[Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement

[David P]

DO use a new nut on the knuckle/LCA bolt, or compress the nut. If you do
not, the nut may work loose as it looses 30% of it's torque when you re-use
it. The method of retention for this nut is the same as the axle nut...

For the rest, the concern is that the threads wear out, but you can still
torque to spec if the threads are in good order. Barring corrosion, you
should be able to re-torque them maybe five times without concern.


David P

95MTX



~
----- Original Message -----
From: "James White" <greensho@crown.net>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2003 00:30
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement


> I have hammered down the spindle off of the strut several dozen times, but
> always have to use a really big and long pry bar to get the get the lower
> control arm out of the spindle, which you do first.  Now that I know just
> what and how to do it, it only takes 20 minutes to get everything apart.
>
> It is really good to have a helper on the pry bar when you have get things
> back together.
>
> I try to use a new pinch bolt and nut everytime, but many do not and don't
> seem to have any trouble.  The Helms says to use new every time, so I try.
> Get these from Josh @ shonut.  Also use a new axel nut everytime.  I have
> had these work loose, and then the wheel bearing goes south...
>
> Jim White - greensho@crown.net
> Valparaiso, Indiana
> '93  5 SPEED   276k few mods
> '95  5 SPEED   235k lots of mods
> "double clutch"  it's good for both you and your SHO
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BJamesjr@aol.com>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2003 9:51 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Re: spring and struts replacement
>
>
> > > I simply hammer down on the spindle to pop the strut
> > > out and push down on the LCA with a prybar. The top
> > > 3 nuts at the top are unfastened last.
> >
> > This worked on my 90 a couple of years ago.
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