[Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(

[Paul Nimz]

I feel it is very easy to bleed the brakes by yourself.  All you need is 3'
of 1/4" ID clear hose and a can.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Noah South III" <RaggTopp@comcast.net>
To: "SHOTimes-Mailing List" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(


> Well I'm far from He-Man and I've had little trouble screwing the rear
> calipers back into place on my SHOs with the bleeder valve closed.
Anyway,
> it's kinda hard to bleed the brakes by yourself, which is a very good
reason
> not to bleed your brakes at the time of replacing the pads.
>
> Oh and contrary to what some people think you do NOT have to push the rear
> pistons in while turning them, you just turn them.  I know this for a fact
> since I've done the rear brakes on a Ford somewhere in the range of 30
> times.  Never had to push, only had to turn.  Air tools also helps this go
> even faster.  With my impact gun I can compress a front caliper in about
10
> seconds using a REALLY old caliper compression tool from the 70's.  No the
> impact doesn't damage the calipers, provided I'm not stupid and don't
wrench
> it down as hard as I can.  Again, you should always bleed the brakes after
> doing work on them, it's just good habit.  You'll understand why when you
> remove a bunch of orange cloudy fluid from the caliper too.
>
> -Noah South III
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
> To: "'Noah South III'" <RaggTopp@comcast.net>; "'SHOTimes-Mailing List'"
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 12:21 PM
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> Let's get some terminology straight. The Bleed" the brakes is to do a few
> pumps at each corner to get any air out of the caliper. To "flush" the
> brakes is to do an extended bleeding to totally replace all of the brake
> fluid in the entire system.
>
> IMHO, you should do a Flush every time you put in new pads, or once a
year,
> whichever comes first.
>
> At a minimum, you should bleed each caliper when you install pads.
>
> To bleed a single caliper is a less-than-5-minute-job.
>
> Opening the bleeder valve to screw in the rear caliper piston makes the
job
> SO easy that there is not reason not to do it. As I mentioned, I use a
pair
> of needlenose pliers to screw the pistons back in.
>
> By the time you mess around with a C-clamp on the rears and try to turn
the
> piston in with the bleeder valve closed, I can open the valve, turn the
> piston, bleed the caliper, and be DONE with that corner while you're still
> fartin' around with the C-clamp.
>
> Now, the C-clamp and a small block of wood work great for squeezing in the
> front piston......after you open that bleeder valve, also.
>
> Ron Porter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Noah South III
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 4:20 AM
> To: SHOTimes-Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> Don't feel bad Shylo, my friend and I broke a C clamp doing the same thing
> on my first SHO.  FWIW, if you don't open any bleeder valve you don't have
> to bleed the system.  On the same note, you should always bleed your
> calipers when doing routine pad replacement.  Basically, if you're in a
> hurry, don't open the bleeder valves, it will save you some time.
>
> -Noah South III
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> > On Sat, 1 Nov 2003 23:22:07 -0800 (PST), Shylo McKinsey wrote:
> >
> > >1230- FINALLY get the two bolts loose and get the
> > >rotor and caliper off. NIETHER rear caliper pistons
> > >will BUDGE AN INCH. Put both in a vice and niether
> > >moved AT ALL.
> >
> > You don't say that you tried to turn the pistons......
> >
> > If you don't know it, you must be the last one not to...  You have to
> screw in the
> > rear caliper pistons to get them to retract.  They do not press straight
> in.  There
> > is a special tool that engages the notches in the piston, and you turn
the
> tool with
> > a ratchet and extension.  It helps to relieve the fluid pressure in the
> caliper at
> > the same time....open the bleed screw and let the fluid flow out....then
> rebleed the
> > system after all the new pads are installed.  Fronts don't need to be
> turned....it
> > has to do with the emergency brake.
> >
> > Sorry for all the other problems.  Hopefully your brakes will last a
> while, now.
> >
> > George
> > _______________________________________________
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> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
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