[Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.

David P jpotter8@bellsouth.net
Fri, 8 Nov 2002 08:04:59 -0500


Orange peels? Fisheyes? Runs? Sounds like the makings of a bad bathroom
joke!




David P

95MTX



~
----- Original Message -----
From: "James White" <greensho@crown.net>
To: "John Phillis" <jphillis68@hotmail.com>; <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 21:24
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.


> Actually I thought that this post was a lot of good information for
> everybody.
>
> I have done a lot of spraying of furniture, cabinets, etc. with
> Sherman-Williams Super-Chemvar catalyzed urethane and am almost ready to
> start to try some patch work on a SHO.
>
> On wood you are looking for a different end result than on your car.  Runs
> are bad as is orange peel and fisheyes, but not filling up all of the
grain
> is OK.   Like you said most of the work is the prep.  The next is not to
get
> cheap with the material.  Not likely that the production custom cabinet
shop
> uses $9/gal urethane from the home center.  They go to professional supply
> houses like the industrial division of Sherman-Williams.
>
> These folks really don't like the regular home owner buying stuff, so they
> try to make difficult and make you buy it in a 5 gallon pail and catalyst
by
> the gallon.  No problem since just the woodwork on just the first floor
took
> 15 gallons.
>
> Also a word of caution.  One MUST use a proper mask or other breathing
> device.  All of this stuff is really bad to breathe!  A lot different than
> painting a little something with a rattle can.
>
> This good stuff also teaches you how to really clean your spray gun
> especially with clear, because it is hard to see.  Wait too long and it
will
> never work again!
>
> regards,
> Jim White - greensho@crown.net
> Valparaiso, Indiana
> '93  5 SPEED   275k few mods
> '95  5 SPEED   225k lots of mods
> "double clutch"  it's still good for both you and your SHO
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Phillis" <jphillis68@hotmail.com>
> To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 6:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Painting was Timing Belt/Misc.
>
>
> > well, like I said, experience doesn't hurt. knowledge is nice too. just
> for
> > poops and giggles, what kind of PPG paint did you use when you did your
> > inner fenders and stuff? just curious...  I like to see what I can do
for
> > all people trying to paint. I learned to paint from experience before I
> ever
> > went to a school, and it's very very frustrating. to make things worse,
> > there is no good book, other than a textbook I own that I have found for
> > painting. yeah, there are LOTS of books, most are outdated, and not the
> way
> > the cookie crumbles sort of stuff. I mean no one these days needs to
know
> > how to braze lead into a gap. unless you like being a glutton for
> > punishment. not knocking the practice, it's just outdated. it had
> drawbacks,
> > as does other things, but modern shop supplies are far better.  now as
far
> > as primer goes, I recomend only a high solid urethane, or catalyst
primer.
> > if you are into PPG, then NCP-270 or NCP-271 is the way to go. it's the
> same
> > stuff just 1 means grey and 0 means red. it's very important to be clean
> adn
> > grease free, otherwise, a fisheye condition will occur. when doing
finish
> > sanding before painting, I recommend using nothing coarse 400 and up is
> the
> > rule.  600 is ideal if you are using a thin basecoat clear coat system.
> > using sanding blocks, not over sanding, things like that.  makes body
work
> > good.  look for the perfectly mirrored finish in your body work or putty
> > work, don't let anything look rough or uneven adn hope that paint will
> fill
> > in the holes. all paint does is make the holes or scratches worse.  and
if
> > done properly paint is like a mirror, and so any uneveness will show.
> there
> > is nothign worse than seeing a car with $650 a gallon paint on it, and
> > seeing yoru reflection as if you were standing in front of a fun house
> > mirror. it's stupid.  well, ok basically all I really wanted to say was,
> if
> > you are using PPG paint, Deltron series base coat-clear coat. and you
have
> > runs in your base coat, then you are really really spraying on too thick
> > basecoat paints are approx. 2 mil film build.  each coat you put on
shoudl
> > be paper thin,  I am not saying splotchy dust coats, but basically after
5
> > mins after shooting the paint, it shoudl be flat, not reflective. if it
> > looks wet, than it is too thick.   if you are using acrylic enamel
delstar
> > PPG, then yeah, no mater what you do it is not gonna look like factory
> > paint. unless it is a solid color like black or white, or red, not a
pearl
> > or metallic.  if you do run yoru paint or have a rouch surface, then
some
> > 2000 grit sandpaper and some elbow grease will do nicely.  you can make
> any
> > thick rough paint job smooth as long as you have elbow grease. also if I
> may
> > recomend a clearcoat.   I like matrix clear coat. matrix MS-20 clear
coat
> is
> > a very high performance clear. extremely fluid, yet is still urethane
and
> > will gel quickly. you can match factory orange peel exactly, if not
