[Shotimes] rod bearings

Tue, 29 Apr 2003 13:01:44 -0400

Low miles have nothing to do with the bearings you'll need. It is 100%
dependent on how the crank was ground from the factory. You only need
non-standard bearings if the crank needs to be re-machined.

My car had spun bearings, plus bearings that were almost gone. Paul Nimz had
bearings that were broken in half! As long as the rod journals are not
seriously scored, the engine only needs standard bearings.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bruce Malachuk
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:49 AM
To: Paul L Fisher
Cc: Paul Chapin; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings

I am thinking the same thing. Since my car is kinda low miles, I figure that
the stock size would be fine. When I do it I might just buy 6 sets of each
of the 3 sizes, and just make sure the return policy is good. I did that
with my VSS for my SLO.

I'm seriously thinking that this will be the next fun thing I do to my SHO.
Less of course something happens in the next 2 weeks and I just "have" to
hurry up and put my 3.2 into my car.

Bruce

----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul L Fisher" <sho@paul-fisher.com>
To: "Bruce Malachuk" <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>
Cc: "Paul Chapin" <pchapin@houston.rr.com>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings

> My philosophy was that I wasn't planning on pulling the motor out to redo
the
> crank so I just slapped in some stock sized bearings and started it up. If
it
> spins, it spins.
>
> The question I have, if you plastigauge the new bearings and find them out
of
> spec, what are you going to do?
>
> Paul L Fisher
> '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 172K Build date 11/18/1992
> - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
Holley
> 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000
0W-30
> oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
>
> SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
>
> Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
>
> Quoting Bruce Malachuk <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>:
>
> > Just outta curiosity, in replacing the rod bearings if one does it as a
> > "preventative action" do you need to worry about different sized bearing
> > sets?
> >
> > I'm a little confused now, whereas before this topic came up I wasn't.
I've
> > been thinking about doing these on my car just cause I like to get on it
a
> > little to much. Plus the previous owner was one to "lug" the car in 5th
> > gear
> > at really low RPMs.
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Paul Chapin" <pchapin@houston.rr.com>
> > To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 1:36 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> >
> >
> > > Many people have had success with just replacing the bearings on the
SHO
> > if
> > > caught before they spin and do damage to the crank. I have not seen
> > anyone
> > > post that they have had any problems with replacing the bearings
before
> > they
> > > spin. When at the point of knocking it is a gamble as to how long
> > replacing
> > > the bearings will last. If the crank is damaged then you have to pull
the
> > > engine to remove the crank. You are now at the point of needing to do
a
> > > complete overhaul to make it worth the effort. This if done correctly
> > gets
> > > in the $6,000 range really quickly. Not many SHO's are worth $6,000 so
> > that
> > > is why most just replace the bearings if they catch it before damage
> > occurs,
> > > about a $100 job. A lot who don't catch the problem in time are buying
> > used
> > > motors because of the high cost of a complete rebuild.
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "-Newmy-" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>
> > > To: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>;
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:14 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
> > >
> > >
> > > > Automatically you should be pulling the crank, machining it, and
> > > installing
> > > > the matching bearings.
> > > > ie-> .010 under on the crank,= .010 over on the bearings. Otherwise
> > your
> > > > just looking at alot of wasted  time for nothing. Cranks, rods and
> > > bearings
> > > > all have a very, very close tolerence. I've had it happen before
where
> > > > installing fresh bearings onto a crank or rod journal that wasnt
even
> > > making
> > > > noise, ends up knocking due to the 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch
from
> > not
> > > > machining accordingly. And with the time it would take you to put in
> > new
> > > > bearings anyways, the little extra time is far, far worth it..
> > > > Newmy
> > > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
>
>
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