[Shotimes] Wouldn't start, now another problem

[Ron Childs]

I would suggest resetting the PCM and trying it again. I believe the way to do this is disconnect the battery for a while (20 min.) and step on the brake to discharge anything still stored. When you restart it, leave the HVAC off and see if the car will "relearn" its idle. It should start out at about 2K and gradually come down to normal idle speed.
 
Unfortunately, resetting the PCM also resets your clock and radio. No big deal if you have other issues.
 
-Ron Childs   '91
 
 
 Michael Humbert <humbem@rpi.edu> wrote:Hello all. After adjusting my valves and putting new plugs and wires
in, my car was running great. Then today, it wouldnt start. I
diagnosed the problem as the DIS connector not being firmly connected.
Pushed it on, and voila. However, in coming to this conclusion, I think
I may have messed something else up. I tried pulling codes, and ended
up powering the fuel pump. At this point I should mention that I have a
1990. I did this by connecting the positive terminal of my battery to
the self test input and the fuel pump pins in the EEC-IV self test
connector. I heard what I believe was the ignition control module and
the fuel injectors make some noise for a few seconds, then realized I
had the wire in the wrong pin. I meant to power the signal return pin
instead of the fuel pump pin, but its been a while since Ive done it,
so I mixed the two up. Anyway, I got it to start, but it now idles at
almost 2000 rpm, and will hiccup when I floor it. Its almost as if it
hits the rev limiter, just cuts out but does not stall. If I very
slowly push the gas pedal, it seems fine. Im not sure at all what is
wrong, and was looking for any input. I did try to run the codes after
the shit hit the fan, but the test would not work. Im 100% sure that I
did the code reading procedure correctly, but the test just would not
start. Please help me out because I am completely baffled!

Mike Humbert
90 SHO in Troy, NY
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