[Shotimes] power door lock problem

[DAVID PILLSBURY]

All the actuators work. They are riding up and down everytime I push the button 3 doors have no rivets in them gone MIA not sure what happened to them but they are missing. So I think I'll pull the panels make sure they work and put new rivets in. I happen to have a box full of them and the gun to install them with.A friend liberated the rivets and gun from GM. 
Dave

George Fourchy <krazgeo@jps.net> wrote:
On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 21:31:22 -0800 (PST), DAVID PILLSBURY wrote:

>Any suggestions before I tear the doors apart? 

In my experience they either work or they don't. I have changed several front door
actuators. They are much easier than the rear ones. I removed one rear door
actuator at a wrecking yard, just to have a spare, and it is a royal pain to get
out. You have to basically remove the entire window and its mechanism to get to the
rear actuator, due to its mounting location next to the fender cutout in the door,
underneath all the door latch linkage and window tracks.

New actuators are about 95 bucks. Used ones are 15 bucks where I go.

I think I sent instructions for the front actuators to the Shotimes FAQ. Basically,
you remove the panel, have the window in the up position, remove the rear horizontal
track the window riser slides in, remove the lower rear window track, and then you
can access the actuator. The rivet that holds its bracket to the door must be
drilled out, then the actuator is swung up, horizontal with the ground, and you
unhook it from the lock mechanism. Unplug it, and remove it. 

Be sure and test any electrical parts you get from a wrecking yard at the time you
remove them from the car. I have an 18 volt portable drill...the battery is perfect
for testing things. Then you don't need a return policy, which makes parts
definitely cheaper. (I don't test sensors with 18 volts!!)

Installation is almost as easy...you have to use a bolt and nut where the rivet was.
They are large rivets, and the average hardware store doesn't have a rivet gun that
size. Also, it is easier to get to the next time. The lower window track snaps
into the upper track just under the door sill, and the bolt or nut that holds it to
the door edge needs to be left loose until everything else is done, then is
tightened after the window goes up and down a couple of times to let it align itself
with the glass. This is often the cause of sluggish windows...the lower track is
out of alignment.

Ask if you have any more questions....

George
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