[Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)

Ron Nottingham nottingham@alltel.net
Wed, 5 Feb 2003 16:58:17 -0500


When I replaced the the engine in my 90, I took it out through the top, and
left the gearbox in.  Pretty easy, no hammers needed.  Going back in wasn't
bad either.  Just have to get the tilt right pulling the engine out, putting
it back in (tilt on both the engine and gearbox).  The next time I take the
engine out, I may pull the gearbox also, just for giggles.

Ron N. - Dalton, GA
90 SHO
"It takes a man to suffer ignorance and smile"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Fisher" <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>


> I pulled a much larger 3.2/ATX out from the top, but it was a tight fit.
> I also didn't care about the car that I was pulling it out of, so if I
> had to put a hammer against the frame rail and pry a bit, it didn't
> matter so much.
>
> Having done that, I believe that the 3.0/MTX could come out the top, but
> you run the risk of breaking more things (I'd think). Easy does it, in
> either case.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>
> I'd like to add that you can pull the engine out the top after sliding
> the tranny off it. You have to drop the subframe, then lower the tranny
> side a bit to clear the body. I do NOT know if the engine and tranny can
> both come out the top. I mention this only because dropping the motor
> out the bottom may not be an option for some of us that don't have the
> means to get the car up high enough to clear the top of the motor. Of
> course, the height can be reduced by removing the intake during the
> process.
>
> I vaguely remember a post a few years back by someone that had pulled
> the MTX/3.0 combo out the top. Anyone care to comment?
>
> ~
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com>
>
> > All parts will be interchangable.
> >
> > IF you want the simplist procedure get a 3. 0 motor. If u are pretty
> > mechanically inclined and the price is about the same get a 3.2 motor
> > and
> do
> > the 3.2 motor conversion.
> >
> > This is a e-mail i sent someone about pulling the motor. I will not
> > swear
> its
> > totally complete but it should give u a really good insight on what
> > you
> have
> > to do to get the motor out.
> >
> > Air tools are not mandatory but advisable. And a complete aresenal of
> tools is
> > a must to attempt this job.
> >
> > Hopes this helps .....
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: don donelson
> >
> > U have to pull the motor and tranny out together since they are
> > attached
> to
> > one another and the tranny is attached to the sub frame.
> >
> > There would be nothing per say to hold the tranny up if u removed just
>
> > the motor unless u supported it.Its the easy way to do it .. tranny
> > and motor.
> >
> > I disconnect the hood supports and push the hood almost 90 degrees
> > ....  I
> use
> > a bolt and heavy duty wire and attach it to the hood and the other end
>
> > of
> the
> > wire is tied down to the trunk .This allows the hood totally out of
> > the
> way
> > with out taking it off .
> >
> > U remove your engine dampners ... your radiator ... cooling fan ....
> > and
> the
> > wiring up front is disconnected ... relay .... fan ... alt .. etc.  U
> remove
> > the ground straps to the eec ... and disconnect the ground strap to
> > the
> engine
> > and the large vacumn line. I actually remove the relay .... coolant
> > bottle comes out .. etc .... is this a 5spd ?  This is based on 5spd.
> > I have
> never
> > done a atx.
> >
> > U disconnect the BPS sensor ... just follow the main harness that
> > starts
> by
> > the battery  trails behind the motor ..... and disconnect the obvious.
> first
> > motor i did .. i disconnected way to much .... and got one harness
> reversed ..
> > ie color codes ! You undo the main EEC harnes to the EEC ( 10 mm ) and
> just
> > work your way around the motor disconnecting the wires.
> >
> > You disconnect your odometer cable ... connector to the rack ....
> > speed
> sensor
> > connector at the tranny in the back were the odometer plugs into ....
> > back
> up
> > sensor ( on tranny ) and clutch cable.
> >
> > Rewmove the three main wire connectors  on the main wire harness that
> > is
> under
> > the TB .. the wires lead to the drivers side strut tower  .... they
> > need
> to be
> > disconnect ... Disconnect the TB cables for gas and cruise at the TB.
> > Of course remove your air cleanor ..etc
> >
> > U have a your cruise connector .... your valve that sucks fumes into
> > the charcoal cannister ... these have to be disconnected ... and
> > remember ...
> just
> > use different colored zip locks in different areas of the motor ....
> > one
> color
> > goes on boths sides of the connector.
> >
> > Under the motor, you will have to disconnect the half shafts ..... 02
> sensors
> > .... cats come off etc. U will remove the tranny side bolts that hold
> > the tranny in ... 2 15 mm ... and the engine dampner ... 2  15 mm nuts
>
> > (
> silver
> > ).
> >
> > You will disconnect the motor mount nuts... ( 2 ) think they are 21
> > mm.
> >
