[Shotimes] RE: (OT) Battery tender/maintainer
Kirk Doucette
Kirk.doucette@verizon.net
Sat, 9 Aug 2003 18:03:42 -0400
3 years with my duralast in my 97 without charging.
Kirk J Doucette
NESHOC President
Stormtrooper-97 White
-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Ron Porter
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 2:38 PM
To: 'Paul Nimz'; 'Shotimes'; 'V8List SHO'; 'SHO Tech'
Subject: [Shotimes] RE: (OT) Battery tender/maintainer
Two years of storage life isn't enough. A $35 Schumacher on a $49.95
AutoZone Duralast are going for 4 years now on the Fiero battery, and
there's almost 3 years on the Duralast in the 911, also with a Schumacher
for storage.
Ron Porter
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Nimz [mailto:niks@dlogue.net]
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 1:51 PM
To: Shotimes; V8List SHO; SHO Tech
Subject: Re: (OT) Battery tender/maintainer
One of the advantages of the Odyssey battery I'm using is it has a two year
storage life as long as the temp is below 25C. Not the reason I bough it
but....
Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
To: "Shotimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>; "V8List SHO" <v8sho@v8sho.com>
Cc: "SHO Tech" <techsho@topica.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 10:56 AM
Subject: (OT) Battery tender/maintainer
> FYI, for those with cars/boats/cycles/etc that need to have batteries
> maintained
>
> I've already got two Schumachers myself and I am pretty happy with them,
but
> these units look pretty interesting! I'll have to consider one of these
> if/when I need another one.
>
> Dennis does a comparison to the Schumacher down in his post, which I find
to
> be of interest.
>
> Ron Porter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dennis Liu [mailto:BigHeadDennis@Earthlink.net]
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 1:13 AM
> To: 911/993/996
> Subject: [911] RE: Seeking advice on battery tender/maintainer
>
>
> The "Battery Tender" by Deltran, and sometimes marketed under other names,
> is intended exactly for this purpose -- to maintain the battery. I've
used
> one on my motorcycles for several years, and the 348 and 355 as well with
no
> problems. More info can be found here:
> http://www.batterytender.com/
>
> It comes with two methods of attachment to your battery -- regular
alligator
> clamps (like on jumper cables), or a connector where the ends terminate in
> metal o-rings (like a washer). Each method connects to the charger
through
> a little plug-together connector. The o-ring connectors, intended for
> semi-permanent mounting, slip right through the bolts used to attach your
> terminals to your battery. Then simply tie down the length of the wire,
> until you have only the other connector poking out into the trunk. Thus,
> when you're in the garage, pop the lid, snap the two connectors together,
> and voila!
>
> Alternatively, one can get a charger that attaches, piggyback style, to
the
> battery (the most popular is manu. by Schumacher, and sometimes marketed
as
> a "factory" charger, e.g. Ferrair); the 120v plug is located inside the
car;
> you just have to connect an extension cord when needed.
>
> Why do I consider the Deltran method better? Well, I'm presuming that the
> Schumacher is also a computer controlled charger like the Deltran. The
> primary advantage, in my mind, is that you don't have the charger sitting
in
> the car -- only the wiring. Thus, (a) it's lighter, (b) you can use one
> charger for more than one vehicle if you alternate, (c) the wire coming
out
> of the trunk is thinner and you can in fact close the lid with the wire
> dangling out, if you wanted to so you can put the cover over the car, (d)
I
> guess if the car gets stolen, you didn't lose the charger as well, (e) if
> the circuit breaker (or whatever) inside the Schumacher fails, it melts
> INSIDE the car, right next to your battery; I'd prefer to have the thing
> melt down outside my car, not in it!!, and (f) another "clean" method of
> attaching a battery tender is to go to Radio Shack and buy a cigarette
> lighter adapter with a 9 foot cord attached. Then wire this into the
"hard
> wire" connector kit, by removing the o-ring connectors and splicing in the
> cigarette adapter instead. No having to pop the hood anymore, just remove
> cigarette lighter and plug in, provided that the cigarette lighter is
> POWERED when the key is off.
>
> vty,
>
> --Dennis
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