[Shotimes] Re: Rear Brake Caliper Slide Pins

[Paul Nimz]

I've always had problems with the rear pins.  So far I just tear the brakes
down once a year and clean and regrease the pins.  This last time I used
some Kopper Kote which is similar to NeverSieze.  From my experience Kopper
Kote once it's on something is extremely difficult to remove.  Hopefully it
will hold up.

Why F*** did not use stainless steel for the pins I don't know.  Took my
son's 96 Audi brakes apart a couple of weeks ago and they had stainless.  No
corrosion or stickiness at all in 8 years on the original brakes.  Had neat
electric sensors built into the pad too.

Paul Nimz
'97 TR
'93 EG mtx


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Carl Prochilo" <gr8sho@prochilo.myserver.org>
To: <shotimes@autox.team.net>; <techsho@topica.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 2004 4:49 PM
Subject: [Shotimes] Re: Rear Brake Caliper Slide Pins


> .
> Finished the job.
>
> I really appreciate these lists.  I remember reading that loosening
> the bleeder valve when turning the caliber piston (clockwise if
> you're taking notes) makes the job easier.  Oh so true.  Second, to
> get the piston to retract, I used the tool with the prongs on a 3/8"
> ratchet, but that alone isn't enough because you need a lot of
> leverage against a fixed position (assuming you don't have the
> proper Rotunda tool).  I remounted the bracket and the caliber with
> the rotor off.  Then used a C-clamp to keep the caliper from moving.
>  Finally, my garage is tight quarters, so I was able to use another
> car as leverage to push up against and turn the piston.
>
> Finally, I observed that both brackets had the frontmost pins
> frozen.  The boots were fine yet the pin was rusted solid.  Do most
> people see this problem?  Judging from the pads and the mileage on
> the car, the rear brakes were original.
> -- 
> Cheers,
> Carl Prochilo
> 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
>
> Carl Prochilo said:
> > Several years ago I did the rear brakes on my 92 and needed to
> > replace a few torn rubber boots that protect the slide pins in the
> > caliper bracket.  At that time Ford readily had kits on hand that
> > included new pins and boots.
> >
> > When I called the big Ford parts wholesaler this time I found out
> > that the kit wasn't stocked but can still be ordered.  Since I was
> > already in the middle of doing the brakes on the 95, I needed
> > something quick.  I called AutoZone and they told me they sold a
> > different kit that contained 4 rubber boots and brake pad springs.
> > The kit costs $10.  This was really fortuitous for me.
> >
> > The right rear caliper had one pin completely frozen.  Using PB
> > Blaster and a good set of pliers I was able to finally get the pin
> > out, coated in rust.  I soaked the bracket in more PBB and was able
> > to get the cavity cleaned out and the pin itself.  Loaded up the pin
> > with some silicone based lubricant.  I now have the bracket ready to
> > be installed.  Next step is to retract the caliper piston (looks to
> > be a PITA again) and reassemble.  Also picked up a set of PFCM pads.
> >
> > The interesting thing about this whole situation is that with the
> > caliper itself basically inoperative on the one side, the pads were
> > practically unused.  Also, you couldn't even tell the car was
> > working with only 3 of the 4 brakes stopping the car.  The left side
> > however was a different matter and those pads were toast.  I had the
> > rotors turned and they look fine.  After this job is done, I plan to
> > install the plugs in the bias block.
> >
> > I still like the 92 brakes with the vented rotors over the 95 setup.
> > --
> > Cheers,
> > Carl Prochilo
> > 1992 Ultra Red Crimson
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