[Shotimes] Re: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #2168 - 13 msgs
troy gulbrandson
mohlman21@hotmail.com
Sun, 01 Jun 2003 21:10:39 -0500
my sho wont start? i turn the key and it doesnt sound like the fuel pump is
kicking in but it turns over and tryes to start. is there a fuse or
something that i might have blown?? any help will be greaty liked.
>From: shotimes-request@autox.team.net
>Reply-To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: Shotimes digest, Vol 1 #2168 - 13 msgs
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 14:56:02 -0600
>
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>Today's Topics:
>
> 1. RE: Another blasted stereo question (Bill Murray)
> 2. RE: subwoofer replacement (Bill Murray)
> 3. Re: auto lamps (Al Fitz)
> 4. Re: California Convention (2004) Itinerary Addendum 1 (George
>Fourchy)
> 5. auto lamps (Peter Maggiacomo)
> 6. RE: auto lamps (James F. Ryan III)
> 7. Slightly OT-Wheel Bearings (sho2go)
> 8. RE: Another blasted stereo question (Bill Murray)
> 9. RE: auto lamps (James F. Ryan III)
> 10. RE: auto lamps (Jim and Debbie Leyden)
> 11. Re: Another blasted stereo question (van Oss)
> 12. Some more A/C problems (Harmon)
> 13. RE: auto lamps (Ron Childs)
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 1
>From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
>To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:55:45 -0400
>
>JL Audio makes some relatively inexpensive coaxial or component
>speakers, and also MB Quart, but they can be a little "bright". Both of
>these companies also make more expensive ones too if you really want
>some great sound quality. You can usually find a set of them for a good
>price on eBay, but you won't get the Manufacturers warranty since the
>eBay person isn't a licensed dealer. A/D/S also makes some good
>speakers, but they can be a little pricey. None of these will give you
>the "ghetto boom" since they are just for ~80 hz and above. Also make
>sure that you have the speakers powered by the Rockford A4 only and not
>also off of the head unit. By-amping like this is not recommended and
>will most likely damage your speakers.
>
>Bill Murray
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Carl Prochilo
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 11:06 AM
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
>
>This question concerns my son's 95 MTX. The original owner replaced the
>factory stereo with some fairly nice aftermarket equipment that came
>with
>the car. Here's the list.
>
>o Pioneer DEH- P8000R head unit (45W/channel)
>o MTX electronic crossover
>o Rockford Fosgate Punch 200 A4 amp
>o Rockford Fosgate Punch 225 amp for subs
>o Eagle Power Cap 20V
>o Wiring in place for trunk mounted CD changer.
>
>I can say it looks damn impressive. Sound OTOH is an issue I'm trying
>to
>debug. From what I can tell, the original factory speakers are still
>with
>the car. My main fear is that the equipment is way overmatching the
>speakers. Can someone comment on this? If so, what recommendations
>would
>you make to replace the factory speakers to match up with the power
>output.
>
>In case you are wondering, there is no intent here to blast out the
>windows
>of the adjacent car. Just looking for crisp, clear sound, not that
>urban
>thunder boom crap.
>
>TIA,
>Carl P.
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
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>--__--__--
>
>Message: 2
>From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
>To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] subwoofer replacement
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 14:13:38 -0400
>
>There are 2 reasons why it sounds better with better amp running it.
>The JBL amp is 6ohms, and if you run the sub at 4 ohms, the JBL amp is
>most likely sending it a somewhat distorted signal. The other reason is
>probably that the JBL box is either too big or too small for the JL sub.
>If I was looking to keep the same mounting style, I would either find an
>8" sub that worked with the volume of the JBL sub box, or get something
>like the JL IB8, with is a free air sub, and just mount it to the top
>half of the JBL box, and leave the bottom half off. When I bought my
>first SHO, it had an MTX 8" sub in the JBL sub box, running off a 120w
>Sony amp. It wasn't a window shacker, but it was ok, at low to moderate
>listening levels.
>
>Bill Murray
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin & Cheryl Airth
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:40 PM
>To: Jim and Debbie Leyden; shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] subwoofer replacement
>
>Jim:
> He is wrong. The 6W0 is different from the rest of the JL line. It is
>single voice coil only and 4 or 8 ohms depending on how you wire it up.
