[Shotimes] subwoofer replacement
Bill Murray
fordsho@cloud9grafx.com
Wed, 4 Jun 2003 20:17:41 -0400
If the JBL box is indeed .33 ft3, the 6w0 is too small. According to
JLs site, the 6w0 works best in a sealed enclosure between .15-.22 ft3.
I would side more towards the smaller side to get the tightest and most
accurate sound possible. The 8w0 on the other hand requires .3-.6 ft3,
so the JBL box would be about perfect for the 8w0. So I'd still go with
an 8", plus an 8" is much more available from other manufactures, then a
6" is. And the 8" will be louder, if thats what you're looking for by
upgrading.
Bill Murray.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin & Cheryl Airth [mailto:clubairth@peoplepc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2003 3:43 PM
To: Bill Murray; SHOTimes
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] subwoofer replacement
Bill:
I think your right on the signal level. Also that small of a driver
needs
to be pushed harder to get as low as possible. The box volume is
acutally
almost perfect for the JL Audio speaker. We have somewhere around .33
ft3 in
the box and that's within the recomened range for the subwoofer. The 8"
models usually are looking for more volume. I thought about a free air
setup
but nobody I talked to had any good comments. I also could not find
anybody
with decent sound running one.
.
.
> There are 2 reasons why it sounds better with better amp running it.
> The JBL amp is 6ohms, and if you run the sub at 4 ohms, the JBL amp is
> most likely sending it a somewhat distorted signal. The other reason
is
> probably that the JBL box is either too big or too small for the JL
sub.
> If I was looking to keep the same mounting style, I would either find
an
> 8" sub that worked with the volume of the JBL sub box, or get
something
> like the JL IB8, with is a free air sub, and just mount it to the top
> half of the JBL box, and leave the bottom half off. When I bought my
> first SHO, it had an MTX 8" sub in the JBL sub box, running off a 120w
> Sony amp. It wasn't a window shacker, but it was ok, at low to
moderate
> listening levels.
>
> Bill Murray
>
>
> Jim:
> He is wrong. The 6W0 is different from the rest of the JL line. It is
> single voice coil only and 4 or 8 ohms depending on how you wire it
up.
> One
> part number only. Here is the factory page for this unit. I don't
know
> what
> the retail price is.
> http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/6w0.html
>
> One of mine runs just fine using the stock JBL amp but I think it
> sounds
> better with higher quality electronics pushing it. It really is too
> small to
> be a proper subwoofer but I like how the box fits the car.
> .
> .
>
>
>
>
> > My son in law owns a stereo shop in Ohio. He says (can't back it
> myself
> > because I haven't heard one personally) that the JL Audio speakers
> required
> > more to drive them than the JBL amp will put out. Also, 6WO is only
> part
> of
> > the number. you have to specify the Ohms since JL makes them in
> 4,6,8,and
> > 12 Ohms (I think it was a 6WO-6) or something like that)
> >
> > Jim
> >
> >
>
> >
> > Joe:
> > I found a perfect drop in high quality replacement. JL Audio makes
> 6.5"
> > subwoofer. 6W0. They are a little hard to find. I got two on E-bay
for
> > $70/pair. Used one in a stock application and sounded great. I used
> the
> > other speaker in my aftermarket setup. I added the factory box and
did
> not
> > like the factory driver. Comparing the stock JBL to the JL unit
shows
> the
> > quality difference!
> > .
> > .
> >
> >
> >
> > > Sounds like a great choice. I tried 4-ohm and 8-ohm replacements
> when
> my
> > > original sub went bye-bye. Not because I expected them to work,
> just to
> > see
> > > what would happen.
> > >
> > > Result (as most of you expect): sounded horrible.
> > >
> > > I ended up getting an OEM replacement (thanks Al).
> > >
> > > Steve "Still have to pop zits once in a while" Tatro
> > > Red/Black '93 with 167k miles
> > > Cincinnati, Ohio
> > >
> >
> > >
> > > > PIONEER C16EU20-52D 6-1/2" POLY WOOFER
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > it has the correct resistance (6 Ohms)
> > > > and can be bought from:
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&SO=2&&DID=7&CATID=4
> 9&Ob
> > > > jectGroup_ID=488
> > > >
> > > > pardon me.... I have to go pop my zits
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I posted earlier today about an inoperative subwoofer.
> > > >
> > > > The winners are Jim Leyden and Dave Kegel for suggesting it
might
> be
> the
> > > > speaker itself. Volt meter says there is current coming to it
> (fraction
> > > of
> > > > a volt, does that seem right?) and resistance across the
terminals
> of
> > the
> > > > speaker is infinite.
> > > >
> > > > So I'm off to the store. Someone recently recommended a
> particular
> > brand
> > > > and model number as a good replacement for the stock subwoofer
---
> could
> > > > someone repost that info? Please? Thanks much.
> > > >
> > > > Also, where's a good source for the rubber grommets used where
the
> > > mounting
> > > > studs come up through holes in the parcel shelf?
> > > >
> > > > Joseph van Oss
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