[Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
David P
jpotter8@bellsouth.net
Wed, 5 Feb 2003 14:17:58 -0500
Nice price.
David P
95MTX
~
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kirk Doucette" <Kirk.doucette@verizon.net>
To: "don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com>; "Michael Tulloch"
<teach200513760@yahoo.com>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 10:45
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
> 80k 3.0l here for sale.. and its complete as in pulled from car with
> subframe attached and sitting on ground. Anyone want? 350.00
>
> Kirk J Doucette
> NESHOC President
> Stormtrooper-97 White
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of don donelson
> Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 10:25 AM
> To: Michael Tulloch
> Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
>
> All parts will be interchangable.
>
> IF you want the simplist procedure get a 3. 0 motor. If u are pretty
> mechanically inclined and the price is about the same get a 3.2 motor and
do
> the 3.2 motor conversion.
>
> This is a e-mail i sent someone about pulling the motor. I will not swear
> its
> totally complete but it should give u a really good insight on what you
have
> to do to get the motor out.
>
> Air tools are not mandatory but advisable. And a complete aresenal of
tools
> is
> a must to attempt this job.
>
> Hopes this helps .....
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
>
> All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
>
> -3.2 ATX block
> -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> -Stage I cams
> -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> -Ported intake & runners
> -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> -Hi-flow exhaust
> -BBB
> -SHO SHOP T.B.
> -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> -Quaife
> -CAI
> -UDP
> ****
> -Cowl hood
> -Momo 17x8 rims
> -Police grill
> -Custom two tone interior
> -Complete sunpro gauges
> oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> ****
> -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> -Polyurethane at all corners
> -Solid-sub frame bushings
> -Frame stiffners
> -Adjustable rear control arms
> -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> ****
> -12" rotors at all four corners
> -Steel braided lines
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: don donelson
> To: David Griffin
> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
>
>
> david
>
>
> U have to pull the motor and tranny out together since they are attached
to
> one another and the tranny is attached to the sub frame.
>
> There would be nothing per say to hold the tranny up if u removed just the
> motor unless u supported it.Its the easy way to do it .. tranny and motor.
>
> I disconnect the hood supports and push the hood almost 90 degrees .... I
> use
> a bolt and heavy duty wire and attach it to the hood and the other end of
> the
> wire is tied down to the trunk .This allows the hood totally out of the
way
> with out taking it off .
>
> U remove your engine dampners ... your radiator ... cooling fan .... and
the
> wiring up front is disconnected ... relay .... fan ... alt .. etc. U
remove
> the ground straps to the eec ... and disconnect the ground strap to the
> engine
> and the large vacumn line. I actually remove the relay .... coolant bottle
> comes out .. etc .... is this a 5spd ? This is based on 5spd. I have
never
> done a atx.
>
> U disconnect the BPS sensor ... just follow the main harness that starts
by
> the battery trails behind the motor ..... and disconnect the obvious.
first
> motor i did .. i disconnected way to much .... and got one harness
reversed
> ..
> ie color codes ! You undo the main EEC harnes to the EEC ( 10 mm ) and
just
> work your way around the motor disconnecting the wires.
>
> You disconnect your odometer cable ... connector to the rack .... speed
> sensor
> connector at the tranny in the back were the odometer plugs into .... back
> up
> sensor ( on tranny ) and clutch cable.
>
> Rewmove the three main wire connectors on the main wire harness that is
> under
> the TB .. the wires lead to the drivers side strut tower .... they need
to
> be
> disconnect ... Disconnect the TB cables for gas and cruise at the TB. Of
> course remove your air cleanor ..etc
>
> U have a your cruise connector .... your valve that sucks fumes into the
> charcoal cannister ... these have to be disconnected ... and remember ...
> just
> use different colored zip locks in different areas of the motor .... one
> color
> goes on boths sides of the connector.
>
> Under the motor, you will have to disconnect the half shafts ..... 02
> sensors
> .... cats come off etc. U will remove the tranny side bolts that hold the
> tranny in ... 2 15 mm ... and the engine dampner ... 2 15 mm nuts (
silver
> ).
>
> You will disconnect the motor mount nuts... ( 2 ) think they are 21 mm.
>
> Once all this is done .... and u have taken several looks ...u want to
> connect
> your chains ..... two the tranny bolts in the back .....
>
> I do also remove the back up sensor ( top of the tranny .. 24 mm i
believe )
> ...... and the eec sensor were one chain will rest againts .. usually
breaks
> it ... right side under the TB. and goes into one of the cooling jackets
in
> the head below.
>
> I cut ... the rear hoses ...... to heater core ..... If u reuse them be
> real
> careful ... the heater core since its alumium can break ..... at the welds
> ...
