[Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
John Phillis
jphillis68@hotmail.com
Thu, 07 Nov 2002 19:30:08 -0500
well, like I said, experience doesn't hurt. knowledge is nice too. just for
poops and giggles, what kind of PPG paint did you use when you did your
inner fenders and stuff? just curious... I like to see what I can do for
all people trying to paint. I learned to paint from experience before I ever
went to a school, and it's very very frustrating. to make things worse,
there is no good book, other than a textbook I own that I have found for
painting. yeah, there are LOTS of books, most are outdated, and not the way
the cookie crumbles sort of stuff. I mean no one these days needs to know
how to braze lead into a gap. unless you like being a glutton for
punishment. not knocking the practice, it's just outdated. it had drawbacks,
as does other things, but modern shop supplies are far better. now as far
as primer goes, I recomend only a high solid urethane, or catalyst primer.
if you are into PPG, then NCP-270 or NCP-271 is the way to go. it's the same
stuff just 1 means grey and 0 means red. it's very important to be clean adn
grease free, otherwise, a fisheye condition will occur. when doing finish
sanding before painting, I recommend using nothing coarse 400 and up is the
rule. 600 is ideal if you are using a thin basecoat clear coat system.
using sanding blocks, not over sanding, things like that. makes body work
good. look for the perfectly mirrored finish in your body work or putty
work, don't let anything look rough or uneven adn hope that paint will fill
in the holes. all paint does is make the holes or scratches worse. and if
done properly paint is like a mirror, and so any uneveness will show. there
is nothign worse than seeing a car with $650 a gallon paint on it, and
seeing yoru reflection as if you were standing in front of a fun house
mirror. it's stupid. well, ok basically all I really wanted to say was, if
you are using PPG paint, Deltron series base coat-clear coat. and you have
runs in your base coat, then you are really really spraying on too thick
basecoat paints are approx. 2 mil film build. each coat you put on shoudl
be paper thin, I am not saying splotchy dust coats, but basically after 5
mins after shooting the paint, it shoudl be flat, not reflective. if it
looks wet, than it is too thick. if you are using acrylic enamel delstar
PPG, then yeah, no mater what you do it is not gonna look like factory
paint. unless it is a solid color like black or white, or red, not a pearl
or metallic. if you do run yoru paint or have a rouch surface, then some
2000 grit sandpaper and some elbow grease will do nicely. you can make any
thick rough paint job smooth as long as you have elbow grease. also if I may
recomend a clearcoat. I like matrix clear coat. matrix MS-20 clear coat is
a very high performance clear. extremely fluid, yet is still urethane and
will gel quickly. you can match factory orange peel exactly, if not better
than factory with this clearcoat. but again, just my $0.02
I shoudl be posting off list, but I already opened this window, I apologize
for flooding email.
I wish I had a website with pictures of some of the hotrods, customs and
classics not to mention SHO's I have painted, but in the meantime, if anyone
is curious to see some of my work...
http://www.geocities.com/elcamino_1972/mustang.html this is the only
picture I have on the internet, of my own car, taken at Carlisle's All Ford
Nationals.
anyhow just ranting a lot of nothing again.
John Phillis
From: "Michael S Wojton" <Mike.Wojton@owens-ill.com>
CC: Shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: [Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:27:00 -0500
I disagree. I think it takes alot of experience to paint a car and have it
come
out looking very good. Some people may have more of a talent for it and
can do well right out of the gate, but I think the majority of people can't.
Did your first paint job look as good as the last one you did? I would
guess no. I'm sure you've gotten much better over the years. I would
imagine it takes time to develop the "feel" for spraying. When I painted
some things, I had a hard time putting enough paint on so that it would
"flow" and look smooth, but not enough that it would start to run, which
it did in spots. The more I did, the better it looked. But I'm still glad
it
was all underhood stuff, ie inner fenders, core support, etc. And I did use
good PPG paint, over a good primer finish.
Remember, this is just my opinion. Go easy on me. : )
Mike Wojton
'95 MTX
Toledo, Ohio
shomike@tri-statesho-svt.org
K&N sans silencer cone
SHO Shop Y-pipe
"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan
------------------( Forwarded letter 1 follows )---------------------
Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 15:50:33 -0500
To: Shotimes@autox.team.net
From: John.Phillis[jphillis68]@hotmail.com
Sender: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Timing Belt/Misc.
as far as painting goes, I can do just about anything. I am currently
building a car completely from scratch, from teh tube chassis to blowing the
fiberglass body. so just ask... as far as where to start, I can list you a
complete detailed order of how to, for completely professional results, as I
am, a professional.
I do not recommend just picking up a car piece and start practicing
spraying. if you use good good paint, a monkey could make it look good.
although, some experience never hurts. :-)
but basically, I don't have time to make a list right now, but I will do,
possibly something for the SHOTimes FAQ.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:48 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Timing Belt/Misc.
> Hi All,
>
> ('93 MTX - 110K - Bone Stock - don't have service records before about
> 70K)
>
> I have torn down the following:
>
> Radiator (was leaking previously then seemed to plug itself up - will be
> replaced)
> Water Pump/CPS (water pump was leaking bad)
> Thermostat/Sending Unit
> Timing Belt (broke - that's the reason for all this)
> Valve Covers off - ready to do valve shim check/replacement
> Plugs/Wires will get replaced (with Ford/MC of course)
> Cleaned engine bay and repainted underneath where degreaser took a bunch
> of paint off my sub-frame
>
> I am kind of stalled out as I wait for parts and money for parts so I
> can put everything back together. I thought I would ask a few stupid
> questions in the mean time!
>
> 1. Timing belt - the one that broke and I took off is a Gates
> #1248. What were the original timing belts installed at the factory?
> Does this Gates belt mean it has been replaced before, or was this
> possibly original factory issue?
> 2. I am kind of getting ahead of myself (since I will need brakes
> and tires next) but I want to re-paint the car eventually. All kinds of
> minor nicks, scratches, etc. Some fool before me tried to touch up
> something on the rear bumper and it looks like crap. I have a furniture
> shop with a 25HP Rotary Screw compressor, air dryer, Binks spray equip,
> etc. Would it be possible, with these tools at my disposal, to re-paint
> (original green) myself and have it look like it was professionally
> done? O.K. - I have never painted a car before and have no clue where
> to start - Any step by step suggestions out there for a total re-paint?
>
> Thanks in advance for any help again!
>
> Kerry Kinion
> McMinnville, OR.
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
_______________________________________________
Shotimes mailing list
Shotimes@autox.team.net
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
_________________________________________________________________
The new MSN 8: smart spam protection and 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
_______________________________________________
Shotimes mailing list
Shotimes@autox.team.net
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
_______________________________________________
Shotimes mailing list
Shotimes@autox.team.net
http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 helps eliminate e-mail viruses. Get 2 months FREE*.
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus