[Shotimes] My welding experience...

Kevin & Cheryl Airth clubairth@peoplepc.com
Tue, 13 Apr 2004 22:01:45 -0500


Michael:
 I use a Snap-On YA205A. It's about 15 years old and Century makes them for
Snap-On. 205 Amps and 220 V. I got it used for $500, including the bottle
with shielding gas! I think it was a steal. The original owner paid $1700.
It's WAY better than I will ever be! I recommend getting a welder locally
because of the shipping. But use Ebay for pricing info. Do you know how to
search for completed items? This is the best way to see what something is
going for.
 Miller is considered the best by the welders I know. They use them in
shipyards here in town. Especially if you plan on welding any Aluminum. They
bring a premium price even used. The 175 is fine machine and I consider it
the top of the line, buy it! I just could not afford or find one cheap
enough!

 But I have learned some things that will help.
I prefer gas shielded welding only. It gives a superior weld. No or almost
no slag. Now with that said the flux core can do a fine job and is more
flexible about welding conditions. With the gas, windy conditions are almost
impossible to handle. That's why they build wind walls on pipeline jobs, so
the shielding gas is not blown away.
 Make SURE your metal is clean you are welding. Treat it just like paint job
preparation. Wire brush or sand blast.
ALWAYS make a fresh diagonal cut on your wire to the correct length before
striking a arc. The fine point is really key to starting a stable arc.
My machine has large knobs to adjust wire speed and amperage continuously.
Switches are OK but without the variable control it makes it harder to set
the power and speed correctly. You need to "tune" the welder for your metal
thickness. You can cheat this somewhat by varying your wire speed but only a
limited amount. Use some scrap the same thickness as what your trying to
weld. Then try different amp. and speed settings. The welding book you get
with your welder should give some recommendations to get you in the ball
park.
Buy the small spools of wire. Mig welding wire is copper plated steel. The
longer you have a spool the more corrosion builds on the wire. Again this
WILL degrade your weld and it's NOT obvious. Remember that you must have a
complete circuit for electric welding to work so corrosion in any part of
the circuit will mess up things. Everyone wants a big spool because it's
cheaper but I ONLY use the small 2 lb. spools. Don't buy a lot of wire and
keep what you have in a plastic big. Most wire now comes in sealed plastic.
Leave it that way until you are ready to use it. I run the small .024" wire
unless things get heavy. Say 3/8" thickness and above.
 The auto-darkening helmets are fantastic!! I prefer and have a Jackson
because it's American made but Speedglass makes some great helmets too. They
have a really nice feature. Side lenses for a much larger viewing field. The
pricing on these helmets is directly related to the size of the lens so try
not to get the cheapest ones because it tough to use the small window. I got
a NICE used Jackson helmet for about $110 on Ebay. It sells for about
$290-$350 new. Use it just once and I guarantee you will NEVER go back!
And of course the only really good advice.
Practice,Practice,Practice,Practice, well you get the idea!

 My mig does a great job on exhaust pipe with the small .024" wire.

Remember to get a 41/2" right angle grinder too. Then all your welds will
look dressed. That's how I practice. If the weld does not look good I grind
it out and start again! Makes even the amateur look good! Plus the wire
wheel does a good job prepping the weld area.

Here is a list of things I ended up needing after welding for a while.
Welding magnets. These have angles built in so you can get 90.60.30 degree
corners. Get a couple at least. It's hard to hold your pieces together in
the right way sometimes.
Welding clamps. Vise-grip style with different jaws. Deep throat. sheet
metal, ect.
Welding cape or jacket to keep you from getting too many burn scars on your
arms!
Welding blanket to prevent damage to your surroundings. Just wait to you
weld inside a car and try to protect the interior.
Magnetic ground clamp. Makes it a breeze to get a good ground. Has a pin
sticking up for your welders ground clamp.

Couple of welding secrets.
To fill holes in sheet metal without burning thru and just making them
bigger. Use copper back up plates. The weld will not stick to the copper.
Real welding C-clamps have the screw copper plated for the same reason. But
very expensive!

.



> Just wanna share my welding experience with you guys, and hear your
stories and advice.
>
> I started welding my own exhaust together a few months ago. Though, I'm
not really getting anywhere, and I'm beginning to think that one reason is
the  el-cheapo welder I'm using - the little BernzOmatic home welder.  I
just can't make good welds with it, and I constantly fight oxidation of the
metals created by the welder itself.  It simply makes a mess of the whole
job. I'm sure I'm to blame too.  However, the flame is too small (narrow)
and unstable, and by the time you're somewhat comfortable with the flame,
you run out of oxygen. Additionally, the Mapp gas creates these little black
flakes that fly around in the garage and makes a mess of everything.
>
> So I wanna step up to better welding equipment.  Does any of you have
experience with arc welders, such as the Millermatic 175 MIG welder?
>
> What do you use for splicing exhaust pipes together?
>
> Michael Olsen
> 94MTX,green,BOS+