[Shotimes] E-Brake Springs

[David P]

There are two ways to attack this.

1) Use a evaporative lubricant that will run easily down the inside of the
cable housing. Thoroughly lubricate the cable itself and run it back and
forth as far as it will go through each housing. Do this from  both ends.
This is done after doing the same thing with a good solvent that will
completely evaporate, to get out all the old gunk. I used to do this with
double-ended bike cables and it renews cables as long as the housing or
cable are not kinked (bent) or worn.

2) Cut the cable at a strategic point, remove from housing and
clean/lubricate. Reinstall with a decent cable clamp. Yes, there are clamps
out there designed for cables that have no extra length, and that actually
hold the cables together without coming apart. You may not find them at your
local auto stores. Honestly, though, I'm more prone to hit the j/y for a
working used cable in good order. While you're at it, pick up an automatic
release assembly from an ATX (Taurus, SHO or not, and Sable) and the vacuum
solenoid. When you are installing the replacement cable you can hook up the
automatic release to a switch and forever end bending down to release that
e-brake. Power the switch with a Hot-during-run source, and relay the power
off the brake switch (Normally open). You'll have to have your foot on the
brake pedal and the car running when you push the button to power release
the brake. Really easy job.


David P

95MTX



~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark D. Mallory" <mmallory78@earthlink.net>
To: "Christian Kesselring" <ckesselring@sisna.com>; "David P"
<jpotter8@bellsouth.net>; "Shotimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 08, 2002 09:33
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] E-Brake Springs


> I may be missing something... how do you propose to get the cable out of
its
> sheath?  Both ends are permanently fastened.  None of the three e-brake
> cables have any extra cable to cut the ends and re-attach them... even if
> you could.
>
> Here's what I've found on my old cables.  The cable is a standard steel
wire
> cable with a clear plastic coating on it... which btw does a great job at
> protecting the steel wire inside.  The sheath is made from a spiral wound
> steel wire (like a spring) on the inside with some kind of polymer coating
> (not sure what exactly it is) for the outer jacket.
>
> Inspecting my frozen driver's side cable indicated that the pinch point
was
> at or near (within 6") the sheath ends.  To date, I have been
un-successful
> at even budging the cable at these points.  I've all but ruined the free
> cable trying to get it to move.  I verified the pinch points by cutting
the
> sheath every 8" and checking the cable for freedom of movement.  What
> concerns me is that the cable is frozen and the clear plastic coating on
the
> cable itself is intact.  This indicates that the cable and sheath are not
> rusting together... either the fitting is rusting and pinching the cable
or
> something else all together is happening.  I've got some more cutting to
do
> to inspect the condition of the metal fittings on the end of the sheath.
>
> Right now... I'd have to say that you'll want to replace the frozen cable
or
> cables with new ones and possibly try to lubricate them prior to
> installation.  Without knowing exactly how they're freezing, it's hard to
> say what to lubricate them with.
>
> Comments and suggestions welcome...
>
> Mark Mallory
> Toledo, Ohio
> '95 SHO MTX
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Christian Kesselring" <ckesselring@sisna.com>
> To: "David P" <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>; "Shotimes"
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 6:23 PM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] E-Brake Springs
>
>
> > I think you mean the tension spring is NOT on the rear calipers, as
> pointed
> > out to me by Mark M.  Apparently the spring on the caliper, the PITA
> return
> > spring, is what I am looking for.  BTW, if anyone else has had a spring
> > launch the retaining post into orbit when loosening it (i.e. someone as
> > stupid as me), it isn't too hard to fudge a new post with common
hardware
> > store fasteners.  Thanks for the input on cleaning the cable, David.
> >
> > - Christian
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "David P" <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>
> > To: "Christian Kesselring" <ckesselring@sisna.com>; "Shotimes"
> > <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Thursday, November 07, 2002 2:15 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] E-Brake Springs
> >
> >
> > > Christian,
> > >
> > >     The spring that places tension on the e-brake is on the rear
> calipers.
> > >
> > >     If your cable is sticking, you can try removing the inner cable
from
> > > it's housing(s), lubricating the housing(s) and cable, and reinserting
> the
> > > cable.
> > >
> > >
> > > David P
> > >
> > > 95MTX
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ~
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Christian Kesselring" <ckesselring@sisna.com>
> > > To: "Shotimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2002 10:05
> > > Subject: [Shotimes] E-Brake Springs
> > >
> > >
> > > > Can anyone tell me where I should look for the caliper springs that
> > place
> > > > tension on the e-brake cable?  Also, does anyone have a link to a
> decent
> > > > write-up on fixing or replacing sticky e-brake cables?  Thanks in
> > > advance...
> > > >
> > > > Christian Kesselring
> > > > '92 SHO 119k
> > > > '02 PT Cruiser 9k
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Shotimes mailing list
> > > > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > > > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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