[Shotimes] 134a Conversions

[Paul L Fisher]

Because you have to change parts on an R-12 system to use R-134. Also, R-134
is less efficient than R-12.


Paul L Fisher

1999 Ford Taurus SHO TR 66K - Kirk'ed 2/29/04.

 - Amsoil Series 2000 0W-30
 - Amsoil TS-124 Oiled Foam air filter

Visit my website: http://www.paul-fisher.com
SHOClub Member: http://www.shoclub.com
Amsoil dealer: http://www.paul-fisher.com/oil


-----Original Message-----
From: shotimes-admin@autox.team.net [mailto:shotimes-admin@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Strobel
Sent: Friday, July 02, 2004 12:58 PM
To: Times List SHO
Subject: [Shotimes] 134a Conversions

134a is so cheap (like $3.99 a 12 oz can a Walmart)
and anyone can buy it why you would want to use
anything else is beyond me.  Most other substitutes
are based on butane or propane and do not perform as
well as 134a.  I have done many a conversion and get
good performance out of 134a.  The old wives tale of
replacing all the old o-rings, hoses, condensor,
making sure to get all the old oil out just isn't true
anymore as we have gained knowledge through the years.
 If your R-12 system is operating then a conversion to
134a is install 2 new 134a port adapters.  NAPA sells
really nice brass ones that last and seal better. 
Evac all of the old R-12.  Pull 30 inches of vacuum on
the system for a minimum of 20-30 minutes. Add 6 oz of
PAG oil.  Charge with R-134a at 80% of the R-12
charge.  Start car enjoy the cold air.  If you want to
improve the system performance then install a new
orifice tube and blow out the evaporator and condensor
with compressed air by disconnecting the lines.  Due
this after evacing the 
R-12 but before pulling the vacuum.  I've done a  lot
of systems and I get mid 40 temps out of the vent just
by filling with 134a and in my 92 I get mid 30s out of
the vent with a new orifice and blowing out the evap &
condensor.  Just evacing, pulling vacuum, and charging
takes less than hour and the A/C machine does the
whole thing while the tech only stops by to change
from evac to vacuum to charge.  The whole deal should
be less than $100 at a shop.  If you have access to a
good vacuum pump you can do the whole thing in your
driveway.  The key is pulling the vacuum for 20-30 min
as this get rid of all the performance robbing
moisture in the system.  Buy an oil charge and enough
12 oz cans to make up 80% of the original R-12 charge
plus a little extra and charge until it wo'nt get any
colder coming out the vents.  Do all charging from the
low side which is the port closest to the evaporator
(part up under the dash) the high side is usually the
smaller diameter line of the two.  That's all there is
to it.           

=====
Bill Strobel
Independent Towing
Fayetteville NC


		
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