[Shotimes] vibration: what is wrong?

[Carl Prochilo]

To me, this is one of the toughest problems to diagnose and cure.  But in
the end it is finding the right combination of things to replace to get it
right.

You didn't mention LCAs in your note.  Tough to know they are truly bad
when they are on their way out.

I know it's cold where you live and I'm not suggesting you run outside and
do this.  But you may find that you have to peel the onion several times
before you get to the core.  So far you've done 2 things.  I've not
experienced the problem with increased vibration as a function of turning
the steering, but George may be right about the wheel bearings.
-- 
Cheers,
Carl Prochilo
92 Ultra Red Crimson

On Wed, December 22, 2004 12:11 am, Ian Fisher said:
> I have a vibration that I can't pin down.
>
> Symptom:
> Vibraton/rubbing felt in steering wheel and front end
> of car while moving. Moving the wheel left or right
> changes the pitch and sound (increases, decreases).
> Letting go of the wheel and letting the car drift
> usually alleviates most of the problem. Steering wheel
> is no longer centered when driving car straight.
> Letting go of the wheel causes car to drift slightly
> to the right.
>
> History:
> Problem was really bad until last week or so when I
> realized that the driver's rear SF bolt was not
> torqued tightly and the subframe was lifting up and
> down. I torqued the bolt (100 ft/lbs -Al bushings) and
> things were better but not perfect. A few days later,
> I tore into the car again and found that the driver's
> side CV joint had failed and sprayed grease all over
> the trans case. I replaced the halfshaft and torqued
> the (new) end nut to 190 ft/lbs (spec is 180-200)
>
> Wheel bearings look fine.
> Tie rod ends look fine.
> Steering rack (reman Ford) + inner tie rods are only
> about 2 years old.
>
> I didn't find significant play in either front wheel
> with the car jacked up that would indicate a wheel
> bearing or tie rod issue.
>
> One thought did occur to me tonight that I need to
> check; the tension strut rods. The last shop that
> aligned the car shimmed the tension strut rod to
> adjust caster. They used metal shims behind the rear
> subframe to strut rod bushing. I should check the
> front nut on the strut rod to ensure that it is still
> torqued tightly but somehow I doubt this is my
> problem.
>
> Other notables: I have wilwood brakes. I had a similar
> issue once when the TCE braided line was rubbing on
> the inside of the rim. I updated the line with TCE's
> newer shorter lines and haven't had a problem since.
> Wilwood calipers seem to be operating find (sometimes
> a piston can seize causing problems).
>
> Any ideas?
>
> All I want for Christmas is a vibrationless SHO and my
> 3.2 installed by Santa Claus (he's used to the cold)
>
> Thanks
> Ian
>
>
>
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