[Shotimes] Moog Caster/Camber Kit # K8822 ?'s

Kevin - Cheryl Airth CLUBAIRTH@peoplepc.com
Fri, 2 May 2003 10:07:58 -0500


Bruce:
 You mean removing the top plate? After drilling the spot welds it is
recommended to rivet the plate into position to hold the alignment. One
other issue, regardless of the method of adjustment. There is a limit on how
far the top of the strut is allowed to move. This is due to the size of the
hole in the top of the strut tower. Grinding the inside of the strut tower
mounting hole will give you more adjustment room. But you don't know how
much to grind or even if you need to grind until the car is on the alignment
rack. I grind some additional clearance towards the back and towards the
outside of the car. This will allow more caster and camber adjustment. Do
you have any numbers for the suspension settings now, before more changes
are made?

Even with correct alignment hard driving will wear the inside corner more
rapidly. With one hard day at the Autocross I swear I can SEE the amount of
rubber worn off the front tires! I am considering swapping the tires side to
side to help distribute the corner wear to the "other" side, by dismounting
the tires from the rims. Might get a few more miles from a set of tires.
Plus I seem to develop a drone or roar at about 75% wear and above, as the
tires wear with one corner more rounded than the other.
.
.
PS:
 So your the one selling those GM strut tower bars on E-bay!!
.
.

 I know camber becomes an issue
> when lowering a car, and I know it is already an issue on my car as the
towers
> have been cut and (get this) riveted into place. I am already seeing a
little
> inner edge wear, but not really bad and it is about time for me to rotate
the
> tires anyway.
> Bruce
> 94 Opal Frost MTX