>One
>part number only. Here is the factory page for this unit. I don't know
>what
>the retail price is.
>http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/6w0.html
>
> One of mine runs just fine using the stock JBL amp but I think it
>sounds
>better with higher quality electronics pushing it. It really is too
>small to
>be a proper subwoofer but I like how the box fits the car.
>.
>.
>
>
>
>
> > My son in law owns a stereo shop in Ohio. He says (can't back it
>myself
> > because I haven't heard one personally) that the JL Audio speakers
>required
> > more to drive them than the JBL amp will put out. Also, 6WO is only
>part
>of
> > the number. you have to specify the Ohms since JL makes them in
>4,6,8,and
> > 12 Ohms (I think it was a 6WO-6) or something like that)
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
>
> >
> > Joe:
> > I found a perfect drop in high quality replacement. JL Audio makes
>6.5"
> > subwoofer. 6W0. They are a little hard to find. I got two on E-bay for
> > $70/pair. Used one in a stock application and sounded great. I used
>the
> > other speaker in my aftermarket setup. I added the factory box and did
>not
> > like the factory driver. Comparing the stock JBL to the JL unit shows
>the
> > quality difference!
> > .
> > .
> >
> >
> >
> > > Sounds like a great choice. I tried 4-ohm and 8-ohm replacements
>when
>my
> > > original sub went bye-bye. Not because I expected them to work,
>just to
> > see
> > > what would happen.
> > >
> > > Result (as most of you expect): sounded horrible.
> > >
> > > I ended up getting an OEM replacement (thanks Al).
> > >
> > > Steve "Still have to pop zits once in a while" Tatro
> > > Red/Black '93 with 167k miles
> > > Cincinnati, Ohio
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > > PIONEER C16EU20-52D 6-1/2" POLY WOOFER
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > it has the correct resistance (6 Ohms)
> > > > and can be bought from:
> > > >
> > >
> >
>http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&SO=2&&DID=7&CATID=4
>9&Ob
> > > > jectGroup_ID=488
> > > >
> > > > pardon me.... I have to go pop my zits
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I posted earlier today about an inoperative subwoofer.
> > > >
> > > > The winners are Jim Leyden and Dave Kegel for suggesting it might
>be
>the
> > > > speaker itself. Volt meter says there is current coming to it
>(fraction
> > > of
> > > > a volt, does that seem right?) and resistance across the terminals
>of
> > the
> > > > speaker is infinite.
> > > >
> > > > So I'm off to the store. Someone recently recommended a
>particular
> > brand
> > > > and model number as a good replacement for the stock subwoofer ---
>could
> > > > someone repost that info? Please? Thanks much.
> > > >
> > > > Also, where's a good source for the rubber grommets used where the
> > > mounting
> > > > studs come up through holes in the parcel shelf?
> > > >
> > > > Joseph van Oss
> > > >
> > > > p.s. No valve springs involved in this job, sorry.
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
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>--__--__--
>
>Message: 3
>From: "Al Fitz" <alfitz@alfitz.com>
>To: "_SHOTIMES" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:13:37 -0500
>
>I'm sure you must realize that the DRL module does more than turn your
>headlights on during the day. It actually turns your headlights on at about
>25% intensity and does not turn your tail lights on.
>
>Al Fitz SHO Specials
>http://www.alfitz.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
>To: "'-Newmy-'" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:05 PM
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>
>
> > On the Gen 1, it's the sensor on the passenger side.
> >
> > Ron Porter
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of -Newmy-
> > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:12 PM
> > To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >
> >
> > Hi everybody, quick question....
> > In order to get my autolamps to come on in bright daylight on my '90,
> > shouldnt I just be able to cover up that button sensor on the dash in
>front
> > of the driver? Im trying this, but to no avail...
> > Is there another switch that has to be activated also?
