[Shotimes] 60,000 mile check -- tools and supplies

[Donald Mallinson]

Al and others,

The 60k mantra is pretty well known, but we don't want to 
get some incorrect information out there.

We know from long experience that valves CAN get out of 
adjustment before 100,000 miles.  Also shims can wear.

The basic advice that I have given for years is this:

Cam belt can go 100,000 miles on the MTX or ATX, but try to 
get it changed by that time, although we have experience 
with many cars going 150,000 and beyond.

If you DO replace the cam belt, it is a good idea to 
consider replacing the crank sensor and water pump. 
Although Al, the water pump doesn't always go by 100,000 
miles, we know that a lot of them do.  Evidence of leakage 
around the weep hole (trail of different color from the 
hole, even when dry) on the water pump means it is time to 
replace.  Cam sensor isn't that expensive and while there, 
why not do it.

Yes, you can get along without both, but if you have the 
front of the motor apart anyway for a belt, that is the 
bigger part of the labor involved with changing the other 
two.  IF you plan on keeping the car a long time, then 
consider changing those two items with the cam belt.

As for the valve check, getting the intake off LOOKS 
intimidating for the first timer, but is really easy once 
you do it one time.  And not expensive.  Gaskets CAN be 
reused if in good shape.  The best advice, is that if the 
valves are quiet, chances are you are in good shape.  IF the 
engine is getting some valve noise, then pull the covers and 
check at least the first 100,000 miles, than it would be a 
good idea to check the shims/clearance (while in there) 
every 50-60,000 after that.

At 140,000 I replaced three exhaust shims, and this is 
pretty typical.  They were just on the edge of the range, 
and while there, I went ahead and changed them.  I optimized 
a few others while there since it didn't take that much more 
time.

The shims DO wear out, sometimes even with regular obsessive 
oil changes on cars driven easy.  Probably because of poor 
heat treating or metal on a few shims, it happens.

If a shim goes, it can take a cam lobe out in short order, 
so that is the reason for regular checks.

I isn't a good idea to take the attitude "if it isn't broke, 
don't fix it" when parts are so expensive, and down time so 
unhandy.  Also, once you have done it, removing the intake 
and valve covers is an easy job.  For those that haven't 
done it, Josh's 60k video is a good investment.

Don

George Fourchy wrote:

> On Tue, 2 Dec 2003 16:06:53 -0800, Al Fitz wrote:
> 
> 
>>I know I'll
>>hear a bunch of shit about that but it is so unusual to find one that needs
>>re-shimmed if the car has had regular oil changes.
> 
> 
> I'll agree with Al on this....as many of you older listmembers know, my car went
> 201k before the cam covers came off, and there was one valve that was .02 off of the
> desired spec.  We changed that shim so I'd see how it was done, but the others are
> still the way they came from the factory.  That was 62k miles ago.  That was also
> the only valve adjustment it'll get on its way to 300K miles.
> 
> Its replacement has a +/- 70K  3.2 engine blessed by Mark Nunnally.  Unless I hear
> something REALLY strange coming from it, it won't ever get a valve adjustment during
> its admittedly more leisurely journey to the ripe old age of 30 years.  Oil changes
> every 3K miles are the secret, and I'm sticking with it.
> 
> George