[Shotimes] Lower Control Arm Help

[Ron Porter]

To be honest with you, paying folks to do things like rear struts are well
worth it, unless:

1.  You are unemployed, a poor student, or poor because of other
circumstances, and have a lot of time (but no money).

2.  You are a true masochist who enjoys spending a weekend struggling with
parts that will break upon removal.

The strut part is OK, but the rear pinch bolts are smaller than the front
(and you managed to break a front one!!), plus there is always the joy of
getting old swaybar links off and putting new ones on.

Ron Porter 

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 1:09 PM
To: shotimes@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Lower Control Arm Help


Yep.  Lived in Cleveland it's whole life before I got it.  I'm afraid to
do the rear struts now.  I was going to do them in a couple months,
but I may pay a shop to do them now.


Mike Wojton
Toledo, Ohio

-'95 Green MTX  3/01-1/03
   ShoShop y-pipe

-'95 White MTX
   '96 Brake Upgrade

"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan



"Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net> wrote on 07/07/2003 12:19:10 PM:

> Sounds like another "Lifer Midwest SHO"!!  ;-)
> 
> Ron Porter 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net 
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
> Sent: Monday, July 07, 2003 8:23 AM
> To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Lower Control Arm Help
> 
> 
> Ha ha ha.  My drivers side control arm took a halacious beating
> to finally get it off of the rod.  Fortunately I was replacing it.
> The passengers came off easier, after spinning it on the rod to
> get out all the ancient dried out rubber.
> 
> Incidentally, I was going to remove the drivers side strut rod
> so I'd have more room to swing at it.  Got the front nut half way
> off and no farther.  Couldn't get it back on tight either.  The shop
> that did the alignment had to heat it up to get it back on.
> 
> 
> Mike Wojton
> Toledo, Ohio
> 
> -'95 Green MTX  3/01-1/03
>    ShoShop y-pipe
> 
> -'95 White MTX
>    '96 Brake Upgrade
> 
> "Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shotimes-admin@autox.team.net wrote on 07/04/2003 05:12:05 PM:
> 
> > I don't think you should be cutting or banging on anything to get the 
> tension rod out of the LCA.
> > 
> > I always remove the LCA from the subframe and from the spindle. I 
think 
> it may be possible to 
> > leave the LCA connected to the spindle and then just move the spindle 
a 
> little backwards and then 
> > swing the LCA backwards too. 
> > 
> > Michael
> > 94MTX,green,BOS+
> > 
> >  --- On Fri 07/04, James White < greensho@crown.net > wrote:
> > From: James White [mailto: greensho@crown.net]
> > To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Date: Fri, 4 Jul 2003 15:48:18 -0500
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Lower Control Arm Help
> > 
> > Need help with the lower control arms.<br><br>Can't seem to pull the 
> tension rod out of lower 
> > control arm.  Do I try and<br>remove the front of the tension rod and 
> then beat it out?  Do I 
> > spent an<br>hour or so with the cut-off wheel on the old lower 
> control?<br><br>Tried a gear puller
> > and there wasn't anything stable to grab except the<br>washer on the 
> tension rod, but that didn't 
> > seem to do anything before the<br>puller got cocked.<br><br>Well, I am 

> off to Sears, hopefully 
> > they're open, for a few more sockets,<br>like a 24mm 
> deepwell.<br><br>regards, Jim White - 
> > 
> 
greensho@crown.net<br>_______________________________________________<br>Sho
> times 
> mailing 
> > 
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> imes<br>
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