> > Once all this is done .... and u have taken several looks ...u want to
> connect
> > your chains ..... two the tranny bolts in the back .....
> >
> > I do also remove the back up sensor ( top of the tranny .. 24 mm i
> believe )
> > ...... and the eec sensor were one chain will rest againts .. usually
> breaks
> > it ... right side under the TB. and goes into one of the cooling
> > jackets
> in
> > the head below.
> >
> > I cut ... the rear hoses ...... to heater core ..... If u reuse them
> > be
> real
> > careful ... the heater core since its alumium can break ..... at the
> > welds
> ...
> > so dont bend those lines .. or push on them ! Disconnect the 2 metal
> coolant
> > lines ..remove the big hose to the water pump ) radiator is already
> removed.
> > Remove the T stat housing ....  Also remove the metal plate that holds
>
> > the wiring harness and protects it from the fork on the tranny. Some
> > cars that have been worked on this piece isnt there anymore .... no
> > biggie.
> >
> > Once this is all done ... u hook your chain ... I try to grab on to
> > with
> four
> > locations ...... so the motor/tranny comes up straight.
> >
> > Once u start lifting the motor up .... about say ... 4 inches ... and
> > u
> can
> > push the motor forward towards u .... u want to get into the back to
> > undo
> the
> > HIgh pressure pwr steering line ... 18 mm this is hard to do and i
> recommend a
> > 18 mm wrench that is 4 sided .... so u can get a good grip.
> >
> > If u cant break it loose undo the whole pump .. have had to do that
> > too .
> >
> > once this is undone .... engine comes up ... u will have a tight fit
> > with
> a
> > brake line .getting it to clear the tranny ....
> >
> > Ah ... u will have to have the special connections to undo the fuel
> > lines
> ....
> > and a/c lines ..... u want to evacutate your a/c first ....
> >
> > Fuel lines are easy ... to get undone... dependent on the age of the
> > a/c
> lines
> > .....they are a real bitch to get off.
> >
> > They're are two lines u have to remove .... one a/c line goes to the
> > a/c muffler in front of the motor. The other goes from the compressor
> > to the accumulator. This is the one thats really hard to break free.
> >
> > Once these are done ..... engine should come out.
> >
> > Remember .... I tried to remember the steps ... not in order .... i
> > could
> have
> > missed some ..... just when u pull the motor up ... go a few inches
> > ......
> and
> > check for connections that u missed ..... until u are sure the motor
> > is
> clear
> > .... than up and away.
> >
> >
> > no/charge
> >
> > just tell the shotimers what a swell guy i am !
> >
> > ha
> >
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: David Griffin
> >
> >   Is it necsessary to pull motor and tranny together?
> >   You speak of the right tools, are there any special tools that I
> > need?
> I'm
> > going to rent a compressor and some air tools, that should speed
> > things up
> a
> > bit.
> >   Are there any really tricky sections of engine removal that I should
>
> > be aware of? As I said, the shop manual makes it sound fairly simple.
> >   Thanks for your help with this matter.
> >   If I had an extra $1000 I would just let Doug do it. :-(
> >
> >     ----- Original Message -----
> >     From: don donelson
> >
> >     Geess so much goes into a engine swap .... I wouldnt know wear to
> start.
> >
> >     I have no idea of your expertise or the tools u have available to
> > you. With that said ... I have been pulling SHO motors for 3 years
> > .....
> replaced
> > over a dozen and now work on cust pay SHO's.
> >
> >     What i will tell u is that u need to be very familiar with these
> engines
> > to remove them and put them back in .... the sunday mechanic i would
> advice
> > against. I started doing brakes ..... than took the intake off ...and
> slowly
> > worked further into the motor and finally doing 60 k's. I learned how
> > to
> take
> > trannies out and lastly .. pull motors.
> >
> >     I will tell u that I buy colored zip locs at Home Depot .... and
> > use
> these
> > to attach to the wiring harness as I disconnect the engine from the
> harness.
> > This helps immensley and gives u confidence of hooking everything back
>
> > up right  and forgetting anything .ie ground straps .. etc.
> >
> >     It takes me a good morning ... 5 hours of work ... with all the
> > right tools..... air compressor etc ... to get the engine to were its
> > ready to
> come
> > out ... than what ever prep u are going to do with the new engine ..
> swapping
> > over accesories ..... etc .... than installing the new motor ... with
> > your
> old
> > wire harness on it .....and putting the new motor back in. 3 days
> > ..... if
> u
> > are a mechanic .... have all the tools ...sure why not. IF not ....
> > your pushing it especially if u dont have the right tools.
> >
> >     I also remove the cooling fan, radiator ....  all the things below
>
> > ...
> ie
> > half shafts .etc ..... to get the motor and tranny out at the same
> > time.
> >
> >     Besides what I have already told u ...if there are any specific
> questions
> > you would Like addressed ... let me know ..
> >
> >     Hope this helps.