[Shotimes] Is engine OK? was: SHO cranking but not starting

George Fourchy krazgeo@jps.net
Tue, 16 Mar 2004 11:38:56 -0800


On Tue, 16 Mar 2004 12:45:12 -0500, Koper Jim wrote:

> Helms does not specify, and
>perhaps that is where the problem started. I had a good amount of guidance
>(by phone and e-mail!) with George Fourchy that summer, so I figured I did
>it correctly. Maybe not! Perhaps the slack started IF I used the wrong white
>mark....

Hi Jim...

It's been a while since I've been inside an engine, but as I recall the different
belt markings are for MTX and ATX.  The most important thing is that the two marks
on top line up with the marks on the cam sprockets, when they were at TDC, and the
other mark was at the 5 o'clock position on the crank sprocket.  As long as the
crankshaft was on TDC and the two top marks were lined up, the belt should have been
set correctly.  If it started and ran with good power after you put it together,
then the belt went on right.  My experiences with my engine and talking to others
say that the timing belt will not stretch enough that you will notice it.

If you torqued the crank bolt to 115 pounds, that should have been enough.  The only
time that might not work is if the damper itself has been hit with a hammer enough
to bugger up/mushroom the inside of the center hub, so that it will not press onto
the crank snout.  A friend here had that problem....his damper would not go on all
the way because it had been hit HARD by someone else who had 'tried' to do a 60K.  I
ruined a puller getting it off his crank, and then had to file down the crank so
that a good damper would go on.  He had started to have crank cancer.  You should
not hit the damper with a metal hammer, but use a piece of wood as a spacer and
shock absorber.  You can tap the wood, listening to the sound of the crank ringing
when you hit it...the sound will change and become more distinct, like a bell, when
the damper seats on the crank sprocket/guide washer.  When that happens, it is on
all the way.

While you have the top cover off the cam sprockets, rotate the engine back and forth
and see if there is hesitation at the cam sprockets.  This is the test for crank
cancer.  You only have to rotate it a few degrees either way to see.  There should
be NO hesitation when you move the crank either way.  If there is, you have cancer.

George