[Shotimes] rod bearings

[Ron Porter]

Not necessary. Even with seriously bad rod bearings, see my Rod Bearing Job
at this link: 

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?username=rsporter

the rod journals are probably fine....as mine were. Just bolt in the new
bearings and move on down the road.

For the overwhelming majority of folks on this list, it's
cheaper/easier/quicker to install a used engine if the crank is bad, rather
than rebuilding what they have.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of -Newmy-
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 9:14 PM
To: Kerry Kinion; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings


Automatically you should be pulling the crank, machining it, and installing
the matching bearings.
ie-> .010 under on the crank,= .010 over on the bearings. Otherwise your
just looking at alot of wasted  time for nothing. Cranks, rods and bearings
all have a very, very close tolerence. I've had it happen before where
installing fresh bearings onto a crank or rod journal that wasnt even making
noise, ends up knocking due to the 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch from not
machining accordingly. And with the time it would take you to put in new
bearings anyways, the little extra time is far, far worth it..
Newmy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] rod bearings


> The kurtmetros site mentions only Clevit Part Number 'CB-1435P' Rod
> Bearings - 6 Sets.  Are these just the standard size ones - what if I
> need different sizes after doing the plastigage thing?  Does anyone have
> these part #'s?  Also, where do I get these bearings?  Is it a NAPA or
> Autozone available part?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kerry ('93 MTX, 111k, fresh 60k)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 2:02 PM
> To: Kerry Kinion; Shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
>
> www.kurtmetros.com is how I did mine. It took approximately 8 hours of
> actual wrench time for me.
>
> What tranny? MTX or ATX? MTX is easier since the oil pan bolts are
> easier to
> get to.
>
> Let me know if you have any specific questions after you read Kurt's
> site.
> Where are you located?
>
> Paul L Fisher
> '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 171K Build date 11/18/1992
> - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
> Holley
> 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> Stainless Steel Y-pipe, '96 brake upgrade, Proportioning valve plugs,
> Delrin
> sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
>
> SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
>
> Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
> To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 1:44 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] rod bearings
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Well, I hooked up with Josh S. this weekend and thinks the ticking
> noise
> > is rod bearings.  Question is:  Is there any links to step by step
> > instructions (w/pictures ideally) for replacing rod bearings?  I
> > couldn't find anything on ShoTimes.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Kerry
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
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