops, not needed if you use glass jars 3) Watts of heat is not as important as watts of ultrasonic power. Most units have separate ratings for heat and sonic. 4) Vevor as a brand is just ok, Creworks seems much better quality control, and has higher wattage in same sizes, worth the extra 20% price it seems to ask good luck on your grunge --Miq On Fri, Oct 24, 2025 at 4:09?PM Thomas Coradeschi wrote: > Good evening, all. > > Looking to acquire a small parts cleaner, and seeking the collective > wisdom as to what I might look for or look out for. I am thinking a unit I > would be able drop something like a small engine carburetor into. > > In addition to hardware, thoughts on what to put in it would be welcome. > > Thanks! > > Tom Coradeschi > tjcora at icloud.com > _______________________________________________ > > Shop-talk at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/shop-talk > http://autox.team.net/archive > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/miq at bigllama.com > > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: