[Shotimes] Uh-Oh has become Hmm?

[Ian Fisher]

I noticed that the timing bolt threads were the same for the crank
sprocket too. Too bad that I bent them into pretzels trying to get that
thing off; mine was really tight on there. I ended up putting the crank
on a tree stump outside and hammering against the puller to slide the
sprocket off while pulling the puller with vise grips. 

That was my non sequiter for today...

(and this was a motor that I was disassembling; I don't normally take my
crankshaft out)

Ian


-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Weinrich
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 11:20 AM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Uh-Oh has become Hmm?


The clips often break.  Get replacements at AutoZone or NAPA.

Crank bolt:  Unless you have a 200+ lb-ft impact wrench...use the
starter bump method.  Craftsmen has a very good warranty, just don't
tell them how you broke it...

Ignore the white marks on the timing belt after installation.  They are
only of significance then.  The Gates belt has marks for either the 3.0
or the 3.2.  I don't know about the Dayco belts, the Gates seems to be
most highly recommended.

The CID and CPS from AZ  (Wells) work just fine.  Make sure you gap the
CPS properly and check the gap on all three vanes of the timing gear.
Also inspect the gear to make sure no vanes are bent.

Crank to cam sprock alignment is critical.  Pull the dampener and the
lower timing cover and verify the timing gear dimpled tooth is aligned
with the mark on the oil pump housing.

While you're at it, put in a new front main seal.  Also available from
rockauto

Get the water pump (A1-Cardone reman) and timing belt (Gates T248) from
www.rockauto.com  Also get the O-rings for where the pump mounts to the
block and the water crossover tube.  Far better prices than NAPA.

Yes, you need a puller.  Use the loaner from AutoZone ($15 deposit) and
DON'T FORGET to use the cup that goes on the end of the bolt that goes
into the hole for the dampener bolt.  If you don't use the cup, you will
bugger the threads like I did.  If you have an MTX, you have a couple of
timing cover bolts that will come in handy for the timing gear removal.


Steve

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jonathon Beisler" <JBEIS001@stvincentshealth.com>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2003 9:26 AM
Subject: [Shotimes] Uh-Oh has become Hmm?


> Well, everyone I have a little more information and I need a lot more
help.  I took almost everything apart last night to check the bearings
and they seem to be okay.  A couple things:  When I pulled out the
splash guard every single one of those plastic clips broke.  Am I an
idiot or does that happen a lot?  What do I replace those with?  Next
question, I stopped short of removing the crank pulley because I am
hesitant to break the bolt with the starter.  Is that really the best
and easiest way?  Next, does the original timing belt have any type of
markings on it?  THe one that is in my car is just black with one white
stripe that does not align with any of the markers.  When I aligned the
markers on the cam sprockets with the markers on the inner timing cover,
the lower timing cover lined up for the most part.  How critical is
that?  The water pump looked good when I started but after I had the
timing covers off I could see what looked like coolant kind of behind it
near t!
> he CPS.  I'm assuming that's a typical sign of failure.  So, I'm just
going to replace the belt and the pump and I guess the CPS.  My question
is are there any pumps and belts that I should stay away from or what?
Napa has the best price by far on the water pump and belt.  Autozone has
the best price on the CPS and it's a Wells sensor.  I replaced the Cam
sensor with a wells. Oh, one last question, do I need a puller to get
the pulley off?  Any suggestions?  I'm not really asking for much am I?
:)  Thank you so much to every one that has responded already.
> Jonathon
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