[Shotimes] SHO drivability question

[Paul Nimz]

Most brake cleansers come in a non-chlorinated version now too.  This is
very similar to Berryman's B-12.  And usually around here on sale for $1 a
can.  I use a non-residue contact cleaner on my MAF.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR SHO
'93 EG mtx SHO


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Fisher" <ianf@eden.rutgers.edu>
To: "'Steve Weinrich'" <stevwein@swbell.net>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>;
<oneilk@charter.net>
Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 7:33 AM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] SHO drivability question


> DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER ON ENGINE PARTS. EVER. If you use significant
> amounts, you can generate chlorine gas which will render you a bit
> useless or dead.
>
> FWIW, I'd use tuner spray on the MAF electronics while the sensor is
> still in the MAF housing. Removing the sensor supposedly throws off the
> calibration of the MAF. This MAF wasn't gutted, was it? Some people
> think that it's a good idea but it doesn't work well on an SHO.
>
> Ian
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Weinrich
> Sent: Friday, February 14, 2003 7:50 AM
> To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] SHO drivability question
>
>
> Hi, Patrick,
>
> Welcome to the list.
>
> I would:
>
> 1)  Clean the MAF sensor.  It's almost free...if you have that T20
> Security Torx bit and a can of spray brake or carb cleaner.
>
> 2)  Suspect the Engine Coolant Sensor is not detecting warmup of the
> engine and is keeping the enine in warmup mode (rich)
>
> 3)  Possible O2 sensors.  Not detecting mixture properly, keeping
> mixture too rich.
>
> There are a few other possibilities, including a vacuum leak,  these
> come to mind first.
>
> My best recommendation is to run the codes first.  There is a writeup at
> the FAQ at www.shotimes.com Click on Maintenance, then scroll down to
> Engine control, then EEC Self-test Procedures.  A second source is
> http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html
>
> Good luck!.
> Steve W
> aka projectSHO89 on www.shoforum.com
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Pat" <oneilk@charter.net>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, February 13, 2003 10:52 PM
> Subject: [Shotimes] SHO drivability question
>
>
> > Hi All,
> >
> >  My name is Patrick, just joined the list today. I'm a new SHO owner,
> > but
> have
> > owned several Mustangs so I'm fairly familiar with Fords.
> >
> >   I don't wanna give you guys a bad opinion of me asking a question in
>
> > my first post, but I'm tired after working on my SHO all day and I'm
> > about
> ready
> > to pull my hair out.
> >
> >   I bought my SHO about 2 weeks ago for $1500, it's a 91' with 117,000
> miles
> > on it. It was running a bit rough and was lacking power when I bought
> > it,
> so I
> > decided the minute I got it home I'd check it out. I pulled one of the
> spark
> > plugs wires off on the front of the engine to discover the plug well
> > over
> half
> > full with oil, enough oil to almost cover the top of the spark plug. I
> then
> > began pulling the other 2 wires off only to find oil in those also.
> >
> >  Well I started looking around at websites on any info I could find on
> SHOs
> > and lucked up on SHOtimes and read about plugs, wires, and the plug
> > well seals. Knowing then what I needed to do to fix this, I started
> > gathering parts. Even the local Ford dealers didn't stock the AGSP32PP
>
> > plug so I
> ended
> > up using the NGK PFR5G-11. I had to go with Carol 8mm plug wires from
> Autozone
> > because that was all I could find without ordering them, and I needed
> > to
> get
> > the car running right as soon as I could. Grabbed the Felpro valve
> > cover gasket set, and an intake gasket set as well.
> >
> >  Today I took on replacing the vavle cover gaskets, plug well seals,
> > spark plugs, wires, and even replace the upper intake gasket to cover
> everything.
> > Before I removed the plugs I was careful to soak up and remove all the
>
> > oil from the plugs wells. I changed the plugs fast to try to ensure
> > any
> residual
> > oil didn't get down into the cylinder. I gapped the plugs @ .044. I
> > also triple checked that I had everything plugged back in when I
> > finished. When taking the car apart I found the electric solenoid on
> > the back of the
> intake
> > unplugged. I knew this was one problem.
> >
> >   Well, when I first cranked it up it purred like a kitten. I let it
> > run
> for a
> > little bit then took it out for a test drive. The car had TWICE the
> > power
> it
> > had before, and seemed to run perfect. When hitting the gas quickly
> > then letting off fast, it would rev up to around 2300 rpms. (This is a
>
> > test
> friends
> > and I used on Mustangs to check throttle response.)
> >
> >  When I got back home the car pulled the driveway better than it ever
> > has
> (I
> > have a very steep driveway), then I let it run for a minute and warm
> completly
> > up. When the car's temp got close to half way on the guage (normal
> operating
> > temp) it started to idle rough again. Doing the same test I mentioned
> before
> > (the throttle) it would only rev to around 1650 rpms. I went out and
> > drove
> it
> > again, got on it a couple times and it didn't have as much power. When
>
> > I
> got
> > back home this time it didn't pull the drive well this time, (like
> > before
> the
> > tune up.)
> >
> >   I let the car cool off and cranked it again. It idles smooth this
> > time,
> and
> > has good throttle response. Upon warming back up it start running
> > rough
> again.
> >
> >  Does anyone have any ideas where to look for this problem? It's
> > almost as
> if
> > when it the computer comes out of cold start mode it starts running
> > rough.
> >
> >   Any help at all would be greatly appriciated!!
> >
> >  Thanks,
> >  Patrick Kerns _______________________________________________
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