[Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
Ian Fisher
ianf@eden.rutgers.edu
Wed, 5 Feb 2003 17:37:22 -0500
Wow, with experience comes forgetfulness. We didn't really care about
your car either though. :P (although I think I permanently injured my
rotator cuff that day) :(
Ian "I am showing signs of old age at 23" Fisher
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Murray [mailto:fordsho@cloud9grafx.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 5:38 PM
To: 'Ian Fisher'; SHOTimes
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
Ian, how quickly you forget. We pulled my 3.0/MTX out the top as one
unit. And we didn't have to pry anything either.
Bill "Not allowed to part out cars at home anymore" Murray
-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian Fisher
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 4:43 PM
To: 'David P'
Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
I pulled a much larger 3.2/ATX out from the top, but it was a tight fit.
I also didn't care about the car that I was pulling it out of, so if I
had to put a hammer against the frame rail and pry a bit, it didn't
matter so much.
Having done that, I believe that the 3.0/MTX could come out the top, but
you run the risk of breaking more things (I'd think). Easy does it, in
either case.
Ian
-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David P
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 2:33 PM
Cc: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
I'd like to add that you can pull the engine out the top after sliding
the tranny off it. You have to drop the subframe, then lower the tranny
side a bit to clear the body. I do NOT know if the engine and tranny can
both come out the top. I mention this only because dropping the motor
out the bottom may not be an option for some of us that don't have the
means to get the car up high enough to clear the top of the motor. Of
course, the height can be reduced by removing the intake during the
process.
I vaguely remember a post a few years back by someone that had pulled
the MTX/3.0 combo out the top. Anyone care to comment?
David P
95MTX
~
----- Original Message -----
From: "don donelson" <1badsho@thenuthouse.com>
To: "Michael Tulloch" <teach200513760@yahoo.com>
Cc: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2003 10:25
Subject: [Shotimes] Fw: Engine swap (SHO)
> All parts will be interchangable.
>
> IF you want the simplist procedure get a 3. 0 motor. If u are pretty
> mechanically inclined and the price is about the same get a 3.2 motor
> and
do
> the 3.2 motor conversion.
>
> This is a e-mail i sent someone about pulling the motor. I will not
> swear
its
> totally complete but it should give u a really good insight on what
> you
have
> to do to get the motor out.
>
> Air tools are not mandatory but advisable. And a complete aresenal of
tools is
> a must to attempt this job.
>
> Hopes this helps .....
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
>
> All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
>
> -3.2 ATX block
> -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> -Stage I cams
> -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> -Ported intake & runners
> -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> -Hi-flow exhaust
> -BBB
> -SHO SHOP T.B.
> -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> -Quaife
> -CAI
> -UDP
> ****
> -Cowl hood
> -Momo 17x8 rims
> -Police grill
> -Custom two tone interior
> -Complete sunpro gauges
> oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> ****
> -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> -Polyurethane at all corners
> -Solid-sub frame bushings
> -Frame stiffners
> -Adjustable rear control arms
> -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> ****
> -12" rotors at all four corners
> -Steel braided lines
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: don donelson
> To: David Griffin
> Sent: Wednesday, January 22, 2003 1:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
>
>
> david
>
>
> U have to pull the motor and tranny out together since they are
> attached
to
> one another and the tranny is attached to the sub frame.
>
> There would be nothing per say to hold the tranny up if u removed just
> the motor unless u supported it.Its the easy way to do it .. tranny
> and motor.
>
> I disconnect the hood supports and push the hood almost 90 degrees
> .... I
use
> a bolt and heavy duty wire and attach it to the hood and the other end
> of
the
> wire is tied down to the trunk .This allows the hood totally out of
> the
way
> with out taking it off .
>
> U remove your engine dampners ... your radiator ... cooling fan ....
> and
the
> wiring up front is disconnected ... relay .... fan ... alt .. etc. U
remove
> the ground straps to the eec ... and disconnect the ground strap to
> the
engine
> and the large vacumn line. I actually remove the relay .... coolant
> bottle comes out .. etc .... is this a 5spd ? This is based on 5spd.
> I have
never
> done a atx.
>
> U disconnect the BPS sensor ... just follow the main harness that
> starts
by
> the battery trails behind the motor ..... and disconnect the obvious.
first
> motor i did .. i disconnected way to much .... and got one harness
reversed ..
> ie color codes ! You undo the main EEC harnes to the EEC ( 10 mm ) and
just
> work your way around the motor disconnecting the wires.
>
> You disconnect your odometer cable ... connector to the rack ....
> speed
sensor
> connector at the tranny in the back were the odometer plugs into ....
> back
up
> sensor ( on tranny ) and clutch cable.
>
> Rewmove the three main wire connectors on the main wire harness that
> is
under
> the TB .. the wires lead to the drivers side strut tower .... they
> need
to be
> disconnect ... Disconnect the TB cables for gas and cruise at the TB.
> Of course remove your air cleanor ..etc
>
> U have a your cruise connector .... your valve that sucks fumes into
> the charcoal cannister ... these have to be disconnected ... and
> remember ...
just
> use different colored zip locks in different areas of the motor ....
> one
color
> goes on boths sides of the connector.
>
> Under the motor, you will have to disconnect the half shafts ..... 02
sensors
> .... cats come off etc. U will remove the tranny side bolts that hold
> the tranny in ... 2 15 mm ... and the engine dampner ... 2 15 mm nuts
> (
silver
> ).
>
> You will disconnect the motor mount nuts... ( 2 ) think they are 21
> mm.
>
> Once all this is done .... and u have taken several looks ...u want to
connect
> your chains ..... two the tranny bolts in the back .....
