[Shotimes] Block heater

[Steve Weinrich]

What was not indicated to qualify that particular guru's statement was the
service history of the cars in question.

Since many synthetic oil users run extended change intervals, there is no
real way to determine if the shim failures were due to oil failure or from
failure to change the oil before it broke down.

Without the necessary background data, the reports would have to be
classified as "anecdotal" only.

Steve



----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim and Debbie Leyden" <jndleyden@mindspring.com>
To: "Paul L Fisher" <sho@paul-fisher.com>
Cc: "92SHO" <92sho@ivex.qc.ca>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 1:46 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Block heater


> Next off the wall question...  I have been told by a SHO guru that
synthetic
> oils and the SHO motor don't get along.  He says he has seen more badly
worn
> valve shims in cars using synthetics that with dino oil.  Anyone care to
> comment?
>
> Jim
> '93 MTX
> 20 point dino oil
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 2:42 PM
> To: Jim and Debbie Leyden
> Cc: Paul L Fisher; 92SHO; shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Block heater
>
>
>
> On the viscosity range. Yes that is true for dino oils but even Mobil now
> does
> 0W30.
>
> Paul L Fisher
> '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 166K Build date 11/18/1992
> - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
Holley
> 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
0W-30
> oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
> '00 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 AWD Oxford White Clearcoat 34K Build date
> 11/19/1999
> - Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit
>
> SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
>
> Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
>
>
> Quoting Jim and Debbie Leyden <jndleyden@mindspring.com>:
>
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Paul L Fisher
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 8:33 AM
> > To: 92SHO
> > Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Block heater
> >
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> > >My personal experience is that when you put a block heater in, they
> > usually
> > >leak after a year or 2. You could get a heated dipstick which will
> > work
> > almost
> > >as good. Another thing would be to put a good quality 0W30 oil in
> > (Mobil 1
> > and
> > >Amsoil sell them).
> >
> > I worked for a machine tool company that developed (in conjunction
> > with
> > Mobil) several types of low friction lubricants.  While I was working
> > with
> > the scientists from Mobil I was picking their collective brains.  They
> > told
> > me the the friction modifiers that are used in motor oil become unstable
> > if
> > they have more than a 20 point spread ( like 10W-30 is only twenty)  I
> > have
> > discussed this with sales reps from other oil companies and they agree
> > with
> > the Mobil guys.
> >
> > >A even more temporary/cheaper alternative is put a drop light with a
> > 100W
> > >light bulb under the hood hooked up to a timer. Have the timer turn on
> > 1-2
> > >hours before you plan on starting the car.
> >
> > Since heat rises...  I might suggest placing it under the pan instead
> > of
> > under the hood.  After all, we ARE trying to heat the oil, not the
> > hood
> > blanket!
> >
> > :-}
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > '93 MTX
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