[SHOtimes] heater core and helms manual

[Leigh Smith]

Be forewarned!!
The heater core replacement is a bear of a job.
Some say Ford jacked up the heater core on a stand and then built a Taurus
around it.... (a joke ... but it rings all too true)
Flat rate book says $80 part and 8 hours ($500) labor...should give you some
idea.

I've done it a few times (3-4) at home in the garage.
It is a full 2-1/2 day weekend job.
Slow but only hand tools required.
The entire dash needs to come out, well 1-2 feet loose anyway.
Half the underhood wiring harness must be loosened to allow that.
The steering column gets dropped, the console removed, and some remove the
front seats. I didn't, but I did poke a hole in the leather once, as the
dash has a sharp bracket edge.
Once you can physically get your body behind the right side of the loose
dash, you can remove the A/C & heater core black plastic air box.
Only 4-6 screws, but you must also bleed the A/C.
Just make sure the sucker is leaking first!!!!! Far easier to tighten the
clamps good, or even use sealant on them. DO NOT twist the heater core
outlet pipes very hard, they aren't soldered in very well, and I broke one
rather easily, causing me to do the  job TWICE. The FORD heater core looked
slightly more substantial in this area than the aftermarket one.
If you do go in there, you may as well change the A/C evaporator too.
And carefully check or replace the blend door motor.
I did each part separate *#@! times.......
No book really needed other than to see where the screws are located that
you need to remove.
There are both copper and aluminum cores available from Ford, my stock one
was aluminum and it should give you less electrochemical corrosion issues.
The stock system has almost no copper for a reason. The aluminum parts
(including the heads, but the core is much thinner) act as a sacrificial
anode compared to the iron or copper. At least the copper core won't
corrode, but adding copper to the system will increase the electrochemical
corrosion potential against the aluminum cylinder heads.  If you go copper,
just keep the antifreeze fresh.Using distilled water also helps lower this
issue.

In the 'ole days, the aluminum manifolds would rot off an iron V-8 at the
thermostat housing in short order if you ran just plain water.

Lee


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Weinrich" <stevwein@swbell.net>
To: "David Niemiec" <chooey_chomp@hotmail.com>; <Shotimes@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: [SHOtimes] heater core and helms manual


> There is still a pretty good chance that the problem is just the
hose-to-core connection.  An inspection mirror and a flashlight are the
correct tools to use to find out.
>
> If you need it, there is a complete set of heater core replacement
instructions at Dennis Wolfe's site.  I have the address at home and can
pass it on later this weekend if you actually need it.
>
> Steve W
>
>
> Hey all,
>
> The '93 I sold has aparrently developed a leak on the firewall side again.
> Last summer, one of my heater hoses blew and I replaced both of the upper
> hoses. On the drive back home, while testing the A/C, steam shot through
the
> defrost and vents and I thought the heater core had gone south. While
having
> the car checked out, we took a good look at the hose clamps and saw
coolant
> leaking from the connection---tightened the clamps down real good and
> problem solved. The car's coolant was also flushed.
>
> The current owner (who is a pretty nice guy) and I chat occasionally and
he
> tells me that he had the car pressure tested and it is leaking down the
> firewall side and soaking the insulation. I'd like to help him out a
little
> because I thought this problem had been resolved---maybe even (gulp) help
> him change the heater core. So, I'm looking for a Helms manual for a '93,
> maybe even an EVTM as well.
>
> Also, if there are any other culprits that would cause the firewall and
> insulation to become soaked with coolant, I would love to know about them.
> The interior and carpeting is still dry as I understand it.
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
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