[Shotimes] Moog Caster/Camber Kit # K8822 ?'s

[Ron Porter]

You just simply mark the position of the plate with tape or a marker pen.
Already have BTDT a few time, and will do it again when I do the strut
bearing replacement before the Convention.

To me, this is a LOT easier than riveting or welding them back. The original
weld job was more for ease of production assembly anyway, I believe.

Besides, with the Koni/Eibach, my plate position is as far out as it will
go. I'll mark it before unbolting it, but I really don't need to.

Ron Porter 

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Kevin - Cheryl Airth
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2003 1:38 PM
To: Ron Porter; 'Dave Kegel'; 'SHOtimes'
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Moog Caster/Camber Kit # K8822 ?'s


Ron:
 I think you are right but I do see one reason for it. After getting the
front end set up if you remove the struts or loosen the mounting bolts then
the plate is free to slide around. Perhaps a groaning strut bearing needs
grease or something. So I think it's a back up.
.
.


> I guess if you don't trust the three bolts!!  Dunno, riveting sounds like
> overkill....kinda like wearing a belt AND suspenders!
>
> Ron Porter
>
>
> I didn't think anyone ever really did this (the riveting part).
>
> Learn something new everyday.
>
> Dave
> > Bruce:
> >  You mean removing the top plate? After drilling the spot welds it is
> > recommended to rivet the plate into position to hold the alignment.
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