[Shotimes] Control arm removal

ianf@eden.rutgers.edu ianf@eden.rutgers.edu
Thu, 6 Mar 2003 19:59:32 -0500 (EST)


melt the rubber? What were you doing?

Ian

> Yeah, we beat the snot out of it.  We used (in no particular order), 
an air
> hammer, hammer, hammered on a smaller socket, pry bar, and that's all 
I can
> think of.  It didn't show any signs of movement.
> 
> The front ones were my fault.  I didn't have a torch (rather, didn't 
know
> how to use it) to melt the rubber on the control arms.
> 
> Mike Kopstain
> Midwest SHO Specialists
> 827 North Chestnut Avenue
> Arlington Heights, IL 60004
> www.MidwestSHO.com
> Sales@midwestsho.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kirk Doucette" <Kirk.doucette@verizon.net>
> To: "Paul L Fisher" <sho@paul-fisher.com>; "SHOtimes (Team.net)"
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>; "TechSHO (Topica)" <TechSHO@topica.com>
> Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 10:17 AM
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Control arm removal
> 
> 
> > They rust in, Mike should have know this. You need an air hammer to 
punch
> it
> > out. Its very common
> >
> > Kirk J Doucette
> > NESHOC President
> > Stormtrooper-97 White
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
> [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]On
> > Behalf Of Paul L Fisher
> > Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 11:09 AM
> > To: SHOtimes (Team.net); TechSHO (Topica)
> > Subject: [Shotimes] Control arm removal
> >
> > Yesterday, I was trying to swap out both the front and rear control 
arms.
> On
> > the fronts, they came of the subframe OK and off the knuckle OK, the
> problem
> > is the bushing where they meet the tension strut. Couldn't get them 
to
> > release on either sides. Any suggestions? I put the car back 
together with
> > the old ones.
> >
> > On the rear, 2 problems reared their ugly heads. 1st, on the front 
one on
> > the drivers side, the control arm came off the rear knuckle but 
there was
> > some sort of steel sleeve firmly stuck on the bolt. No matter what, 
we
> could
> > not remove it.
> >
> > On the passenger side, the rear one was rather bent. It looked like 
I had
> > hit a curb sometime. It must of been the PO. Anyhow, I couldn't get 
the
> bolt
> > on the H box to release. The nut came off fine but the bolt refused 
to
> turn
> > or be pulled out.
> >
> > Any clues?
> >
> > Paul L Fisher
> > '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 171K Build date 11/18/1992
> > - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back,
> Holley
> > 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-
Plus
> > Stainless Steel Y-pipe, '96 brake upgrade, Delrin sub-frame 
bushings,
> Amsoil
> > Series 2000 0W-30 oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
> > '00 Ford Explorer XLT 5.0L V8 AWD Oxford White Clearcoat 41K Build 
date
> > 11/19/1999
> > - Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 oil, K&N Fuel Injection Performance Kit
> >
> > SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> > Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> > Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
> >
> > Get $5 free from Paypal! 
https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
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