[Shotimes] Valve lash done.....but car seems weaker now.

[Bruce Malachuk]

thanks for the info don. I've got the 95 Helms I also used the instructions
that I was emailed from another list member and that correspondes with what
the helms was showing.

Just outta curiosity, there are some wires over near the fuel pressure reg,
there is a single yellow one there that runs into a connector, mine has some
tape wrapped around it but the wire has the insulation removed, and bare
wires are showing in a spot. It's been like this since I got the car, but
I'm wondering if in my moving things that I might have caused some kind of
short to appear.

Bruce

----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mallinson" <dmall@mwonline.net>
To: <shotimes-admin@autox.team.net>
Cc: "SHOtimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Valve lash done.....but car seems weaker now.


> Bruce,
>
> Understand that the Chilton's and other manuals that have
> the wrong wiring for early SHO's got THEIR informatin from
> the HELMS manual!  The 89 manual has the wrong wiring
> diagram.  I am not 100% sure if that was corrected in 90 and
> later HElm's manuals, maybe someone could verify that.
>
> Don Mallinson
>
> Bruce Malachuk wrote:
> > I used the helms manual for the plug wires, but I'm gonna check them
again
> > just to be sure. My rear head had very very little oil in the plug
wells, so
> > little that it barely made it up to the hole for the plug itself. I also
> > cleaned them really well, but I'm kinda thinking that perhaps some of
the
> > dielectric grease I put on the ends that plug into the coil might be
> > hampering the spark? Marc Randolph made mention about that black
cannister
> > on the back of the intake, and I know it is hooked up, and the
secondaries
> > close upon start, but perhaps it died somehow when I removed the intake,
or
> > there is corrosion in the line. That canister is easy pull off and make
sure
> > there isn't any corrosion. Is there a way to test it with a multimeter?
I'm
> > gonna start reading my taurus electrical/vac book in a second, but maybe
> > someone's seen this before. I nearly forgot the IAC myself this time
too,
> > but the idle is better than it was before the valve lash.
> >
> > There is 1 of 3 things I'm hoping it could be, that canister, the gap in
my
> > manifold to y-pipe, or the computer/running on loads of berrymans to
start
> > with. But first I need breakfast before I start on this. Any other
> > suggestions?
> >
> > Bruce
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "John Weidenbenner" <johnjweid@earthlink.net>
> > To: "Bruce Malachuk" <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>; "SHOtimes"
> > <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 8:18 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Valve lash done.....but car seems weaker now.
> >
> >
> >
> >>Two items come to mind.
> >>
> >>Double check the plug wire positions on the coil pack. The top of the
coil
> >>pack has numbers printed. The Chilton's Taurus manual has a misleading
> >
> > wire
> >
> >>location illustration. Maybe the plug wires were damaged during handling
> >
> > or
> >
> >>the plug end is severely oil soaked?
> >>
> >>You checked, but check again to see that the secondary runner controls
are
> >>hooked up. If not hooked up properly, the secondaries will stay open at
> >
> > <4k
> >
> >>rpm giving lesser performance.
> >>
> >>The computer has it's own ground wire next to the battery. It has an
> >
> > inline
> >
> >>connector so you can disconnect. Disconnect and wait 5 to 10 minutes
> >
> > before
> >
> >>reconnect. Start car and let it idle to "reboot itself".
> >>
> >>I usually forget to hook up the IAC valve electrical connector when
> >>replacing the manifold. Is idle ok?
> >>
> >>A gap in the exhaust connection big enough to stick your finger in would
> >
> > be
> >
> >>really loud!
> >>
> >>John W.
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Bruce Malachuk" <bmalach1@nycap.rr.com>
> >>To: "SHOtimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> >>Sent: Saturday, February 22, 2003 2:08 AM
> >>Subject: [Shotimes] Valve lash done.....but car seems weaker now.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>Ok so after winning records for being the slowest mechanic in the world
> >>
> >>and
> >>
> >>>nearly killing my father with flying shims of anger I got the valve
lash
> >>
> >>done.
> >>
> >>>Everything is in spec now, or tightened up to the low end of the spec.
> >>
> >>Most
> >>
> >>>were at the high middle to end of the specs.
> >>>
> >>>My valve covers are back on, everything is tq'd to waht the helm's book
> >>
> >>says,
> >>
> >>>I RTV'd the plug wells, and I fixed my leaking valve cover bolts with
> >>
> > some
> >
> >>RTV
> >>
> >>>as well. BUT there is just one problem...The car seems weak now, like
no
> >>
> >>push
> >>
> >>>you back into the seat kind of acceleration like it had prior to this
> >>
> >>endevor.
> >>
> >>>Now I know the secondaries are closing when I start the car, and i'm
> >>
> >>fairly
> >>
> >>>sure that they ar opening ontime, but something just feels weak. There
> >>
> > is
> >
> >>no
> >>
> >>>oil in the plugwells now, and the little that was there wasn't even up
> >>
> > to
> >
> >>the
> >>
> >>>bottom of the sparkplug boot. The wires are the original ones, just
> >>
> > cause
> >
> >>I
> >>
> >>>don't have the cash for new, but at 73k I really don't NEED to have
them
> >>
> >>yet.
> >>
> >>>Plugs were new 2k ago and I pilled them to check the gap and to see the
> >>>condition of them. My intake was fairly clean but I still used maybe
1/3
> >>
> > a
> >
> >>can
> >>
> >>>of berrymans on the runners and the chambers on the heads. Now I know
> >>
> > that
> >
> >>4
> >>
> >>>of the 6 sets of valves were closed and I had a little b12 on each
valve
> >>
> >>to
> >>
> >>>help breakup the cone of carbon on the back of the valve. but the car
> >>
> >>started
> >>
> >>>up with minimal sputtering. Oil is flowing like it should and the
engine
> >>>sounds normal. I did clean the coil pack and put a little dielectic
> >>
> > grease
> >
> >>on
> >>
> >>>all the ends, I'm wondering if that might be causing spark problems.
> >>>
> >>>Tomorrow in the rain/sleet/snow I'm gonna reset the comp. Clean any
> >>
> > extra
> >
> >>>dielectric greas I can off the coil pack. Make sure the secondaries are
> >>>opening @ 4k by bliping the TB linkage. If none of those things fix it,
> >>
> >>I'm
> >>
> >>>thinkign I'm gonna have to pull the intake off again and double check
> >>
> > the
> >
> >>>plugs. The car dosen't buck, skip or misfire, it just feels like
someone
> >>
> >>put a
> >>
> >>>rubberband around it's nuts. I did notice that there is a sizeable gap
> >>
> > in
> >
> >>on
> >>
> >>>the rear exhaust manifold where it meats the y-pipe. I can stick my
> >>
> > finger
> >
> >>>into it, and there is a plate there rattling around. but I knew there
> >>
> > was
> >
> >>a
> >>
> >>>leak back there for a while.
> >>>
> >>>Anyhow I need any thoughts, suggestions, whatever as to what I might be
> >>>missing. The engine feels like it runs fine, albeit quieter, but there
> >>
> > is
> >
> >>no
> >>
> >>>push you into the seat acceleration like before. Is there any way to
> >>
> > reset
> >
> >>the
> >>
> >>>computer without losing power to the rest of the car? I thought there
> >>
> > was
> >
> >>some
> >>
> >>>kind of wire that ran from the batt to the comp?
> >>>
> >>>Bruce
> >>>94 Opal Frost MTX
> >>>60k 1/2 done @ 73k
> >>>_______________________________________________
> >>
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>Shotimes mailing list
> >>Shotimes@autox.team.net
> >>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> >
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