[Shotimes] Re: Heater host Q

Mon, 25 Aug 2003 01:15:09 -0500

I had a Triumph TR7 with dual Stromberg side draft one barrel carbs.  The
had a slide cup (?) that worked as a throttle plate I think.  IO did have
these freeze up on me once.  had to splash a little methanol on them as the
car slowly slowed down to nothing due to restricted throttle opening.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>
To: "'Ron Porter'" <ronporter@prodigy.net>; "'Edward Mazurek'"
<emazurek@cisco.com>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 11:16 AM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Re: Heater host Q


> > It's not necessarily a cold climate thing.
>
>
> Correct, it is not a cold weather phenom.  My airplane, and all
> combustion-engine airplanes, have a 'carb heat control knob'.  Actuating
the
> knob allows hot air, heated by a shroud around the exhaust manifold, to
> enter the induction system and prevent (or melt) ice.
>
> If the outside air temp is between 20F and 70F with visible moisture OR
high
> humidity, ice may form in the TB.  Also, during low or closed throttle
> settings, the TB is particularly susceptible to icing.
>
> The vaporization of fuel, combined with the expansion of air as it passes
> the partially open throttle plate, causes a sudden cooling of the mixture.
> The temp of the air is it passes thru the TB may drop as much as 60F
within
> a fraction of a second.  So even if it's 70F outside, the temp after the
> throttle plate could be 70-60=10F!!!  Water vapor is squeezed out by this
> cooling, and if the temp in the TB reaches 32F or below, the moisture will
> be deposited as ice just beyond the throttle plate.
>
> If this happens in you car, no big deal, and the engine may cough,
sputter,
> stall, and you coast to a stop.  If this happens in an airplane, you could
> be in a world of trouble if you're too low or there's not a suitable
landing
> area nearby.
>
>
>
> Jim Ryan
> Wayne, NJ
> '91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
spoiler
>
> 255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO
Shop
> HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
pulleys,
> SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
> engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS
'96
> SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni adj
> struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
> STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
> grille
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Ron Porter
> > Sent: Sunday, August 24, 2003 10:56 AM
> > To: 'Edward Mazurek'
> > Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Re: Heater host Q
> >
> > Eliminating the TB water will make it much easier to get air out of the
> > cooling system, as that TB area is the high point of the cooling system.
> >
> > It's not necessarily a cold climate thing. Once the car is hot, the TB
> > gets
> > enough heat from the engine, anyway.
> >
> > Wish I would have saved the article, but the TB water is to cover one or
> > two
> > very unusual circumstances that can occur just after cold starts
(remember
> > the water doesn't get hot for a few minutes, anyway). It was something
> > like
> > having a car in a cool garage, then driving it out into warm, humid air
> > (as
> > you would have in a southern climate), and there was another situation
> > that
> > I don't recall.
> >
> > Remember that the car makers have to make products that work well in all
> > climates and all altitudes. Some of the seemingly weird stuff they
> > sometimes
> > do is to allow for some unorthodox operating situations somewhere in
their
> > market area.
> >
> > Ron Porter
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Edward Mazurek
> > Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2003 7:24 PM
> > To: bobsteig@att.net
> > Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Heater host Q
> >
> >
> > In warmer climates it's probably OK to do this. In colder climates I
guess
> > the TB could ice up if the conditions were right.
> >
> > I'm sure others have more empirical information though.
> >
> > Ed
> >
> > bobsteig@att.net wrote:
> >
> > >Hi,
> > >
> > >What's the story with this, how can you get away w/o these hoses? Is
> > there
> > an
> > >advantage to bypassing the TB? (by TB I'm guessing you mean throttle
> > body)
> > >Does it make it easier to drain and replace the coolant? What about
> > >overheating the top end? I've seen this mentioned before and got
curious.
> > >
> > >Thanks, BB-NYC '89
> > >
> > >
> > >emazurek@cisco.com>, <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > >Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Heater host Q
> > >Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 10:54:12 -0500
> > >
> > >  As far as the TB and IAC hoses just chuck them and put
> > >a piece that runs from the coolant pipe back to the block....
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