[Shotimes] Brake questions!

[Paul L Fisher]

Heat is fine as long as you replace the fluid soon thereafter and don't melt
the rubber parts. I would just use some vise grips and go to town,
personally.

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 171K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, '96 brake upgrade, Proportioning valve plugs, Delrin
sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Tatro" <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>
To: "'SHOtimes (Team.net)'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 12:52 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Brake questions!


> I replaced my rotors and pads over the weekend.  I realized one thing,
> I'm tired of my calipers being yellow!  Is there a heavy-duty paint
> remover that will get the yellow paint off my calipers?
>
> Also, I'm probably going to follow the brake seasoning techniques
> illustrated by Baer
> http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4.  Any thoughts?
>
> Oh, and my front two bleeder screws are "stuck".  Both are slightly
> rounded off.  Any ideas how to get them out?  Probably don't want to use
> heat on them, right?  I plan on installing speed bleeders on all four
> corners.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Steve Tatro
> Red/Black '93 with 167k miles
> Cincinnati, Ohio
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> Shotimes@autox.team.net
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