> > thanks
> > Curt
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 4
>From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
>To: "shotimes@autox.team.net" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 11:29:06 -0700
>Reply-To: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
>Subject: [Shotimes] Re: California Convention (2004) Itinerary Addendum 1
>
>On Sun, 01 Jun 2003 09:29:29 -0700, Alan Fanning wrote:
>
> > Down the
> >street from old town is the Towe museum, the future retirement home for
>the
> >Lowrider (George - how could you forget to mention it?). This used to be
>a
> >Ford exclusive museum, but IIRC the owner got himself in financial
>quicksand
> >and had to sell off. Now there are other makes as well. In Woodland there
>is
> >(as of a few years back) an old truck museum that is quite interesting.
>Not
> >concourse type restorations, but a remarkable variety of really old
>working
> >trucks. Just don't go on a 100 degree day, as it isn't air conditioned.
> >
> >For a high-end auto museum, there's the Blackhawk Museum, which I've
> >regrettably never been to but I've heard good things about it. It's south
>of
> >Vacaville - in Walnut Creek?
>
>Duh!!! How could I forget the Towe Museum.....Lowrider will be a static
>display at
>the hotel during the convention, with the other two cars actually being
>driven, and
>when it is over, I'll be taking it over there to them for long-term loan.
>Oldtown
>Sacramento is really nice....the last time I was there it was like a town
>from the
>1800s...wooden sidewalks and everything.
>
>Blackhawk is in Danville, about halfway between Concord and Castro Valley,
>on I-680.
> For those not familiar with the Bay Area, it's on the next freeway to the
>east from
>880, which connects Oakland and San Jose, behind the first small range of
>mountains
>next to the east shore of the bay. I've been there twice....the BaySHO
>group goes
>there often, whenever a new influx of members wants to see the cars.
>
>Thanks for the suggestions. I'll catalogue them and see how many are
>easily doable.
>
>George
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 5
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 11:37:27 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Peter Maggiacomo <gtsrider@yahoo.com>
>To: shotimes@autox.team.net
>Subject: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>
>"A beanbag ashtray is the special tool that SVO
>recommends..."
>Also adds thrill and excitement to an accident!
>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Calendar - Free online calendar with sync to Outlook(TM).
>http://calendar.yahoo.com
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 6
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 14:44:01 -0400
>From: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>To: "'Ron Childs'" <rbchilds@pacbell.net>, "'-Newmy-'"
> <thenewmster@shaw.ca>, shotimes@autox.team.net
>
> > On a '90, according to Helm, the sensor is on the RH side. The one on
>the
> > left would be the sunload sensor for the HVAC.
>
>
>Which is the RH side and which is the LH side? :^)
>
>Ron Porter was right. The light sensor is on the passenger side. The
>sunload sensor is the 'button' on the driver side.
>
>
>
>Jim Ryan
>(Living and working in Kentucky for the next 2 months)
>Wayne, NJ
>'91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
>spoiler
>
>
>255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO Shop
>HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
>pulleys,
>SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
>engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS '96
>SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni adj
>struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
>STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
>grille
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 7
>From: "sho2go" <srfdude@cox.net>
>To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 12:17:58 -0700
>Subject: [Shotimes] Slightly OT-Wheel Bearings
>
>(For a Dodge Caravan) rear drums, the OEM bearings are a little sorry
>looking
>so I bought some new ones, which come with races. The old races are
>pressed
>in the drums; today is Sunday of course. Will I need to have them pressed
>out/in, or can I get a brass drift and punch the old ones out, freeze the
>new
>ones, and slip them in? I'm tempted to put the new bearings in the old
>races,
>but I hate to do anything half-a**ed. Anyone with any experience with this
>type of bearing setup?
>Mike
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 8
>From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
>To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:35:09 -0400
>
>Yes, if you have the JBL system, I'm pretty sure the speakers are 6 ohm
>and the Rockford is putting out 4 ohm. My comment about the "ghetto
>boom" is that you said you didn't want anything obnoxiously loud, but
>cabin speakers aren't going to really provide that as much as the subs
>that you already have would. I posted a few weeks ago about my theory
>on replacing different parts of the JBL system, and what to replace at
>the same times as others. One of them is replacing amps and speakers at
>the same time. I can send you privately the post if I still have it if
>you're interested.
