[Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(

[Ron Porter]

Spend $50 and buy the Motive Products power bleeder:

http://www.motiveproducts.com/ordernow_bleeders.htm

Not much more than the cost of those nice-idea-but-prone-to-trouble Speed
Bleeders, and it works great.

It's also better for your m/c than having someone sit there and pump the
pedal.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Noah South III
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 3:10 PM
To: SHOTimes-Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(


Well I'm far from He-Man and I've had little trouble screwing the rear
calipers back into place on my SHOs with the bleeder valve closed.  Anyway,
it's kinda hard to bleed the brakes by yourself, which is a very good reason
not to bleed your brakes at the time of replacing the pads.

Oh and contrary to what some people think you do NOT have to push the rear
pistons in while turning them, you just turn them.  I know this for a fact
since I've done the rear brakes on a Ford somewhere in the range of 30
times.  Never had to push, only had to turn.  Air tools also helps this go
even faster.  With my impact gun I can compress a front caliper in about 10
seconds using a REALLY old caliper compression tool from the 70's.  No the
impact doesn't damage the calipers, provided I'm not stupid and don't wrench
it down as hard as I can.  Again, you should always bleed the brakes after
doing work on them, it's just good habit.  You'll understand why when you
remove a bunch of orange cloudy fluid from the caliper too.

-Noah South III

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
To: "'Noah South III'" <RaggTopp@comcast.net>; "'SHOTimes-Mailing List'"
<shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 12:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(


Let's get some terminology straight. The Bleed" the brakes is to do a few
pumps at each corner to get any air out of the caliper. To "flush" the
brakes is to do an extended bleeding to totally replace all of the brake
fluid in the entire system.

IMHO, you should do a Flush every time you put in new pads, or once a year,
whichever comes first.

At a minimum, you should bleed each caliper when you install pads.

To bleed a single caliper is a less-than-5-minute-job.

Opening the bleeder valve to screw in the rear caliper piston makes the job
SO easy that there is not reason not to do it. As I mentioned, I use a pair
of needlenose pliers to screw the pistons back in.

By the time you mess around with a C-clamp on the rears and try to turn the
piston in with the bleeder valve closed, I can open the valve, turn the
piston, bleed the caliper, and be DONE with that corner while you're still
fartin' around with the C-clamp.

Now, the C-clamp and a small block of wood work great for squeezing in the
front piston......after you open that bleeder valve, also.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Noah South III
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 4:20 AM
To: SHOTimes-Mailing List
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(


Don't feel bad Shylo, my friend and I broke a C clamp doing the same thing
on my first SHO.  FWIW, if you don't open any bleeder valve you don't have
to bleed the system.  On the same note, you should always bleed your
calipers when doing routine pad replacement.  Basically, if you're in a
hurry, don't open the bleeder valves, it will save you some time.

-Noah South III


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:59 AM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(


> On Sat, 1 Nov 2003 23:22:07 -0800 (PST), Shylo McKinsey wrote:
>
> >1230- FINALLY get the two bolts loose and get the
> >rotor and caliper off. NIETHER rear caliper pistons
> >will BUDGE AN INCH. Put both in a vice and niether
> >moved AT ALL.
>
> You don't say that you tried to turn the pistons......
>
> If you don't know it, you must be the last one not to...  You have to
screw in the
> rear caliper pistons to get them to retract.  They do not press straight
in.  There
> is a special tool that engages the notches in the piston, and you turn the
tool with
> a ratchet and extension.  It helps to relieve the fluid pressure in the
caliper at
> the same time....open the bleed screw and let the fluid flow out....then
rebleed the
> system after all the new pads are installed.  Fronts don't need to be
turned....it
> has to do with the emergency brake.
>
> Sorry for all the other problems.  Hopefully your brakes will last a
while, now.
>
> George
> _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net
> http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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