[Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)

[don donelson]

All parts will be interchangable.

IF you want the simplist procedure get a 3. 0 motor. If u are pretty
mechanically inclined and the price is about the same get a 3.2 motor and do
the 3.2 motor conversion.

This is a e-mail i sent someone about pulling the motor. I will not swear its
totally complete but it should give u a really good insight on what you have
to do to get the motor out.

Air tools are not mandatory but advisable. And a complete aresenal of tools is
a must to attempt this job.

Hopes this helps .....

dond
91 Super SHO II

All work & assembly done by yours truly  : )

-3.2 ATX block
-FPS hi-flow heads w/  over sized valves
-Stage I cams
-SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
-Ported intake & runners
-Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
-Hi-flow catless Y pipe
-Hi-flow exhaust
-BBB
-SHO SHOP T.B.
-SHONUT phenolic spacers
-Quaife
-CAI
-UDP
****
-Cowl hood
-Momo 17x8 rims
-Police grill
-Custom two tone interior
-Complete sunpro gauges
oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
****
-Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
-Polyurethane at all corners
-Solid-sub frame bushings
-Frame stiffners
-Adjustable rear control arms
-Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
****
-12" rotors at all four corners
-Steel braided lines
----- Original Message -----
From: don donelson
To: David Griffin
Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)




david


U have to pull the motor and tranny out together since they are attached to
one another and the tranny is attached to the sub frame.

There would be nothing per say to hold the tranny up if u removed just the
motor unless u supported it.Its the easy way to do it .. tranny and motor.

I disconnect the hood supports and push the hood almost 90 degrees ....  I use
a bolt and heavy duty wire and attach it to the hood and the other end of the
wire is tied down to the trunk .This allows the hood totally out of the way
with out taking it off .

U remove your engine dampners ... your radiator ... cooling fan .... and the
wiring up front is disconnected ... relay .... fan ... alt .. etc.  U remove
the ground straps to the eec ... and disconnect the ground strap to the engine
and the large vacumn line. I actually remove the relay .... coolant bottle
comes out .. etc .... is this a 5spd ?  This is based on 5spd. I have never
done a atx.

U disconnect the BPS sensor ... just follow the main harness that starts by
the battery  trails behind the motor ..... and disconnect the obvious. first
motor i did .. i disconnected way to much .... and got one harness reversed ..
ie color codes ! You undo the main EEC harnes to the EEC ( 10 mm ) and just
work your way around the motor disconnecting the wires.

You disconnect your odometer cable ... connector to the rack .... speed sensor
connector at the tranny in the back were the odometer plugs into .... back up
sensor ( on tranny ) and clutch cable.

Rewmove the three main wire connectors  on the main wire harness that is under
the TB .. the wires lead to the drivers side strut tower  .... they need to be
disconnect ... Disconnect the TB cables for gas and cruise at the TB. Of
course remove your air cleanor ..etc

U have a your cruise connector .... your valve that sucks fumes into the
charcoal cannister ... these have to be disconnected ... and remember ... just
use different colored zip locks in different areas of the motor .... one color
goes on boths sides of the connector.

Under the motor, you will have to disconnect the half shafts ..... 02 sensors
.... cats come off etc. U will remove the tranny side bolts that hold the
tranny in ... 2 15 mm ... and the engine dampner ... 2  15 mm nuts ( silver
).

You will disconnect the motor mount nuts... ( 2 ) think they are 21 mm.

Once all this is done .... and u have taken several looks ...u want to connect
your chains ..... two the tranny bolts in the back .....

I do also remove the back up sensor ( top of the tranny .. 24 mm i believe )
...... and the eec sensor were one chain will rest againts .. usually breaks
it ... right side under the TB. and goes into one of the cooling jackets in
the head below.

I cut ... the rear hoses ...... to heater core ..... If u reuse them  be real
careful ... the heater core since its alumium can break ..... at the welds ...
so dont bend those lines .. or push on them ! Disconnect the 2 metal coolant
lines ..remove the big hose to the water pump ) radiator is already removed.
Remove the T stat housing ....  Also remove the metal plate that holds the
wiring harness and protects it from the fork on the tranny. Some cars that
have been worked on this piece isnt there anymore .... no biggie.