>
>Bill Murray
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Carl Prochilo [mailto:carl@prochilo.myserver.org]
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 3:27 PM
>To: Bill Murray; SHOTimes
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
>
>Can you comment a little more in this? What impedance are the factory
>speakers (6 ohms?) and what does the Rockford expect (4 ohms)? I'm
>trying
>to figure out why the speakers sound muffled (major problem). I'm still
>digging through the wiring to figure out how this is all connected up.
>I
>
>About the frequency response, that's not really a problem at all. The
>low
>frequency stuff will be handled by sub(s) powered by the 225.
>
>Carl P.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>
>To: "SHOTimes" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 1:55 PM
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
>
>
> > JL Audio makes some relatively inexpensive coaxial or component
> > speakers, and also MB Quart, but they can be a little "bright". Both
>of
> > these companies also make more expensive ones too if you really want
> > some great sound quality. You can usually find a set of them for a
>good
> > price on eBay, but you won't get the Manufacturers warranty since the
> > eBay person isn't a licensed dealer. A/D/S also makes some good
> > speakers, but they can be a little pricey. None of these will give
>you
> > the "ghetto boom" since they are just for ~80 hz and above. Also make
> > sure that you have the speakers powered by the Rockford A4 only and
>not
> > also off of the head unit. By-amping like this is not recommended and
> > will most likely damage your speakers.
> >
> > Bill Murray
> >
>
>
>---
>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
>Version: 6.0.486 / Virus Database: 284 - Release Date: 5/29/2003
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 9
>Date: Sun, 01 Jun 2003 15:45:05 -0400
>From: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>To: "'Al Fitz'" <alfitz@alfitz.com>, "'_SHOTIMES'"
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>
> > I'm sure you must realize that the DRL module does more than turn your
> > headlights on during the day. It actually turns your headlights on at
> > about 25% intensity and does not turn your tail lights on.
>
>
>I could swear I read somewhere that it's actually a 50% duty cycle. It's
>not in the EVTM or the Wiring Diagrams, maybe I read it in the Helm's.
>
>Anyway, many years ago I considered installing the DRL in my '91, but I
>never did. I've always wondered what if any effect it has on headlamp
>life.
>
>FWIW, I had one headlamp go out in 12 years of ownership; I replaced the
>other one at the same time. I had 1 front marker lamp go out and I've
>never
>had to replace a turn signal bulb (f&r) or a brake light bulb. I've never
>had to replace any of the interior lamps either. Luck O' the Irish I
>guess.
>
>
>Jim Ryan
>(Living and working in Kentucky for the next 2 months)
>Wayne, NJ
>'91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
>spoiler
>
>255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO Shop
>HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
>pulleys,
>SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
>engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS '96
>SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni adj
>struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
>STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
>grille
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 10
>From: "Jim and Debbie Leyden" <jndleyden@mindspring.com>
>To: "Shotimes@Autox.Team.Net" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 16:28:33 -0400
>
>The DRL module actually powers the high beams and when you shut the car off
>it briefly flashes the high beams on. it is also tied into the parking
>brake so that the lights go out when the parking brake is set.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Al Fitz
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 2:14 PM
>To: _SHOTIMES
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>
>
>I'm sure you must realize that the DRL module does more than turn your
>headlights on during the day. It actually turns your headlights on at about
>25% intensity and does not turn your tail lights on.
>
>Al Fitz SHO Specials
>http://www.alfitz.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
>To: "'-Newmy-'" <thenewmster@shaw.ca>; <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:05 PM
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>
>
> > On the Gen 1, it's the sensor on the passenger side.
> >
> > Ron Porter
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
>[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of -Newmy-
> > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 12:12 PM
> > To: shotimes@autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Shotimes] auto lamps
> >
> >
> > Hi everybody, quick question....
> > In order to get my autolamps to come on in bright daylight on my '90,
> > shouldnt I just be able to cover up that button sensor on the dash in
>front
> > of the driver? Im trying this, but to no avail...
> > Is there another switch that has to be activated also?
> > thanks
> > Curt
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>_______________________________________________
>Shotimes mailing list
>Shotimes@autox.team.net
>http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 11
>Reply-To: "van Oss" <vanOss@centurytel.net>
>From: "van Oss" <vanOss@centurytel.net>
>To: "Bill Murray" <fordsho@cloud9grafx.com>, "SHOTimes"
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Another blasted stereo question
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 15:37:39 -0500
>
>What does it mean to say that an amplifier is "putting out" 4 ohms? How
>does an amp "put out" resistence?