>
> I do also remove the back up sensor ( top of the tranny .. 24 mm i
believe )
> ...... and the eec sensor were one chain will rest againts .. usually
breaks
> it ... right side under the TB. and goes into one of the cooling
> jackets
in
> the head below.
>
> I cut ... the rear hoses ...... to heater core ..... If u reuse them
> be
real
> careful ... the heater core since its alumium can break ..... at the
> welds
...
> so dont bend those lines .. or push on them ! Disconnect the 2 metal
coolant
> lines ..remove the big hose to the water pump ) radiator is already
removed.
> Remove the T stat housing .... Also remove the metal plate that holds
> the wiring harness and protects it from the fork on the tranny. Some
> cars that have been worked on this piece isnt there anymore .... no
> biggie.
>
> Once this is all done ... u hook your chain ... I try to grab on to
> with
four
> locations ...... so the motor/tranny comes up straight.
>
> Once u start lifting the motor up .... about say ... 4 inches ... and
> u
can
> push the motor forward towards u .... u want to get into the back to
> undo
the
> HIgh pressure pwr steering line ... 18 mm this is hard to do and i
recommend a
> 18 mm wrench that is 4 sided .... so u can get a good grip.
>
> If u cant break it loose undo the whole pump .. have had to do that
> too .
>
> once this is undone .... engine comes up ... u will have a tight fit
> with
a
> brake line .getting it to clear the tranny ....
>
> Ah ... u will have to have the special connections to undo the fuel
> lines
....
> and a/c lines ..... u want to evacutate your a/c first ....
>
> Fuel lines are easy ... to get undone... dependent on the age of the
> a/c
lines
> .....they are a real bitch to get off.
>
> They're are two lines u have to remove .... one a/c line goes to the
> a/c muffler in front of the motor. The other goes from the compressor
> to the accumulator. This is the one thats really hard to break free.
>
> Once these are done ..... engine should come out.
>
> Remember .... I tried to remember the steps ... not in order .... i
> could
have
> missed some ..... just when u pull the motor up ... go a few inches
> ......
and
> check for connections that u missed ..... until u are sure the motor
> is
clear
> .... than up and away.
>
>
> no/charge
>
> just tell the shotimers what a swell guy i am !
>
> ha
>
>
>
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II
>
> All work & assembly done by yours truly : )
>
> -3.2 ATX block
> -FPS hi-flow heads w/ over sized valves
> -Stage I cams
> -SHONUT adjustable timing sprockets
> -Ported intake & runners
> -Ported and extrude honed exhaust manifolds
> -Hi-flow catless Y pipe
> -Hi-flow exhaust
> -BBB
> -SHO SHOP T.B.
> -SHONUT phenolic spacers
> -Quaife
> -CAI
> -UDP
> ****
> -Cowl hood
> -Momo 17x8 rims
> -Police grill
> -Custom two tone interior
> -Complete sunpro gauges
> oil temp / water temp / oil pressure
> ****
> -Tokico shocks/Eibach springs
> -Polyurethane at all corners
> -Solid-sub frame bushings
> -Frame stiffners
> -Adjustable rear control arms
> -Battery located in trunk for better weight distrubution
> ****
> -12" rotors at all four corners
> -Steel braided lines
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Griffin
> To: don donelson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 7:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
> Is it necsessary to pull motor and tranny together?
> You speak of the right tools, are there any special tools that I
> need?
I'm
> going to rent a compressor and some air tools, that should speed
> things up
a
> bit.
> Are there any really tricky sections of engine removal that I should
> be aware of? As I said, the shop manual makes it sound fairly simple.
> Thanks for your help with this matter.
> If I had an extra $1000 I would just let Doug do it. :-(
>
> David Griffin
> 89 SHO 178k
> 90 SHO 88k
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: don donelson
> To: David Griffin
> Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 5:14 PM
> Subject: Re: Engine swap (SHO)
>
>
> David
>
> Geess so much goes into a engine swap .... I wouldnt know wear to
start.
>
> I have no idea of your expertise or the tools u have available to
> you. With that said ... I have been pulling SHO motors for 3 years
> .....
replaced
> over a dozen and now work on cust pay SHO's.
>
> What i will tell u is that u need to be very familiar with these
engines
> to remove them and put them back in .... the sunday mechanic i would
advice
> against. I started doing brakes ..... than took the intake off ...and
slowly
> worked further into the motor and finally doing 60 k's. I learned how
> to
take
> trannies out and lastly .. pull motors.
>
> I will tell u that I buy colored zip locs at Home Depot .... and
> use
these
> to attach to the wiring harness as I disconnect the engine from the
harness.
> This helps immensley and gives u confidence of hooking everything back
> up right and forgetting anything .ie ground straps .. etc.
>
> It takes me a good morning ... 5 hours of work ... with all the
> right tools..... air compressor etc ... to get the engine to were its
> ready to
come
> out ... than what ever prep u are going to do with the new engine ..
swapping
> over accesories ..... etc .... than installing the new motor ... with
> your
old
> wire harness on it .....and putting the new motor back in. 3 days
> ..... if
u
> are a mechanic .... have all the tools ...sure why not. IF not ....
> your pushing it especially if u dont have the right tools.
>
> I also remove the cooling fan, radiator .... all the things below
> ...
ie
> half shafts .etc ..... to get the motor and tranny out at the same
> time.
>
> Besides what I have already told u ...if there are any specific
questions
> you would Like addressed ... let me know ..
>
> Hope this helps.
>
>
>
> dond
> 91 Super SHO II _______________________________________________
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