[Shotimes] OT-94 Sable 3.8l head gasket replacement

[Gerald Harmon]

>1/ What is the proper way to check the head flatness when removed? I
>have a layout table and all the goods required. Just wondering about
>reference points when the head is inverted. Or do I just get them milled
>and not bother checking?

I have heard no more than .003" per 5" with a straight edge across the head.
The machine shop will check them first and tell you if they need it.  I did
my sister's 95 stang about 2 months ago.


>
>2/ I pulled Ford TSB 98-4-9 for the head gasket replacement. During
>re-assembly it states to do a full torque of all bolts by three
>increments following proper bolt sequence. No problem. It then states a
>complete back-off and one step re-torque of each bolt individually
>starting with long bolts (centre) and following sequence. That's the
>part in question, kinda goes against my limited knowledge of gaskets. In
>my field, the practice of re-torquing gaskets is generally not
>desirable. Is this the norm for head gaskets?

I used the Fel-Pro and they said to do this execpt they used some bullshit
torque in degrees for the final tq.  Most of the time the Re-torquing is
meant to do after a heat cycle.  But supposedly the PT number of the Fel-Pro
means no retorque but even Fel-Pro told me to re-torque mine (I'm not
refering to a 3.8L though.)   That's above is just they way they do these
torque-to-yield type bolts.

>
>3/ Finally, any tips in general wrt this procedure and/or for this
>particular motor?  E.g. is it advisable to use a gasket prep?

I used no prep execpt on the intake which it saids.  If it was my car I'd
have the heads surfaced and a valve job (if high miles) done.  Those torque
angle gauges are a PITA to use (at least the cheap one I bought was.

Good Luck,

Gerald


>
>Much thanks in advance.
>
>John Hamilton
>Ida,ON,CA
>
>'97 ES
>'91 Mocha/Mocha
>'89 S10 Blazer 2WD
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