[Shotimes] 3.2 OverBore Questions

[Ian Fisher]

My 3.2  came out of my 93 ATX parts car that I spent
$700 on. The car paid for itself so essentially the
engine was free. I am using the rods and pistons from
that motor but not the crank or block (it spun a
bearing).

The crank is coming out a of 90 3.0 that I paid about
$75 for at a U pull it junkyard. The sway bars alone
from that car paid for the motor. Once again, $0.

I think that I traded a 95 steering wheel from my car
for my friend's 95 3.0 block. Price: $0- (sort of)

rings-about $100
cleveite rod and main bearings-$100?
lower end gaskets from Josh-$100?

machine work to get the lower end balanced with the 90
crank, 93 rods + pistons, new wrist pins, check the
rods for cracks and bends, polish whatever needs to be
polished, clean, bore and hone the block, re-ring the
pistons, install clevite bearings, gaskets...(I
cleaned up 90% of the pistons with a jug of degreaser
and a plastic trash can for them to soak in. The
skirts still need to be cleaned up though.)
I'm looking at between $500-$700 in shop work alone..

I am going to one of 2 NAPA's here. I still haven't
decided which one but I am leaning towards the one
that will do all of the assembly for me as I have
heard that they are quite good.

Oh-plus I still have the upper end to do once the
bottom end is complete. I have new OEM valve springs,
upper gasket set and valve seals. Will need shims,
cams (probably midwestSHO) and bronze valve guides.

So I guess it does add up..I forgot about the little
things like gaskets, seals, bearings, rings and how
much they cost me. Funny how they end up being more
than the major engine parts.

Ian "the longest 3.2 project that ever existed" Fisher


--- Mark Nunnally <marknunnally@JoiMail.com> wrote:
> > Is it possible to overbore to 3.3 and keep stock
> 3.2 pistons?
> > Maybe oversized rings?
> 
> No.  A 3.3L would be a 93.5mm bore, or 1.5mm over
> 92.  Which is a good bit
> to take off an 89 3.0L block...
> 
> > I was thinking of a budget job here....
> 
> there is no such thing :)
> 
> > >From what i understand i will keep only the
> essential block plus pistons
> and
> > crank and then replace the rest with my 3.0
> parts.....is this true?
> 
> best to start with a 93-95 3.2L or 3.0L block, and
> not an early 89-92 block.
> Also, those a lot smarter than me noted to me awhile
> back that most OEM's
> with a 92mm slug use a 22mm pin (like the 3.2L's
> have) and not the 21mm pin
> that's on the stock 89mm bore of your 3.0L.  Ie
> sticking a 21mm pin on a
> 92mm slug wouldn't be ideal.  Also note the 3.2L
> rods are a bit more beefier
> 
> > Should i keep anything outside of this?
> > Bottom line question.....what parts do i keep from
> the 3.2 since it seems
> > that this list would be smaller?
> 
> Best bet is to find a good OEM factory 3.2L
> shortblock core with a good
> rotating assembly.  That's the budget route.
> 
> And if you want to "build" a 3.2L, still best
> (easiest) to start with a
> 3.2L.  Have the block cleaned, bored to whatever
> oversize piston you have,
> use the new pins that come with the pistons, re-use
> the 3.2L rods, and have
> the whole assembly rebalanced.  With that, figure
> $2k for the pistons,
> gaskets, and machine work.
> 
> mark
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> 



	
		
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