[Shotimes] rod bearings

Paul L Fisher sho@paul-fisher.com
Tue, 29 Apr 2003 00:37:09 -0500


Mine was very loud at 3000 RPM. You could hear it down the block. The bearing 
closest to the belts was actually cracked, the bearing closest to the 
flesplate was badly pitted. The others just showed some copper. The crank 
looked really smooth.

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 172K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6

Quoting Kerry Kinion <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>:

> Just my 2 cents - but if you're car sounded like mine you'd be worried
> about just sticking standard sized bearings on.  If you don't hear the
> noise then (people who know can be more helpful) standard size is what I
> would go with.  I don't trust that standard size will fix my problem -
> but I'll let you all know what I end up doing.  I wish I was doing this
> as preventative - but instead I'm hearing from the people who know -
> "you shouldn't drive the thing until you fix this", so here I go!
> Actually and once again, I'm having some fun learning about this kind of
> stuff and luckily this problem isn't anywhere near as expensive as doing
> the 60k+ I just got thru!!
> 
> Kerry ('93 MTX, 111k, fresh 60k+)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bruce Malachuk [mailto:bmalach1@nycap.rr.com] 
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 8:56 PM
> To: Paul Chapin; shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> 
> Just outta curiosity, in replacing the rod bearings if one does it as a
> "preventative action" do you need to worry about different sized bearing
> sets?
> 
> I'm a little confused now, whereas before this topic came up I wasn't.
> I've
> been thinking about doing these on my car just cause I like to get on it
> a
> little to much. Plus the previous owner was one to "lug" the car in 5th
> gear
> at really low RPMs.
> 
> Bruce
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Chapin" <pchapin@houston.rr.com>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:36 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> 
> 
> > Many people have had success with just replacing the bearings on the
> SHO
> if
> > caught before they spin and do damage to the crank. I have not seen
> anyone
> > post that they have had any problems with replacing the bearings
> before
> they
> > spin. When at the point of knocking it is a gamble as to how long
> replacing
> > the bearings will last. If the crank is damaged then you have to pull
> the
> > engine to remove the crank. You are now at the point of needing to do
> a
> > complete overhaul to make it worth the effort. This if done correctly
> gets
> > in the $6,000 range really quickly. Not many SHO's are worth $6,000 so
> that
> > is why most just replace the bearings if they catch it before damage
> occurs,
> > about a $100 job. A lot who don't catch the problem in time are buying
> used
> > motors because of the high cost of a complete rebuild.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "-Newmy-" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>
> > To: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>;
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:14 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> >
> >
> > > Automatically you should be pulling the crank, machining it, and
> > installing
> > > the matching bearings.
> > > ie-> .010 under on the crank,= .010 over on the bearings. Otherwise
> your
> > > just looking at alot of wasted  time for nothing. Cranks, rods and
> > bearings
> > > all have a very, very close tolerence. I've had it happen before
> where
> > > installing fresh bearings onto a crank or rod journal that wasnt
> even
> > making
> > > noise, ends up knocking due to the 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch
> from
> not
> > > machining accordingly. And with the time it would take you to put in
> new
> > > bearings anyways, the little extra time is far, far worth it..
> > > Newmy
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