[Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement

[David P]

Remove the LCA from the knuckle, then you can push the knuckle down and off
of the strut.

I've never found a front suspension that would freely drop down that far
without torqueing the crap out of it, but then I've never worked on a Gen1,
either, and I've also never worked on a decrepit Taurii or Sable, since I
maintain the vehicles my extended family drives fairly well. I can see one
with worn-out bushing coming off easily, but I've leveraged 200Lbs on a
six-foot long 2x4, between the LCA and the subframe, and the suspension
obviously does not want to go that far. Maybe you've got special Taurii with
extended travel suspension or something where you reside.


David P

95MTX



~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Fisher" <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
To: "'David P'" <jpotter8@bellsouth.net>; "'SHOtimes'"
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 19:48
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement


> I have Al SF bushings and have removed the front struts on many SHO's
> countless times and have never had a problem hammering down on the
> spindle.
>
> As far as difficulty in reattaching the strut spring assembly, I was
> referring to attaching it to the car with the spindle/brakes/rotors all
> attached. It isn't light to do it that way. However, if you are removing
> it that way, because you couldn't do it separately, how are you managing
> to reinstall it separately?
>
> Ian
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David P
> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 5:46 PM
> To: 'SHOtimes'
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
>
>
> For those of us that maintain all the rubber components in the front
> suspension, hammering down the spindle does not work, at least on the
> five different Taurii/Sables that I've maintained, the suspension does
> not want to go down that far, even when leveraging a 6 foot 2x4 on the
> torque arm. Maybe if all the bushings were worn out it could be done.
> With aluminum SFB's, TPR LCA bushings, and good condition LCA, it's just
> not gonna happen without a lot of sweat, and the point here is to make
> the job as easy as possible.
>
> As far as lifting the strut and spring back into the tower, they are not
> that heavy. I've done it with one hand on the strut, balancing the
> spring on it's perch, and the other on a jack many times. I by no means
> have stupendous upper body strength. You do this first, THEN attach the
> knuckle back to the strut.
>
>
> David P
>
> 95MTX
>
>
>
> ~
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ian Fisher" <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
> To: "'SHOtimes'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 10:39
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
>
>
> > And how do you lift an entire knuckle/strut assembly back onto the car
>
> > that weighs more than I care to remember? I have never needed to
> > remove the LCA bolt to remove the front struts. I simply hammer down
> > on the spindle to pop the strut out and push down on the LCA with a
> > prybar. The top 3 nuts at the top are unfastened last.
> >
> > Ian
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> > [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Fanning
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 10:28 AM
> > To: SHOtimes
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
> >
> >
> > Or the LCA to subframe bolt.
> >
> >     Alan
> >
> > >
> > > To get out the front springs, it does help to remove the LCA from
> > > the knuckle.
> > >
> > > Tech states to replace the LCA pinch bolt, and probably the strut
> > > pinch bolt as well. I'd only replace the LCA pinch bolt, and then
> > > only
> >
> > > if the crush nut does not seem to apply enough force on the bolt
> > > (and even then, I usually take a mallet to the nut and crush it a
> > > bit more to provide good torque on the bolt).
> > >
> > > David P
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