> so dont bend those lines .. or push on them ! Disconnect the 2 metal
coolant
> lines ..remove the big hose to the water pump ) radiator is already
removed.
> Remove the T stat housing .... Also remove the metal plate that holds the
> wiring harness and protects it from the fork on the tranny. Some cars that
> have been worked on this piece isnt there anymore .... no biggie.
>
> Once this is all done ... u hook your chain ... I try to grab on to with
> four
> locations ...... so the motor/tranny comes up straight.
>
> Once u start lifting the motor up .... about say ... 4 inches ... and u
can
> push the motor forward towards u .... u want to get into the back to undo
> the
> HIgh pressure pwr steering line ... 18 mm this is hard to do and i
recommend
> a
> 18 mm wrench that is 4 sided .... so u can get a good grip.
>
> If u cant break it loose undo the whole pump .. have had to do that too .
>
> once this is undone .... engine comes up ... u will have a tight fit with
a
> brake line .getting it to clear the tranny ....
>
> Ah ... u will have to have the special connections to undo the fuel lines
> ....
> and a/c lines ..... u want to evacutate your a/c first ....
>
> Fuel lines are easy ... to get undone... dependent on the age of the a/c
> lines
> .....they are a real bitch to get off.
>
> They're are two lines u have to remove .... one a/c line goes to the a/c
> muffler in front of the motor. The other goes from the compressor to the
> accumulator. This is the one thats really hard to break free.
>
> Once these are done ..... engine should come out.
>
> Remember .... I tried to remember the steps ... not in order .... i could
> have
> missed some ..... just when u pull the motor up ... go a few inches ......
> and
> check for connections that u missed ..... until u are sure the motor is
> clear
> .... than up and away.
>
>
> no/charge
>
> just tell the shotimers what a swell guy i am !
>
> ha
>
>
>
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
>
> All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
>
> -3.2 ATX block
> -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> -Stage I cams
> -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> -Ported intake & runners
> -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> -Hi-flow exhaust
> -BBB
> -SHO SHOP T.B.
> -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> -Quaife
> -CAI
> -UDP
> ****
> -Cowl hood
> -Momo 17x8 rims
> -Police grill
> -Custom two tone interior
> -Complete sunpro gauges
> oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> ****
> -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> -Polyurethane at all corners
> -Solid-sub frame bushings
> -Frame stiffners
> -Adjustable rear control arms
> -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> ****
> -12" rotors at all four corners
> -Steel braided lines
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Griffin
> To: don donelson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
> Is it necsessary to pull motor and tranny together?
> You speak of the right tools, are there any special tools that I need?
I'm
> going to rent a compressor and some air tools, that should speed things up
a
> bit.
> Are there any really tricky sections of engine removal that I should be
> aware of? As I said, the shop manual makes it sound fairly simple.
> Thanks for your help with this matter.
> If I had an extra $1000 I would just let Doug do it. :-(
>
> David Griffin
> 89 SHO 178k
> 90 SHO 88k
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: don donelson
> To: David Griffin
> Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 5:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
> David
>
> Geess so much goes into a engine swap .... I wouldnt know wear to
start.
>
> I have no idea of your expertise or the tools u have available to you.
> With that said ... I have been pulling SHO motors for 3 years .....
replaced
> over a dozen and now work on cust pay SHO's.
>
> What i will tell u is that u need to be very familiar with these
engines
> to remove them and put them back in .... the sunday mechanic i would
advice
> against. I started doing brakes ..... than took the intake off ...and
slowly
> worked further into the motor and finally doing 60 k's. I learned how to
> take
> trannies out and lastly .. pull motors.
>
> I will tell u that I buy colored zip locs at Home Depot .... and use
> these
> to attach to the wiring harness as I disconnect the engine from the
harness.
> This helps immensley and gives u confidence of hooking everything back up
> right and forgetting anything .ie ground straps .. etc.
>
> It takes me a good morning ... 5 hours of work ... with all the right
> tools..... air compressor etc ... to get the engine to were its ready to
> come
> out ... than what ever prep u are going to do with the new engine ..
> swapping
> over accesories ..... etc .... than installing the new motor ... with your
> old
> wire harness on it .....and putting the new motor back in. 3 days ..... if
u
> are a mechanic .... have all the tools ...sure why not. IF not .... your
> pushing it especially if u dont have the right tools.
>
> I also remove the cooling fan, radiator .... all the things below ...
> ie
> half shafts .etc ..... to get the motor and tranny out at the same time.
>
> Besides what I have already told u ...if there are any specific
> questions
> you would Like addressed ... let me know ..
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
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