[Shotimes] More A/C questions!

[Paul L Fisher]

You already mentioned less efficient. It is WAY less efficient. Also, there are 
official Ford kits out there to convert to R134a. Don't just go to Autozone and 
get their $19.95 kit.

If it is just your compressor that is toast, redo it with R12.
-- 

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6


Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:

> Okay, here's my plan.
> 
> Since my SHO is officially an old piece of garbage, and it's trade-in value
> (based on KBB, Edmunds, etc.) is now under $1000, I want to fix my a/c
> compressor as cheaply as possible.
> 
> So, I'm going to have the old R-12 evacuated, remove/replace the compressor
> and clutch, convert the fittings to the new R-134a style, and refill the
> system.
> 
> Can anybody give me a reason NOT to do this?  I know the system can't be as
> efficient, but I'm not about to dump $1500 into it.  Sorry if you don't
> like
> me now ;^)
> 
> Is there any possible damage this can cause?  I have friend who's taking
> hands-on car shop classes, and when they needed to replace the compressor
> on
> an old S-10, this is exactly what they did.  I'm not saying it's the best
> way, but will it work and not cause any further damage?
> 
> Thanks as always,
> 
> Steve Tatro
> Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> Cincinnati, Ohio
> 
> P.S.  PFish, does your air work?  If so, it may be cost-effective for me to
> just buy your car.  I'd probably forget which one is which though ;^)
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