[Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com
Mon, 3 Nov 2003 09:00:28 -0500
I've also found that putting a jack under the hub and jacking
it up helps a lot. Opens the brake valve.
Mike Wojton
Toledo, Ohio
-'95 Green MTX 3/01-1/03 R.I.P.
ShoShop y-pipe
-'95 White MTX
'96 Brake Upgrade
Do not taunt Happy Fun Ball.
shotimes-admin@autox.team.net wrote on 11/02/2003 03:10:26 PM:
> Well I'm far from He-Man and I've had little trouble screwing the rear
> calipers back into place on my SHOs with the bleeder valve closed.
Anyway,
> it's kinda hard to bleed the brakes by yourself, which is a very good
reason
> not to bleed your brakes at the time of replacing the pads.
>
> Oh and contrary to what some people think you do NOT have to push the
rear
> pistons in while turning them, you just turn them. I know this for a
fact
> since I've done the rear brakes on a Ford somewhere in the range of 30
> times. Never had to push, only had to turn. Air tools also helps this
go
> even faster. With my impact gun I can compress a front caliper in about
10
> seconds using a REALLY old caliper compression tool from the 70's. No
the
> impact doesn't damage the calipers, provided I'm not stupid and don't
wrench
> it down as hard as I can. Again, you should always bleed the brakes
after
> doing work on them, it's just good habit. You'll understand why when
you
> remove a bunch of orange cloudy fluid from the caliper too.
>
> -Noah South III
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ron Porter" <ronporter@prodigy.net>
> To: "'Noah South III'" <RaggTopp@comcast.net>; "'SHOTimes-Mailing List'"
> <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 12:21 PM
> Subject: RE: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> Let's get some terminology straight. The Bleed" the brakes is to do a
few
> pumps at each corner to get any air out of the caliper. To "flush" the
> brakes is to do an extended bleeding to totally replace all of the brake
> fluid in the entire system.
>
> IMHO, you should do a Flush every time you put in new pads, or once a
year,
> whichever comes first.
>
> At a minimum, you should bleed each caliper when you install pads.
>
> To bleed a single caliper is a less-than-5-minute-job.
>
> Opening the bleeder valve to screw in the rear caliper piston makes the
job
> SO easy that there is not reason not to do it. As I mentioned, I use a
pair
> of needlenose pliers to screw the pistons back in.
>
> By the time you mess around with a C-clamp on the rears and try to turn
the
> piston in with the bleeder valve closed, I can open the valve, turn the
> piston, bleed the caliper, and be DONE with that corner while you're
still
> fartin' around with the C-clamp.
>
> Now, the C-clamp and a small block of wood work great for squeezing in
the
> front piston......after you open that bleeder valve, also.
>
> Ron Porter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net
[mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Noah South III
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 4:20 AM
> To: SHOTimes-Mailing List
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> Don't feel bad Shylo, my friend and I broke a C clamp doing the same
thing
> on my first SHO. FWIW, if you don't open any bleeder valve you don't
have
> to bleed the system. On the same note, you should always bleed your
> calipers when doing routine pad replacement. Basically, if you're in a
> hurry, don't open the bleeder valves, it will save you some time.
>
> -Noah South III
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "George Fourchy" <krazgeo@jps.net>
> To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2003 2:59 AM
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] Sigh...Strikes again...:'(
>
>
> > On Sat, 1 Nov 2003 23:22:07 -0800 (PST), Shylo McKinsey wrote:
> >
> > >1230- FINALLY get the two bolts loose and get the
> > >rotor and caliper off. NIETHER rear caliper pistons
> > >will BUDGE AN INCH. Put both in a vice and niether
> > >moved AT ALL.
> >
> > You don't say that you tried to turn the pistons......
> >
> > If you don't know it, you must be the last one not to... You have to
> screw in the
> > rear caliper pistons to get them to retract. They do not press
straight
> in. There
> > is a special tool that engages the notches in the piston, and you turn
the
> tool with
> > a ratchet and extension. It helps to relieve the fluid pressure in
the
> caliper at
> > the same time....open the bleed screw and let the fluid flow
out....then
> rebleed the
> > system after all the new pads are installed. Fronts don't need to be
> turned....it
> > has to do with the emergency brake.
> >
> > Sorry for all the other problems. Hopefully your brakes will last a
> while, now.
> >
> > George
> > _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net
> > http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
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