[Shotimes] AMSOIL By-pass filter
Donald Mallinson
dmall@mwonline.net
Fri, 10 Jan 2003 11:14:38 -0600
Jim,
I have been running one on my '89 for years. I usually run
the Amsoil in it to 25,000 miles, and even then it still
tests good. The motor is doing fine at 180,000 miles.
Feel free to ask any question about the Amsoil system you
have direct to me.
About your questions:
>If so, where is the filter mounted? (looks real tight
under my hood for a dual remote filter)
I mounted a single bypass filter under the airbox on my '89,
but that space is taken up with ABS hardware on other years
SHO. If you remove the airbox and remote mount the air
filter, that might be enough space, you would have to fab a
mount. Others have mounted them in the inner fender area.
> What happens to the carcinogens that gather in the oil if
you use the Filter?
Any used oil contains carcinogens. Some of them will be
trapped in the filters (you keep your full flow filter with
any bypass system) and others remain in the oil, you
dispose of the oil like you would normally.
> How expensive are the filter catridges?
Typical bypass filter is $27 to $30 retail depending on
depth. Take off about 20% for dealer pricing.
> How often do the filter cartridges need to be changed?
Amsoil recommends 25,000 miles or others leave them on till
they literally quit flowing oil. As long as the filter is
HOT during use, it is flowing oil. When it runs cool,
change it. I change mine at 25,000 to 30,000 mile intervals.
> Is it available as a kit so I don't have to try to locate
parts from ten different sources?
Amsoil has a universal kit, and other than mounting
brackets, they have all the adapters you might need otherwise.
> Is the dual filter system compatible with good old
fashioned dino oil?
Yes, but regular oil WILL wear out. I suspect in the ship
you were on, they added fresh oil at regular intervals,
probably quite a lot of it. That is how it could continue
on. A properly running car without leaks won't use enough
oil so that just topping off will keep the additives in good
enough shape to prevent corrosion, wear etc.
> What sort of life expectancy does one see from filtered
dino oil? (I'm still not convinced about using synthetics in
a SHO motor but if anyone can show me a 250,000+ mile SHO
motor that ran on synthetics all it's life, I'd be willing
to listen)
My '89 has been on synthetics for 145,000 of its 180,000
miles. I know of other motors well beyond 200,000 with
synthetics. The proof is out there that synthetics reduce
wear, that they last longer (at least when formulated for
that duty, like Amsoil is) than regular oils, they have
better temperature (both cold and hot) characteristics.
Filtered regular oil could go 10,000 miles? It is a guess,
and lots of factors effect oil life. Health of the motor is
a big one. Lots of combustion gas leakage? Then the oil
won't last as long....head gasket leaking antifreeze? short
oil life. The best thing to do is use one of the many oil
analysis companies to check your oil about every 5000 miles.
I have been doing this. Amsoil offers quality analysis
for $14 including postage paid both ways, these are sold
through AMsoil dealers at Zero profit to the dealer, they
are a tool and will tell you a lot about your oil, head
gaskets, air filter and more.
When your cat converters failed, was it because of a bad
thermostat? In your note you seem skeptical of synthetics,
but you had a car go 200,000 before a non-oil related
failure took out the motor. And you said you used
synthetics in it. So I don't get your comment above about
doubting the use of synthetics in SHO's? Your note reads
like you used synthetics in it, but I suspect you meant to
say you used regular oil and changed it at 3000 mile
intervals....right?
Don Mallinson
Jim and Debbie Leyden wrote:
> Paul,
>
> I have been doing quite a bit of reading lately and I'm real curious about
> the Amsoil Bypass filter. I have been convinced for over thirty years that
> the major reason that we are told to change our oil at three thousand mile
> intervals is to help support our oil industry. When I was in the militay I
> worked in the engine room of a diesel powered powered ship. Each engine oil
> sump contained three hundred gallons of engine oil. The oil was NEVER
> changed and instead was run through a DeLaval Centrifigal Oil Purifier. The
> purifier was a large cetrifuge that would spin out all the particulate
> matter in the oil. The oil remained black (of course) but never the less
> was never changed. I have been kicking this thought around in my head for
> the last twenty years and have actually been looking for an oil purifier to
> purchase for my own.
>
> Now, for the questions...
>
> Do you (or anyone you know) use the Amsoil by-pass filter your SHO?
> If so, where is the filter mounted? (looks real tight under my hood for a
> dual remote filter)
> What happens to the carcinogens that gather in the oil if you use the
> Filter?
> How expensive are the filter catridges?
> How often do the filter cartridges need to be changed?
> Is it available as a kit so I don't have to try to locate parts from ten
> different sources?
> Is the dual filter system compatible with good old fashioned dino oil?
> What sort of life expectancy does one see from filtered dino oil? (I'm still
> not convinced about using synthetics in a SHO motor but if anyone can show
> me a 250,000+ mile SHO motor that ran on synthetics all it's life, I'd be
> willing to listen)
>
> Jim
> '93 MTX
>
> P.S. As far as synthetics go, my car ran for 200,000 miles before
> swallowing a catalytic converter. The engine oil was changed at 3K
> intervals and was never touched until the cat incident. At that point I
> installed new rings, bearings and put on ported and polished heads as well
> as a valve job and 60K service. The only valve shims that had to be
> replaced were a result of a valve grind job and not a single shim or cam
> lobe showed any appreciable signs of wear. If I had acess to a valve tip
> grinder I probably would not have replaced a single shim.
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