[Shotimes] Operating on the strut tower

[Mike.Wojton@us.o-i.com]

Well, I was just thinking about this, and if a guy was worried about using
washers, he could get the spacers (or make them) and cut them into three
pieces, then slot the holes on the inside edge, and then slip them into 
place.
You'd only have to lower the struts enought to slip them in.   Scribing 
around
the nuts would let you position the strut back where it
was so as not to mess up the alignment.


Mike Wojton
Toledo, Ohio

-'95 White MTX
   '96 Brake Upgrade

"Avoid the clap." - Jimmy Dugan




shotimes-admin@autox.team.net wrote on 01/10/2004 10:02:40 AM:

> On Thu, 8 Jan 2004 09:48:42 -0500 (Eastern Standard Time), Carl Prochilo 
wrote:
> 
> >About the fender washers, I'm trying to picture how this would work. 
Are
> >you saying that you simply drop the strut tower and apply the washer
> >where, on top of the existing plate or between the plate and the 
bearing? 
> >I need to reference a good schematic of how this is assembled because I
> >can't really see that well into the tower itself.
> 
> That's correct.  The washer goes on top of everything, between the top 
of the mount
> and the bottom of the strut tower.  John W. mentions cracking.  I 
suppose that is
> possible, but out here, we don't have rampant rust, and our car bodies 
don't weaken
> over time while they are being street driven.  You can get fender 
washers that are
> an inch or more in diameter, and they would spread the load out enough 
that the
> cracking risk is minimal.  Lowrider has the spacers, so I can't brag 
about it's
> durability, but several other cars have washers, and they have been no 
problem, so
> far. 
> 
> I'd use (and do use) fender washers.  If there are cracks later, I'd 
weld them and
> keep using washers.  If the camber plates haven't been moved, I'd say 
cracks are a
> very remote possibility.
> 
> YMMV
> 
> George
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