[Shotimes] More A/C questions!

[Paul L Fisher]

Well, from what I understand, you should replace some other parts as well like 
the drier and one or two other parts. That is the thing, most 'conversion kits' 
only do it half-assed and end up costing you in the long run.

I believe there is something about the compressor oil between the R134a and the 
R12 being different and it gets in to something that should be replaced.

As I said, Ford used to have a TSB that listed all the proper parts for the 
conversion and it listed out somewhere around $350 for all the parts. In your 
case, you would have to add a compressor and labor.

Find a local A/C shop and ask them what they think.
-- 

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley 
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30 
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6


Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:

> You think the cost of the R-12 is worth it?  It will cost a bundle, no?
> 
> I figured I could get a conversion kit with new rings, the R134a, and the
> fittings and be somewhat happy.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Steve Tatro 
> Red/Black '93 with 170k miles 
> Cincinnati, Ohio 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com] 
> Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:48 PM
> To: stevetatro@att.net; Steve Tatro
> Cc: 'SHOTimes'
> Subject: Re: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!
> 
> 
> You already mentioned less efficient. It is WAY less efficient. Also, there
> are 
> official Ford kits out there to convert to R134a. Don't just go to Autozone
> and 
> get their $19.95 kit.
> 
> If it is just your compressor that is toast, redo it with R12.
> -- 
> 
> Paul L Fisher
> '93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
> - K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley
> 
> 190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus 
> Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30
> 
> oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.
> 
> SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
> Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
> Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm
> 
> Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6
> 
> 
> Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:
> 
> > Okay, here's my plan.
> > 
> > Since my SHO is officially an old piece of garbage, and it's trade-in 
> > value (based on KBB, Edmunds, etc.) is now under $1000, I want to fix 
> > my a/c compressor as cheaply as possible.
> > 
> > So, I'm going to have the old R-12 evacuated, remove/replace the 
> > compressor and clutch, convert the fittings to the new R-134a style, 
> > and refill the system.
> > 
> > Can anybody give me a reason NOT to do this?  I know the system can't 
> > be as efficient, but I'm not about to dump $1500 into it.  Sorry if 
> > you don't like me now ;^)
> > 
> > Is there any possible damage this can cause?  I have friend who's 
> > taking hands-on car shop classes, and when they needed to replace the 
> > compressor on an old S-10, this is exactly what they did.  I'm not 
> > saying it's the best way, but will it work and not cause any further 
> > damage?
> > 
> > Thanks as always,
> > 
> > Steve Tatro
> > Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> > Cincinnati, Ohio
> > 
> > P.S.  PFish, does your air work?  If so, it may be cost-effective for 
> > me to just buy your car.  I'd probably forget which one is which 
> > though ;^) _______________________________________________
> > Shotimes mailing list
> > Shotimes@autox.team.net http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
> > 
> 
> 
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