[Shotimes] Suspension Questions

George Fourchy George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net
Tue, 18 Feb 2003 15:11:46 -0800


On Tue, 18 Feb 2003 10:28:34 -0800, Josh Salaets wrote:

>I've heard the Moog Cargo Coil springs are the best stock replacements out
>there - what are some people's opinions?  Where's the best place to get them.

Hi Josh

(Two pager coming!)  ;-)

Cargo Coils, or the NAPA equivalent, are available at most any auto parts store. 
They're about 80 bucks a pair.  Since I got my NAPA springs for the Lowrider, NAPA
has started carrying two different ones, one for the L and one for the LX.  I'd get
the LX spring, since that car is heavier, and the spring should have a higher spring
rate.  

>While we're in there replacing the springs AGAIN, he wants to replace all the
>other wear items that we haven't replaced yet, like inner and outer tie rods,
>front swaybar endlinks, etc.  What are the best replacements for this stuff,
>and again, where should we get them?

>The car has around 125K on it right now and the alignment shop wouldn't align
>it last week because they said a front hub bearing was bad, so we plan on
>replacing both front bearings with the Ford bearings from SHOnut.  Should you
>replace the hub on these cars when you do the bearings?  If so, anyone have
>any recommendations there?  Should we replace the axles while we're in there?
>They seem fine now, but that's the way it always works - they'll be great
>until you get all of the new stuff in, and then they decide to die.  Where's
>the best place to get them?

Tie rod ends...the outers... are easy to change, as are most everything else under
there, except the inners.  You're going to have this car aligned anyway, so just
remove everything from the knuckles, pop the knuckles off the struts, and have the
bearings changed.  I didn't change the hub when I replaced the bearing on the
Lowrider, so you shouldn't have to either.  The bushings on the tension strut are
easiest to change if you remove the lower control arm, too.  Make sure you loosen
the front nut on the tension struts before you start removing anything on the rear,
otherwise the strut will spin, making loosening it harder.  LCAs are about 85 bucks
or so each....get new ones if the ones on there now are old, and have questionable
ball joints or inner bushings.  Get greasable ball jointed ones, and make sure you
grease them with at least 10 pumps of grease before you lower the car.  Remember to
jack up everything with the wheel off, putting the car's weight on the inner bushing
before you tighten it, otherwise it will be twisted.  The inner tie rod ends are
beyond MY capability to change....I can't say how hard they are or aren't.  Mine
were changed at 250K miles, and did not show wear after they were off.  If they stay
pointed up, after you move them when they are disconnected from the knuckle, they
are still good.  (Theoretically)  Axles are about 75 or 80 bucks each, exchange, at
NAPA (for me).  Mostly you'd change them to get new boots, but if there is play or
noise in the joints when turning sharp, they're worn out.  New bushings for the
tension struts come from Josh at SHONut performance...there was a group buy a while
back...maybe you can get that price.....10% discount or so, I think.

George