[Shotimes] More A/C questions!

Wed, 3 Sep 2003 16:36:06 -0400

The old oil will not all be there due to the leak, and additionally the
R-134a will not carry the old oil.  This is why it has to be replaced.
Flushing the components that are not replaced will remove the oil.  You
could pay a shop $40-60 to flush your condenser, evaporator core, and
compressor manifold.  Or you could get out the mineral spirits, remove your
condenser (what a PITA), and use that to flush LOL.  I recommend not doing
that.  The shop has special equipment to do flushing with, and special flush
material, but AC techs support the mineral spirits method too.

You fill the compressor (or sometimes they come pre-filled with oil).  If it
has PAG, you will have to remove the PAG and fill it with POE.  PAG is very
intolerant of mineral oil (r-12 oil).  PAG is used in NEW R-134a systems,
but in my opinion it sucks as a refrigerant oil because of its moisture
absorbtion.  The POE is okay with a little bit being left in the system.  Or
you could use PolyAlpha+ oil (AC source sells this polyalphaolefin oil,
which is compatable with all old oils, and doesn't retain moisture!).

While you're replacing the o-rings, I highly suggest replacing the springs
too.  For a few bucks, you won't have one go bad and a line blow apart while
you're running the AC.  Pressures in some parts of the system can get pretty
high.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Tatro" <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>
To: "'Ron Porter'" <ronporter@prodigy.net>; "'Chris "Zap"'"
<zap@columbus.rr.com>
Cc: "'SHOTimes'" <shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 4:24 PM
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!

Yeah, but then every time a little leaks out and I take it to the shop to
get it topped off, it's $50.

The R134a is so cheap, I figured it might be worth a shot.  For $40 I can
get enough R134a, the green neoprene rings, the proper fittings, and be
done.

Here's the real question.  I understand that the R12 oil isn't compatible
with the R134a.  The best way to get the old oil out is to let the a/c run
for awhile and then vacuum everything, right?  I can't run the a/c for any
amount of time, so I'm not sure how to get the old oil out.  If I were to
replace the compressor, fill the system with the R134a, run the system for
awhile, and immediately evacuate everything (hopefully including the oil),
couldn't I then put in brand new R134a and oil?

So many questions.  So little time ;^)

Thanks again everybody for the help.  Keep it coming!

Steve Tatro
Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
Cincinnati, Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ron Porter
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 4:11 PM
To: stevetatro@att.net; 'Paul L Fisher'
Cc: 'SHOTimes'
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!

Just get the R12, it isn't THAT bad.....maybe $100 max for a total fill.

Ron Porter

-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Tatro
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 3:29 PM
To: 'Paul L Fisher'
Cc: 'SHOTimes'
Subject: RE: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!

You think the cost of the R-12 is worth it?  It will cost a bundle, no?

I figured I could get a conversion kit with new rings, the R134a, and the
fittings and be somewhat happy.

Thanks,

Steve Tatro
Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
Cincinnati, Ohio

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul L Fisher [mailto:sho@paul-fisher.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2003 2:48 PM
To: stevetatro@att.net; Steve Tatro
Cc: 'SHOTimes'
Subject: Re: [Shotimes] More A/C questions!

You already mentioned less efficient. It is WAY less efficient. Also, there
are
official Ford kits out there to convert to R134a. Don't just go to Autozone
and
get their $19.95 kit.

If it is just your compressor that is toast, redo it with R12.
-- 

Paul L Fisher
'93 Ford Taurus SHO Crimson Clearcoat ATX 177K Build date 11/18/1992
- K&N Panel filter, Tokico Struts, Eibach Springs, Dynomax cat-back, Holley
190lph fuel pump, FPS rebuilt ATX, 26mm rear sway bar, Performance-Plus
Stainless Steel Y-pipe, Delrin sub-frame bushings, Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30
oil, Amsoil Synthetic ATF.

SHO Club member http://www.shoclub.com/
Check out my web site http://www.paul-fisher.com/
Amsoil dealer http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil.htm

Get $5 free from Paypal! https://www.paypal.com/refer/pal=P3XEFFBFUFKN6

Quoting Steve Tatro <stevetatro_shotimes@att.net>:

> Okay, here's my plan.
>
> Since my SHO is officially an old piece of garbage, and it's trade-in
> value (based on KBB, Edmunds, etc.) is now under $1000, I want to fix
> my a/c compressor as cheaply as possible.
>
> So, I'm going to have the old R-12 evacuated, remove/replace the
> compressor and clutch, convert the fittings to the new R-134a style,
> and refill the system.
>
> Can anybody give me a reason NOT to do this?  I know the system can't
> be as efficient, but I'm not about to dump $1500 into it.  Sorry if
> you don't like me now ;^)
>
> Is there any possible damage this can cause?  I have friend who's
> taking hands-on car shop classes, and when they needed to replace the
> compressor on an old S-10, this is exactly what they did.  I'm not
> saying it's the best way, but will it work and not cause any further
> damage?
>
> Thanks as always,
>
> Steve Tatro
> Red/Black '93 with 170k miles
> Cincinnati, Ohio
>
> P.S.  PFish, does your air work?  If so, it may be cost-effective for
> me to just buy your car.  I'd probably forget which one is which
> though ;^) _______________________________________________
> Shotimes mailing list
> Shotimes@autox.team.net http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo/shotimes
>

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