[Shotimes] rod bearings

Tue, 29 Apr 2003 20:02:43 -0500

Im also sure that they all came with standard bearings.. I was only saying
that if he had bearing noise, its always best to remachine to bring the
tolerences back together again.Not doing this can destroy a perfectly usable
crank.
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
To: "'-Newmy-'" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] rod bearings

In a perfect world....of 12K rpm, 1 liter, 1,000 HP Formula 1 engines, yes.

I will bet large $$$ that every V6 SHO that Yamaha built came off the line
with std bearings. A few of us have had thoroughly trashed bearings, yet the
rod journals are fine.

Even for a 550+ HP s/c motor like Ransom has....if the journals aren't
scored badly, std rod bearings will work just fine. If you wish to be anal
and go through all of the grief, that's fine, but I'll bet you won't find
anything out of spec.

Ron

-----Original Message-----
From: -Newmy- [mailto:thenewmster@shaw.ca]
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 5:24 PM
To: Ron Porter
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings

the only way to tell is to measure the main and rod journals, to see if you
have to machine or not. you wont be a happy camper after all that work if it
starts to make noise again down the road..not worth the chance to me,
anyways..
Curt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
To: "'-Newmy-'" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>; "'Kerry Kinion'"
<kerry@kinionfurniture.com>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 10:56 AM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] rod bearings

Not necessary. Even with seriously bad rod bearings, see my Rod Bearing Job
at this link:

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?username=rsporter

the rod journals are probably fine....as mine were. Just bolt in the new
bearings and move on down the road.

For the overwhelming majority of folks on this list, it's
cheaper/easier/quicker to install a used engine if the crank is bad, rather
than rebuilding what they have.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of -Newmy-
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 9:14 PM
To: Kerry Kinion; shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings

Automatically you should be pulling the crank, machining it, and installing
the matching bearings.
ie-> .010 under on the crank,= .010 over on the bearings. Otherwise your
just looking at alot of wasted  time for nothing. Cranks, rods and bearings
all have a very, very close tolerence. I've had it happen before where
installing fresh bearings onto a crank or rod journal that wasnt even making
noise, ends up knocking due to the 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch from not
machining accordingly. And with the time it would take you to put in new
bearings anyways, the little extra time is far, far worth it..
Newmy
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 6:31 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] rod bearings

> The kurtmetros site mentions only Clevit Part Number 'CB-1435P' Rod
> Bearings - 6 Sets.  Are these just the standard size ones - what if I
> need different sizes after doing the plastigage thing?  Does anyone have
> these part #'s?  Also, where do I get these bearings?  Is it a NAPA or
> Autozone available part?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kerry ('93 MTX, 111k, fresh 60k)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 2:02 PM
> To: Kerry Kinion; Shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] rod bearings
>
> www.kurtmetros.com is how I did mine. It took approximately 8 hours of
> actual wrench time for me.
>
> What tranny? MTX or ATX? MTX is easier since the oil pan bolts are
> easier to
> get to.
>
> Let me know if you have any specific questions after you read Kurt's
> site.
> Where are you located?
>
> Paul L Fisher
> '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 171K Build date 11/18/1992
> - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
> Holley
> 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
> Stainless Steel Y-pipe, '96 brake upgrade, Proportioning valve plugs,
> Delrin
> sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
>
> SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
>
> Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kerry Kinion" <kerry@kinionfurniture.com>
> To: <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, April 28, 2003 1:44 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] rod bearings
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> > Well, I hooked up with Josh S. this weekend and thinks the ticking
> noise
> > is rod bearings.  Question is:  Is there any links to step by step
> > instructions (w/pictures ideally) for replacing rod bearings?  I
> > couldn't find anything on ShoTimes.
> >
> > Thanks!
> >
> > Kerry
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
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