better
> > than factory with this clearcoat. but again, just my $0.02
> >
> > I shoudl be posting off list, but I already opened this window, I
> apologize
> > for flooding email.
> >
> > I wish I had a website with pictures of some of the hotrods, customs and
> > classics not to mention SHO's I have painted, but in the meantime, if
> anyone
> > is curious to see some of my work...
> > http://www.geocities.com/elcamino_1972/mustang.html  this is the only
> > picture I have on the internet, of my own car, taken at Carlisle's All
> Ford
> > Nationals.
> >
> > anyhow just ranting a lot of nothing again.
> >
> > John Phillis
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > From: "Michael S Wojton" <Mike.Wojton@owens-ill.com>
> > CC: Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Painting   was Timing Belt/Misc.
> > Date: Thu, 7 Nov 2002 16:27:00 -0500
> >
> > I disagree.  I think it takes alot of experience to paint a car and have
> it
> > come
> > out looking very good.  Some people may have more of a talent for it and
> > can do well right out of the gate, but I think the majority of people
> can't.
> > Did your first paint job look as good as the last one you did?  I would
> > guess no.  I'm sure you've gotten much better over the years.  I would
> > imagine it takes time to develop the "feel" for spraying.  When I
painted
> > some things, I had a hard time putting enough paint on so that it would
> > "flow" and look smooth, but not enough that it would start to run, which
> > it did in spots.  The more I did, the better it looked.  But I'm still
> glad
> > it
> > was all underhood stuff, ie inner fenders, core support, etc.  And I did
> use
> > good PPG paint, over a good primer finish.
> >
> > Remember, this is just my opinion.  Go easy on me.  : )
> >
> >
> > Mike Wojton
> > '95 MTX
> > Toledo, Ohio
> > shomike@tri-statesho-svt.org
> >
> > K&N sans silencer cone
> > SHO Shop Y-pipe
> >
> > "Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan
> >
> > ------------------( Forwarded letter 1 follows )---------------------
> > Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 15:50:33 -0500
> > To: Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > From: John.Phillis[jphillis68]@hotmail.com
> > Sender: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Timing Belt/Misc.
> >
> > as far as painting goes, I can do just about anything. I am currently
> > building a car completely from scratch, from teh tube chassis to blowing
> the
> > fiberglass body.  so just ask...  as far as where to start, I can list
you
> a
> > complete detailed order of how to, for completely professional results,
as
> I
> > am, a professional.
> >
> > I do not recommend just picking up a car piece and start practicing
> > spraying. if you use good good paint, a monkey could make it look good.
> > although, some experience never hurts. :-)
> >
> > but basically, I don't have time to make a list right now, but I will
do,
> > possibly something for the SHOTimes FAQ.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
> > To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:48 PM
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Timing Belt/Misc.
> >
> >
> >   > Hi All,
> >   >
> >   > ('93 MTX - 110K - Bone Stock - don't have service records before
about
> >   > 70K)
> >   >
> >   > I have torn down the following:
> >   >
> >   > Radiator (was leaking previously then seemed to plug itself up -
will
> be
> >   > replaced)
> >   > Water Pump/CPS (water pump was leaking bad)
> >   > Thermostat/Sending Unit
> >   > Timing Belt (broke - that's the reason for all this)
> >   > Valve Covers off - ready to do valve shim check/replacement
> >   > Plugs/Wires will get replaced (with Ford/MC of course)
> >   > Cleaned engine bay and repainted underneath where degreaser took a
> bunch
> >   > of paint off my sub-frame
> >   >
> >   > I am kind of stalled out as I wait for parts and money for parts so
I
> >   > can put everything back together.  I thought I would ask a few
stupid
> >   > questions in the mean time!
> >   >
> >   > 1. Timing belt - the one that broke and I took off is a Gates
> >   > #1248.  What were the original timing belts installed at the
factory?
> >   > Does this Gates belt mean it has been replaced before, or was this
> >   > possibly original factory issue?
> >   > 2. I am kind of getting ahead of myself (since I will need brakes
> >   > and tires next) but I want to re-paint the car eventually.  All
kinds
> of
> >   > minor nicks, scratches, etc.  Some fool before me tried to touch up
> >   > something on the rear bumper and it looks like crap.  I have a
> furniture
> >   > shop with a 25HP Rotary Screw compressor, air dryer, Binks spray
> equip,
> >   > etc.  Would it be possible, with these tools at my disposal, to
> re-paint
> >   > (original green) myself and have it look like it was professionally
> >   > done?  O.K. - I have never painted a car before and have no clue
where
> >   > to start - Any step by step suggestions out there for a total
> re-paint?
> >   >
> >   > Thanks in advance for any help again!
> >   >
> >   > Kerry Kinion
> >   > McMinnville, OR.
> >   > _______________________________________________
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