[Shotimes] rod bearings

Mon, 28 Apr 2003 22:49:25 -0700

3 sizes??  Standard + 3 others is what I'm aware of to date.  Good
advice though as they aren't very expensive.  Are you talking about (6)
sets each of the non-standard sizes?

Kerry (OK, I promise to stop hammering you guys with this soon)!

-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Malachuk [mailto:bmalach1@nycap.rr.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 10:49 PM
To: Paul L Fisher
Cc: Paul Chapin; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings

I am thinking the same thing. Since my car is kinda low miles, I figure
that
the stock size would be fine. When I do it I might just buy 6 sets of
each
of the 3 sizes, and just make sure the return policy is good. I did that
with my VSS for my SLO.

I'm seriously thinking that this will be the next fun thing I do to my
SHO.
Less of course something happens in the next 2 weeks and I just "have"
to
hurry up and put my 3.2 into my car.

Bruce

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul L Fisher" <sho@paul-fisher.com>
To: "Bruce Malachuk" <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>
Cc: "Paul Chapin" <pchapin@houston.rr.com>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings

> My philosophy was that I wasn't planning on pulling the motor out to
redo
the
> crank so I just slapped in some stock sized bearings and started it
up. If
it
> spins, it spins.
>
> The question I have, if you plastigauge the new bearings and find them
out
of
> spec, what are you going to do?
>
> Paul L Fisher
> '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 172K Build date 11/18/1992
> - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
Holley
> 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar,
Performance-Plus
> Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
0W-30
> oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
>
> SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
>
> Get $5 free from Paypal!
https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
>
> Quoting Bruce Malachuk <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>:
>
> > Just outta curiosity, in replacing the rod bearings if one does it
as a
> > "preventative action" do you need to worry about different sized
bearing
> > sets?
> >
> > I'm a little confused now, whereas before this topic came up I
wasn't.
I've
> > been thinking about doing these on my car just cause I like to get
on it
a
> > little to much. Plus the previous owner was one to "lug" the car in
5th
> > gear
> > at really low RPMs.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Chapin" <pchapin@houston.rr.com>
> > To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:36 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> >
> >
> > > Many people have had success with just replacing the bearings on
the
SHO
> > if
> > > caught before they spin and do damage to the crank. I have not
seen
> > anyone
> > > post that they have had any problems with replacing the bearings
before
> > they
> > > spin. When at the point of knocking it is a gamble as to how long
> > replacing
> > > the bearings will last. If the crank is damaged then you have to
pull
the
> > > engine to remove the crank. You are now at the point of needing to
do
a
> > > complete overhaul to make it worth the effort. This if done
correctly
> > gets
> > > in the $6,000 range really quickly. Not many SHO's are worth
$6,000 so
> > that
> > > is why most just replace the bearings if they catch it before
damage
> > occurs,
> > > about a $100 job. A lot who don't catch the problem in time are
buying
> > used
> > > motors because of the high cost of a complete rebuild.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "-Newmy-" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>
> > > To: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>;
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:14 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> > >
> > >
> > > > Automatically you should be pulling the crank, machining it, and
> > > installing
> > > > the matching bearings.
> > > > ie-> .010 under on the crank,= .010 over on the bearings.
Otherwise
> > your
> > > > just looking at alot of wasted  time for nothing. Cranks, rods
and
> > > bearings
> > > > all have a very, very close tolerence. I've had it happen before
where
> > > > installing fresh bearings onto a crank or rod journal that wasnt
even
> > > making
> > > > noise, ends up knocking due to the 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch
from
> > not
> > > > machining accordingly. And with the time it would take you to
put in
> > new
> > > > bearings anyways, the little extra time is far, far worth it..
> > > > Newmy
> > > _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
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