>
>Joseph van Oss
>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>Yes, if you have the JBL system, I'm pretty sure the speakers are 6 ohm and
>the Rockford is putting out 4 ohm...
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 12
>From: "Harmon" <sharmon@knology.net>
>To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 16:35:47 -0400
>Subject: [Shotimes] Some more A/C problems
>
>Actually, it's the same problem I've had for the last couple years.
>
>Sorry for it being so long but just want to give you a history of it and
>believe me this is actually quite short for the trouble I've had with this.
>
>The car has actually done this since I've owned it. The number 17 fuse
>position keeps blowing fuses. The number 17 fuse pos. is the A/C
>clutch/compressor. Last year it started this and if you hit it with a
>broomstick it would engage, classic symtom of a bad gap on the A/C clutch.
>It
>would work for a little while then blow the fuse again. I checked the gap
>and
>it was too large so I removed a shim and somehow ended up with the same
>gap.
>Only now it would'nt even come on for a second it would just immediately
>blow
>the fuse. Well I was pissed and struggled thru last summer (Hot in Bama 8+
>months a year). Well I took it all apart yesterday and used a shim from
>the
>old 89 a/c compressor I had. It is now right on the .036" edge. It's
>better
>now as it will run a little while before blowing. Anyone have any ideas.
>It
>makes me think it's got a short somewhere but why would fooling with the
>gap
>have any affect as it has every time I've bothered it.
>
>If it's a short I'm in trouble as my weak point on autos is electrical
>stuff.
>If's if is electrical I don't think is related to anything but the actually
>a/c clutch/compressor as the climate control is never affected? There
>should
>be much wiring in between these two, right? Or am I totally in for a very
>hard time chasing a shit load of wires?
>
>Could the gap be to large and cause it to overload the clutch coil trying
>to
>draw in the clutch? This may be searching a bit I know but like I said I'm
>a
>dumbass when it comes to wiring..
>
>Just to eliminate the A/C clutch/compressor could i just leave the # 17
>empty
>and run a straight switch to operate the AC or will I burn something up?
>
>
>Thanks for any help,
>
>BTW its a 94
>
>Gerald
>
>--__--__--
>
>Message: 13
>Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2003 13:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Ron Childs <rbchilds@pacbell.net>
>Subject: RE: [Shotimes] auto lamps
>To: "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net>, shotimes@autox.team.net
>
>I think it is a different section in Helm that describes front, back,
>left, right, up and down. :-) The lighting section just says "RH."
>
> .
>-Ron
> .
>
>--- "James F. Ryan III" <av8r567@optonline.net> wrote:
> > > On a '90, according to Helm, the sensor is on the RH side. The one on
> > the
> > > left would be the sunload sensor for the HVAC.
> >
> >
> > Which is the RH side and which is the LH side? :^)
> >
> > Ron Porter was right. The light sensor is on the passenger side. The
> > sunload sensor is the 'button' on the driver side.
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Ryan
> > (Living and working in Kentucky for the next 2 months)
> > Wayne, NJ
> > '91 Plus - all white/mocha with fiberglass hood, rod shifter, & rear
> > spoiler
> >
> >
> > 255 Lph fuel pump, SHO Shop can & horn, 80mm MAF, S&B cone filter, SHO
> > Shop
> > HiFlow Y-pipe & cat-back exhaust, SHO Shop LPM, SHO Shop underdrive
> > pulleys,
> > SHO Shop HiRevs Jr clutch & steel billet LiteWeight flywheel, reinforced
> > engine & trans mounts, SHO Shop TQ limiters, SHO NUT aluminum SFBs, FPS
> > '96
> > SHO front brakes, Carbotech F brake pads, Nook's full-body SFCs, Koni
> > adj
> > struts, SHO Shop linear springs, 24mm FSB, 26mm RSB, SHO Shop steel f&r
> > STBs, Bridgestone Potenza RE-730 225/55-16, CATZ MSP fog lights, police
> > grille
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>
>
>--__--__--
>
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>
>
>End of Shotimes Digest
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