Once this is all done ... u hook your chain ... I try to grab on to with four
locations ...... so the motor/tranny comes up straight.

Once u start lifting the motor up .... about say ... 4 inches ... and u can
push the motor forward towards u .... u want to get into the back to undo the
HIgh pressure pwr steering line ... 18 mm this is hard to do and i recommend a
18 mm wrench that is 4 sided .... so u can get a good grip.

If u cant break it loose undo the whole pump .. have had to do that too .

once this is undone .... engine comes up ... u will have a tight fit with a
brake line .getting it to clear the tranny ....

Ah ... u will have to have the special connections to undo the fuel lines ....
and a/c lines ..... u want to evacutate your a/c first ....

Fuel lines are easy ... to get undone... dependent on the age of the a/c lines
.....they are a real bitch to get off.

They're are two lines u have to remove .... one a/c line goes to the a/c
muffler in front of the motor. The other goes from the compressor to the
accumulator. This is the one thats really hard to break free.

Once these are done ..... engine should come out.

Remember .... I tried to remember the steps ... not in order .... i could have
missed some ..... just when u pull the motor up ... go a few inches ...... and
check for connections that u missed ..... until u are sure the motor is clear
.... than up and away.


no/charge

just tell the shotimers what a swell guy i am !

ha




dond
91 Super SHO II

All work & assembly done by yours truly  : )

-3.2 ATX block
-FPS hi-flow heads w/  over sized valves
-Stage I cams
-SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
-Ported intake & runners
-Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
-Hi-flow catless Y pipe
-Hi-flow exhaust
-BBB
-SHO SHOP T.B.
-SHONUT phenolic spacers
-Quaife
-CAI
-UDP
****
-Cowl hood
-Momo 17x8 rims
-Police grill
-Custom two tone interior
-Complete sunpro gauges
oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
****
-Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
-Polyurethane at all corners
-Solid-sub frame bushings
-Frame stiffners
-Adjustable rear control arms
-Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
****
-12" rotors at all four corners
-Steel braided lines
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: David Griffin
  To: don donelson
  Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 7:19 PM
  Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)


  Is it necsessary to pull motor and tranny together?
  You speak of the right tools, are there any special tools that I need? I'm
going to rent a compressor and some air tools, that should speed things up a
bit.
  Are there any really tricky sections of engine removal that I should be
aware of? As I said, the shop manual makes it sound fairly simple.
  Thanks for your help with this matter.
  If I had an extra $1000 I would just let Doug do it. :-(

  David Griffin
  89 SHO 178k
  90 SHO 88k
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: don donelson
    To: David Griffin
    Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 5:14 PM
    Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)


    David

    Geess so much goes into a engine swap .... I wouldnt know wear to start.

    I have no idea of your expertise or the tools u have available to you.
With that said ... I have been pulling SHO motors for 3 years ..... replaced
over a dozen and now work on cust pay SHO's.

    What i will tell u is that u need to be very familiar with these engines
to remove them and put them back in .... the sunday mechanic i would advice
against. I started doing brakes ..... than took the intake off ...and slowly
worked further into the motor and finally doing 60 k's. I learned how to take
trannies out and lastly .. pull motors.

    I will tell u that I buy colored zip locs at Home Depot .... and use these
to attach to the wiring harness as I disconnect the engine from the harness.
This helps immensley and gives u confidence of hooking everything back up
right  and forgetting anything .ie ground straps .. etc.

    It takes me a good morning ... 5 hours of work ... with all the right
tools..... air compressor etc ... to get the engine to were its ready to come
out ... than what ever prep u are going to do with the new engine .. swapping
over accesories ..... etc .... than installing the new motor ... with your old
wire harness on it .....and putting the new motor back in. 3 days ..... if u
are a mechanic .... have all the tools ...sure why not. IF not .... your
pushing it especially if u dont have the right tools.

    I also remove the cooling fan, radiator ....  all the things below ... ie
half shafts .etc ..... to get the motor and tranny out at the same time.

    Besides what I have already told u ...if there are any specific questions
you would Like addressed ... let me know ..

    Hope this helps.



    dond
    91 Super SHO II